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Hi all,
Hoping someone can help me out with diagnosing my transmission issues with my 2010 ford focus S. It has the 2.0 and automatic transmission. The car runs fine for about 5 to 10 minutes and then all of a sudden the rpms shoot up and the car starts to shift harder than normal through all gears and does not want to go into overdrive. When it is cold it operates and shifts normally then it just spaces out? I checked the codes and the only thing that came up was a engine running lean code. I took it to the ford dealer and they said the lean code was caused by a faulty purge valve which they want $300 to fix. They said that it may fix the transmission issue but they aren't sure (doesn't sound right to me but figured I would describe it). Then they said I should get a transmission flush which would cost $239 and if that didn't fix it then it was probably a solenoid inside of the transmission which would cost $900 to fix. It sounds like a lot of guessing to me. If anybody can provide any insight I would appreciate it. Thanks!
 

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Those guesses beyond the purge valve sound unfounded (and quite high in price).

Fluid change IS a maint. item on those at every 30k miles, but that price seems high for the service. Can't be sure as the description does not explain HOW they do it, pan off change could be that high but a "flush" through the cooler lines would likely be cheaper.

The lean code should be addressed, if only to keep the engine running as that can potentially do severe damage. It can also cause operational problems of the engine that you're only seeing as they affect RPM & shifting.

There SHOULD be compensation for the RPM by the electronic throttle body, so there's another possible problem.

Lot of guessing here as well, it can be hard to tell from a few symptoms as described between the chicken & the egg - is the trans "slipping" or is the engine revving when it shouldn't?

Changing when it warms up tends to point to the engine, as it changes operation modes as it warms up.

Look up the purge valve location/cost for your model. IDK for sure offhand the location on yours and I never guess current prices (grin).
 

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You can have your transmission fluid changed outside of the dealer network, but I would definitely start at having them fix the purge valve IF that is indeed faulty. If the purge valve is doing more or less than what is expected, there should be a code specific to the purge valve, not simply a lean condition code.

You should also check sensors like MAF and O2 as any fault on these sensors can cause a lean condition.
 

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Cold ATX runs fine then when it gets hot ATX goes to crap. Classic signs of a line pressure issue from wear. Could be a hydraulic leak somewhere. No mileage given I see. No mention of what fluid looks like or even if it's full either.

Can't fix anything that way.......................

LOL..............fixing the purge will not touch the ATX shifting issues.........if that indeed is what they are.
 

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Hi all,
Hoping someone can help me out with diagnosing my transmission issues with my 2010 ford focus S. It has the 2.0 and automatic transmission. The car runs fine for about 5 to 10 minutes and then all of a sudden the rpms shoot up and the car starts to shift harder than normal through all gears and does not want to go into overdrive. When it is cold it operates and shifts normally then it just spaces out? I checked the codes and the only thing that came up was a engine running lean code. I took it to the ford dealer and they said the lean code was caused by a faulty purge valve which they want $300 to fix. They said that it may fix the transmission issue but they aren't sure (doesn't sound right to me but figured I would describe it). Then they said I should get a transmission flush which would cost $239 and if that didn't fix it then it was probably a solenoid inside of the transmission which would cost $900 to fix. It sounds like a lot of guessing to me. If anybody can provide any insight I would appreciate it. Thanks!
i have a 2010 ford focus with same engine mine does about the same when rpms shoot up if i let off gas it will go into gear ( i know never to force) and trainny fluid good took mine to trans shop wanted 2500.00 for trans i took it home oreilly did a codes check said solanoid c bad i went and got one there easy to replace do it yourself but mine was replaced still says c is bad iam sure its not so if you find a fix i would love to know thank you
 

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The PCM pops codes for solenoids because that is the only way they can see anything wrong in trans. Meaning ANYTHING is terms of worn mechanical parts that can imitate the solenoid will make the exact same code even if the solenoid is new. That can be a lot of things wrong. Why solenoids only fix things with a 50/50 chance.

The C solenoid works to get OD, meaning you likely have something wrong with 2/4 band that makes 4th work. You may have trouble with 2nd too.
 
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