2009 Intake Manifold Runner Control Valve
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If anyone know about this please post because if it does... I think my new Foci is having a problem with these right now... the other night I was leaving a red light and the car started to act like it was bogging out I pulled over, turned the car off.. waited and then turned it back over and it was fine. Of course it could have been bad gas or something... but to me it seemed like it wasn't getting any air.
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How many miles are on it?
Have you messed with this engine before?
Just a guess on what to look at.
The TB has a main throat with a plate that rortates like an old style carb. It also has this side shoot that has another little throat that goes threw the IAC.
The IAC controlls aditional air to flow threw to hold an idle, speed up or slow down depending on what the load is.
If the IAC gets dirty it can hang up either open or closed and sort of choke the engine. Its like a little plunger that slides up and down.
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From the factory the TB is closed up pretty tight and if the IAC isnt working properly its not getting enough air to hold a steady idle.
What you can do (i think) is when it starts to act funny unplug the IAC see how it acts. Or just remove the 2 bolts and take it out, clean it inspect it and put it back in.
You might also check around for loose vacuum lines.
(im guessing about this) i think when its at an idle it relys on the IAC to control the air for the idle. When you give it gas the TB opens and the IAC closes so thre air is just going threw the TB throat. So then when you let off the TB slams shut and if the IAC isnt working properly and doesnt open back up to control the idle it sort of chokes up.
Have you messed with this engine before?
Just a guess on what to look at.
The TB has a main throat with a plate that rortates like an old style carb. It also has this side shoot that has another little throat that goes threw the IAC.
The IAC controlls aditional air to flow threw to hold an idle, speed up or slow down depending on what the load is.
If the IAC gets dirty it can hang up either open or closed and sort of choke the engine. Its like a little plunger that slides up and down.
From the factory the TB is closed up pretty tight and if the IAC isnt working properly its not getting enough air to hold a steady idle.
What you can do (i think) is when it starts to act funny unplug the IAC see how it acts. Or just remove the 2 bolts and take it out, clean it inspect it and put it back in.
You might also check around for loose vacuum lines.
(im guessing about this) i think when its at an idle it relys on the IAC to control the air for the idle. When you give it gas the TB opens and the IAC closes so thre air is just going threw the TB throat. So then when you let off the TB slams shut and if the IAC isnt working properly and doesnt open back up to control the idle it sort of chokes up.
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Hey man.. thanks... it has 10100K on it right now.. I bought it with 9200... and no I have not messed with it... as much as I would love to mod it.. I do not.. its all under warranty so I do not want to void anything.
The other night I was driving it and when I went to leave a light.. it started to bog out.. like it wasn't getting any air or if the trans was crapping out. I pulled over.. turned it off.. sat for a little bit... turned it over.. and it took right off. It hasn't done it again since.
The car gets good mileage. I am averaging about 27-28mpg all city, 33-34mpg between work and home and during a 400 mile trip back and forth all highway I got about 35-36mpg.
Overall... pretty happy with the car but I think it has a tick similar to my old 07. If it is the Tumble flaps... I obviously want to get them replaced ASAP because when I had it fixed in my 07... I got better MPG.
Does anyone know about how to test the IMRC on electronic TB version of the 2.0 to see if the IMRC is working or not?
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What was wrong with the tumbe flaps? What did they do to them? I guess they could hang up but ide think the diaphram would maybe be the issue. Mine has about 55k and they seemed pretty solid when i took mine apart.
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would removing these help/hinder performance in anyway?[scratch]
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I just did it to mine. I bought a second IM and then took em out and plugged all the holes.
It didnt help much like it is. Maybe if you plan to go FI or cams?
I think they are in there for low RPMs. When they close down and the RPMs are slow the smaller opening helps increase the air velocity and i think it helps low end torque.
I guess if you take them out and have the car retuned for them out you no longer have to question if they are working or not.
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They were stuck closed... not sure if it was all of them or just one of them... but it caused a loud clicking noise... I thought it was a bad valve or lifters but the guys in here said this 2.0 engine does not have a traditional lifter arrangement. It was loud enough to hear while parked but not really in the car. The dealership took it too swore that it was loud fuel injectors and even replaced 2 of them but the noise was still there. After I took it to another dealer... they fixed them and the noise was gone. The car ran better and got better MPG. I got rid of the 07 because I thought I had overran a gear... it just wouldn't shift the same after some time and I didn't want to be eventually on the hook for a MTX clutch or trans. The same dealership that fixed it for me gave me a great trade in and I took it. I got an 09 with ATX now and I THINK it might have the same issue because it ticks at start up and this time I can hear a ticking in the car while under throttle too. The car get great MPG's still but I think it could so better.
I think my 09 was a lease or dealership rental car and was beat up on before I got it... so I am trying to get the kinks worked out right away. I already had the sway bar end links done and I think it needs an alignment too.. as well as the steering end links because its got a bit of bump steer. Every time I hit a bump it seems to like to steer itself. When I get the oil changed next I am going to have the dealer near me do a 4 wheel alignment and inspect the front suspension as well.
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You would need a tune and you would probably lose some bottom end.
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Just a thought. It is often cited that the loss of low end torque for aftermarket intakes is due to the shortened runners. But now I am wondering if it is mainly due to the loss of the tumbler flaps (which are a part of the OEM intake). [scratch]
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Yeah i dont think it is the length. My hope was that by removing them i got the slight performance increase of the cossie but with the longer runners.
I didnt notice anything but the now lack of bottom end the flaps seem to help.
I didnt notice any fuel millage increase either.
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Ya'know, the other thing I have always wondered is, would the D20 benefit from the the D23 intake if you could wire the runner control. I always assumed that they were not included due to cost. Per the info provided by TB1999 (http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=238575), maybe the magic bullet is to employ the D23 intake with runner control, but without the tumble flaps. Although I think we would have to have to have Toms input for any sane answer.
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Does it do this when the engine is cold? Like it has sat all night and you are starting it up in the morning to go to work? If so, my car does this and I have been assured that this is normal and this noise was duplicated on a focus that was also an 08 with similar miles as mine. I would still take it in and leave the car with them for a good 24 hours at least.
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I dont know how you would wire it but it is a cool idea having the runners change in length as needed.
I dont spend alot of time in the upper RPMs so i would prefer the bottom end power over the top end.
It might be cool to throw on the 2.3 intake and then remove all the stuff so its just running the longer runners? TB1999 info says the 2.3 changes from 11" long to 17" and the D20 intake runners are 14" so thats 3" longer runners.
I wouldnt mind one of those with the tumble flaps on even if it would work.
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Hmmm. This is interesting! Per my 2007 wiring diagram. The "Tumbler Flaps" as we call them official name is "Intake Manifold Runner Control (IMRC) module". Then ONLY on the 2.3L (with manual transmission(?)), There is a "Intake Manifold Tuning Valve (IMTV)". Now per above, the wire to the IMTV solonoid is the same as the IMRC solonoid. So there isn't any special wiring.
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Well i thought the runner control works like the tumble flaps, lower RPMs the flaps close down on the 2.0 and on the 2.3 the runner control puts the runner in the long mode. As the RPMs increase the tumble flaps open up and on the 2.3 the runner control switches to the short runner mode.
My idea is to just fix the 2.3 intake so it just runs at it longest mode only but still use the tumble flaps the same way the 2.0 does.
It looks to me the 2.3 uses a diaphram to control the tumble flaps just like the 2.0 intake. Not sure if there is any problem with using the same vac lines that run the 2.0 tumble flaps on the 2.3 tumble flaps?
Or just delete everything and just run the 2.3 intake with everything taken out?
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Hmmm. I would think you would want the IMTV valve to be functional as you want a shorter runner higher into the RPM range. The vacuum lines could be the same/shared.
What I don't know is if the D2.0 would actually get any benefit as the head is different.
Good one to ponder?
What I don't know is if the D2.0 would actually get any benefit as the head is different.
Good one to ponder?
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I thought i read something about it not having the sensors or something to run the IMTV? something about the ECU or something not working with this IM?
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