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Discussion Starter #1
Is this possible? Ive given up on bieng able to afford toms turbo or a vortech so this is the next best thing other than a jrsc which I dont want to do. Anyway is this possible? and if so how high of a compression and what cams would I need to run? Any help is appreciated.
 

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AKA Toyotech
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its been done before.

to do it...

36lb injectors
70mm maf
race header
flex pipe
cat-back
intake
FC manifold
FC 70mm tb
ford racing head with additional porting, shave it some
springs retainers
chip
stage 3/4 or 4 cams

of course you would need some tranny mods too.

....and a WHOLE LOTTA REVS :)

oh yea...this car won't be too happy for traffic...or stopping...lol

but that should garuntee you damn close to that point
 

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Discussion Starter #3
damn....was not expecting it to be that extreme haha. What about a stage 2 cam and an 11:1 cr?
 

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AKA Toyotech
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160's done right
 

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Discussion Starter #5
well ****, looks like I'm saving for a turbo. Thanks for your help kickn.
 

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i think your focusing on the whp rating too much and not the tq, as well as the ET a 170whp or a 160-170s wtq a focus could run
 

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im working toward the 170-180, ill be that far next year.

planning on getting new clutch 24lbs injectors, prom maf, and wither i mill the head for cr or i got all out with new rods and pistons well see. i need to level what i got. i damn well knows by september ill need a new clutch.
 

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y not 30 pounders w/ the head work? an LSD would be wise too
 

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how fast are you tryin to go man? once u get over 160whp u can better ur E.T more with good gearing, LSD, and tires vs more hp. you need to put it down otherwise u'll just be sittin there spinnin tires.

i only want 160hp/160ft lbs like the mcnews car when im done and didnt the run a low 13 or 12 on slicks? thats as fast as ill need to go with brake drums in back :p
 

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You shouldn't focus so much on how much whp you want. Yes I use to do the same. Instead just get the parts you want and keep doing that untill your setteled with your car. I talked to Mcnews over on the jet about my "project" and they gonna help me. Let's me give you a little idea of it. Some of the parts I'm getting.

-FR Head
-Cat stage 2 cams
-Esslinger cam gears
-mill head
-port work
-crower springs and retainers
-head gasket
-head bolts
-cam seals
-setup cams w/ lash caps
-clearance cams in head

That's just some of the part's I'm getting, that's gonna be set up by Mcnews too. For all of that set up and ready to bolt on is gonna be around $2,200.00

So $2,200.00 just for that, PLUS you will also need other parts. If you don't mind spending, do it.
 

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ALL_MOTOR_ZETEC said:
You shouldn't focus so much on how much whp you want. Yes I use to do the same. Instead just get the parts you want and keep doing that untill your setteled with your car. I talked to Mcnews over on the jet about my "project" and they gonna help me. Let's me give you a little idea of it. Some of the parts I'm getting.

-FR Head
-Cat stage 2 cams
-Esslinger cam gears
-mill head
-port work
-crower springs and retainers
-head gasket
-head bolts
-cam seals
-setup cams w/ lash caps
-clearance cams in head

That's just some of the part's I'm getting, that's gonna be set up by Mcnews too. For all of that set up and ready to bolt on is gonna be around $2,200.00

So $2,200.00 just for that, PLUS you will also need other parts. If you don't mind spending, do it.
I hope you are ready for a god awfully loud car. Both kickn and I have heard the mcnews car run and its very loud. We're talking import race car loud. I like the cat cams but not for a daily driver.

There are lots of folks making 160+ whp and 140+ wtq with a much more normal idle and exhaust sound.
 

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The reason the car is so loud it because of the type exhaust. The car lopes but it runs fine on the road. We have the idle at 1000 its not bad. The car weighs 2650 and runs 14.8 1/4 on motor it is going to the strip tonite we will see what it does now.
 

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Yel900rr said:
The reason the car is so loud it because of the type exhaust. The car lopes but it runs fine on the road. We have the idle at 1000 its not bad. The car weighs 2650 and runs 14.8 1/4 on motor it is going to the strip tonite we will see what it does now.
I know it has the 2.5" MBRP and thats why its loud.

I think people are always focusing too much on a specific number.
 

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i bought the 2.25 from mcnews yel900rr have you guys got your new shipment in yet ? its been 2 weeks 2day pm me back
 

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200 can be done on 11ish:1 comp with decent cams, but fuel and timing come into play around that level. That's when things start getting expensive. My new motor will be putting down 200+. As an example, I can build a 160whp car for about 2500 in mods, to go 200 it's gonna cost nearly 3 times that much. dyno numbers are not that important, i'm shooting for 12's this year, that's the key to me. My current setup is (160ish whp 150tq):

Factory head milled .030 to 10.4:1 comp
crower stg II cams
fc 4-2-1 race header
borla yodude 2.25 catback
70mm tb
cai
02 intake mani (suck)


the new motor is:
wrc block
eagle forged rods
je forged pistons 11.5:1 comp
fr head +p&p
crower custom stg 3+ cams
short runner intake mani (my design)
70 mm tb
short ram intake
big tube race header, flex, 2.5 catback
30lb injectors (at least) and maf
crower springs/retainers
balance rotating assembly
udp
chip/flipchip
and various other little things

point is... it takes a LOT more time energy and money to get from 13 to 12's, than it does to get from 17's to 13's.

Best bet is to build a decent street car and make it handle like a dream. if its not fast enough for ya, drop on a safety conscious 75 shot and run mid/low 13's. It's fun all day and still driveable too. My car is a blast now on 75 shot, after the new motor breaks 200whp i'm planning a 150 shot direct port. hehe, moocho scary kinda fun, but it's gonna cost me one way or another.

g
 

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mr.squatch said:
200 can be done on 11ish:1 comp with decent cams, but fuel and timing come into play around that level. That's when things start getting expensive. My new motor will be putting down 200+. As an example, I can build a 160whp car for about 2500 in mods, to go 200 it's gonna cost nearly 3 times that much. dyno numbers are not that important, i'm shooting for 12's this year, that's the key to me. My current setup is (160ish whp 150tq):

Factory head milled .030 to 10.4:1 comp
crower stg II cams
fc 4-2-1 race header
borla yodude 2.25 catback
70mm tb
cai
02 intake mani (suck)


the new motor is:
wrc block
eagle forged rods
je forged pistons 11.5:1 comp
fr head +p&p
crower custom stg 3+ cams
short runner intake mani (my design)
70 mm tb
short ram intake
big tube race header, flex, 2.5 catback
30lb injectors (at least) and maf
crower springs/retainers
balance rotating assembly
udp
chip/flipchip
and various other little things

point is... it takes a LOT more time energy and money to get from 13 to 12's, than it does to get from 17's to 13's.

Best bet is to build a decent street car and make it handle like a dream. if its not fast enough for ya, drop on a safety conscious 75 shot and run mid/low 13's. It's fun all day and still driveable too. My car is a blast now on 75 shot, after the new motor breaks 200whp i'm planning a 150 shot direct port. hehe, moocho scary kinda fun, but it's gonna cost me one way or another.

g
First off do you have a dyno plot for your first list of mods because they are way to vague.

Why do you think you will make 200 whp? A guy on FJ with similar mods made 171 whp and 137 wtq

Your only differences are a different intake, stage 3 over stage 2 crower cams and slightly higher compression.

I am just curious why you think this setup will make 200 whp?
 
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