Focus Fanatics Forum banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
May be a little long, sorry. So I was going about 45 mph and bottomed out really hard on a dip in the road. It knocked a hole in my oil pan about the size of a baseball. The car shut off within like 20 seconds. I towed it home, replaced the oil pan, put oil in it and it wouldn't start. It's very strange. When you turn they key the starter fires off, the engine cranks, it doesn't sound bad, but it won't start. The weird part is when I turn the key to start it, the starter keeps going even if you let go of the key (returns to run but keeps going). I thought that maybe the car had some sort of failsafe where if the ECM sees a drop in pressure it won't allow it to start (idk but have seen similar before) so I pulled the negative battery cable for about 5 min then reattached but no difference. I googled how to reset the ECM and this guy working in a shop had a video where he unhooked the negative side and ran a jumper from the positive side to the negative cable (not on the battery but on the car) to clear out any codes. I tried this and let it sit that way about 15 minutes. Wouldn't even click when I hooked it back up. I tried to jump it and all my lights come on and everything but it wouldn't start. I let it sit with the jumpers on/other car running to charge up and the positive jumper cable melted right where it was hooked up to the battery (on the dead car). I have no idea what's going on at this point. Did this guy's video have me fry my car? Btw, it's the most basic model, 2.0 with a 5 spd manual. Any suggestions would be extremely helpful. TIA!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15,560 Posts
Take car to somebody else to fix it. You are showing signs of someone who may destroy it left to your own. Not trying to be mean at all, just save the car so it goes on for years more.

Oil light if hole that big should have come on in 10 seconds, the difference in that and the 60 seconds mentioned before engine died may mean it is damaged. Several other things need to be checked as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
That's completely helpful. Thank you so much for contributing absolutely nothing. I did exactly what the dude in the video did. If you're not going to be helpful you could just not comment.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15,560 Posts
You just 100% verified everything I just posted....................motor on in blessed ignorance my friend. An oil light like that needs engine stopped IMMEDIATELY, or it tears up in seconds. Oil pressure gone will run maybe 20 seconds before tearing up bearings.

Not going to say much on a video by another incompetent that may well have fried things, all you do to wipe codes is simply remove a cable while not touching it to anything at ALL. Only a witless fool goes putting positive power into negative circuits on modern electronic cars.

I'll leave you alone, you have your hands full enough now and likely to make it worse with that attitude, you are headed straight downhill so far. You and reality will eventually come to an understanding.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Right, because capacitors aren't a thing right? If you were so damn smart you'd know that just pulling the negative cable isn't enough. So just keep on judging and insulting others. You probably work for a crooked dealer or shop anyway. Does anyone who's not a complete ass hat have any actual advice?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Imagine a world where people say things in a pleasant and non-insulting manner. Where they can just be decent to each other without being condescending or rude. Where we are just trying to be helpful and give others a hand IF we possess the knowledge they need. If anyone who ACTUALLY has knowledge pertaining to this situation and isn't just a troll that spends their time belittling others to alleviate their own little dog syndrome, please, let me know if you have any ideas or tips.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,491 Posts
Ok well first things first:

The impact tripped the inertia switch on the fuel pump relay. You can reset this easily by pressing the button on the switch in the passenger footwell - or you would have been able to.

Based on what you've said here, it sounds like you've got a very expensive paperweight on your hands. Sorry.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,491 Posts
I let it sit with the jumpers on/other car running to charge up and the positive jumper cable melted right where it was hooked up to the battery (on the dead car)
This is more what I was referencing... That's not supposed to happen.

Although on second thought, you may not have fried anything and just used cheap jumper cables.

Try the fuel reset. If you can't jump start the car, get a friend to help you push start it.

If that fails, then you've got more problems.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
They did look pretty cheap. I will go get my heavy duty ones and give it a shot. I did just go out and push that button, when I did there was a definitive click, which does not repeat if I try pushing it again. Would that cause the starter to continue to fire while the key is in "run" though? That's the part that worries me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,491 Posts
I don't know. You're the one with the broken car right now. I'm just sitting in my office.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
788 Posts
The car continuing to try to start itself is normal. My 2010 does this. It has a time limit though.

Also that guy that you consider being rude knows his stuff very well. He's just a little abrasive sometimes.

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15,560 Posts
'Right, because capacitors aren't a thing right? If you were so damn smart you'd know that just pulling the negative cable isn't enough.'

Study what the Ford word 'KAM' means, and why it works. I build computers among other things. The cap idea is wrong as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15,560 Posts
Ir sure suddenly got real quiet around here didn't it?

Lemmingworld......................they feed on truth is not truth.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
871 Posts
I googled how to reset the ECM and this guy working in a shop had a video where he unhooked the negative side and ran a jumper from the positive side to the negative cable (not on the battery but on the car) to clear out any codes.

...and the positive jumper cable melted right where it was hooked up to the battery (on the dead car). I have no idea what's going on at this point. Did this guy's video have me fry my car?
Holy crap. Yeah, I think dude helped you fry something on your car.

https://itstillruns.com/reset-ford-pcm-7655495.html
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
I find the videos from that Ford tech on YT to be great, he really knows his stuff. I didn't watch the video, but I agree with Mac, should have been the fuel switch originally keeping it from firing (black button over in passenger foot well)
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top