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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
Shouldn't be.....cash,time & determination......
Reminds me of another saying, "you want it done correct, cheap or on schedule? pick two". I do consulting to the commercial construction industry, and I can attest to the fact of that statement!

Well, that may be true at work, despite the fact that I try to buck the trend as much as possible. At home where we KNOW the project won't be profitable so doing it correct, over budget and behind schedule is the only real option.

In other news, I've made some minor revisions to the plans. I spent a fair bit of time after work on Friday and over the weekend head scratching at the engine bay and front bumper cover contemplating IC location, pipe routing and sizing. Its going to be a challenge. Though we have a lot of room at the back of the motor, the front is pretty tightly packed. Its going to take a fair bit more investigation to determine exactly how the IC is getting mounted.

The one item i decided on and revised was a change to my IC pipe diameter, initial planning was around 2.5" piping, but I've decided to change that to 2". this should be a lot easier to route and the reduction in intake volume should help with boost response.

Oddly enough, despite saving some money on piping, requiring more transition couplers actually pushed the price back up again. I'm going to take another look at intercoolers and see if i can find one with 2" plumbing, and maybe a bit thinner to fit better in the spot i want it to fit.

Back in the day, we always went with the biggest intercooler's we could fit/afford and the biggest piping we could fit/afford and never thought too much about how long it had to be. Know better now, make it is as big as it needs to be, and as small and short as possible.

Looking at the engine bay makes me fantasize about an air/water IC and how nicely that would package, but i've been there and dun that and it just wouldn't be appropriate for this project.

---- EDIT

okay wow. I did a bit of gooooogling and found some amazingly informed threads regarding the topic of IC pipe sizing, and i'll just summarize to say that a change to 2" piping sounds like a very good idea, and if your bored and want to see some serious nerd action go do some of your own searching on the topic.
 

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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
That graph is brilliant, that shiz is getting printed out and hung up on the office cork-board ASAP.

Nice to see we are well into the possible category, given that the Escape, even when turbskied, is hopefully going to be in the "Slow+Good" category!

I know its gunna be hellafaster than it is now, but I reckon this will likely only move it from 4th to 3rd place in the Hovey family "list".
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Okay, turbo nerd out time!

In my original planning I picked the Borg Warner EFR 6258 turbo on some pretty simple criteria, basically "whoa cool!", "would probably work" and "would package well".

That is of course, totally legit, and if you browse enough build threads on the internet you'd know that this is about how most turbo's get selected. especially when you find some threads where somebody goes through three or four trying to find one they like.

I'm not really thinking that trial and error will be a good strategy on this project for multiple reasons. Despite how much fun bringing new turbo's home is. and IS fun.

So, I got out my trusty calculator and dove headfirst into the world of turbo maps. Things started out with a bunch of printouts, scratch paper, rulers, different colored pens and highlighters spreading out and taking over my desk as I scribbled and calculated, frequently visiting the googles to brush up my slightly rusty knowledge on such things.

Until I stumbled onto the Borg Warner Match-Bot app. WHOAAA COOL! I hit the turbo-nerd motherload!

Link: Performance Turbos | BorgWarner Turbo Systems

So I literally swept all of my chicken scratched papers into the recycling bin and started over.

Of course... The app is clearly pretty powerful and has a lot of variables, resulting in feeling a bit initially overwhelmed despite being fairly familiar with turbo stuff. Fortunately, BW put together a four part series of tutorials that explain everything and do a good job of making you an instant expert on its use.

First of four video's linked below:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qIGDnbaBcJI&t=120s

I recommend you watch them while you have the Match-Bot open in another window. I paused and went back and forth several times to play with stuff. After I had gone through the tutorials I was able to quickly and easily run through the app and simulate several different chargers with different A/R housings and different elevations.

Of course, you have to take it all with a grain of salt, though its a very detailed simulation there is no way it could really take into account every variable on your build. As a good example, I played around with the turbo that I have installed on my truck, a S369 SXE. In many respects it was VERY accurate, though it assumed I made almost 1,000 horsepower on 45 pounds of boost. Though i'm sure that may be theoretically possible, in reality my truck (nor any 7.3 for that matter) can't supply that kind of fuel and actually makes quite a bit less power at quite a bit more boost.

(as an aside... that's a good thing, running much leaner clears up the smoke. at BW's simulated ideal condition it would be a GIANT black cloud and would be totally unstreetable)

In my next couple of posts i'll share some of my results and discuss.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
I'll start out by discussing some of the variables. Garbage in/Garbage out... so I tried to be as realistic as possible about how my build can effect some of these.

I setup and ran three simulations at different elevations, I know for most this is hardly a thought, but around here I can certify that its a BFD. Elevation has a drastic effect on all of our vehicles, and a big goal here is to help compensate for that. I won't beat around the bush, the 2.3L Duratec falls flat on its face when your trying to push up a grade at high elevation.

Below are our three elevations and reasoning behind it.

Home - 5500 Feet. This is about the elevation here at home in Louisville, CO and when used for her daily commute to work or running around town doing whatever. This is what we are going to tune to and use as are baseline. Our initial street tuning will happen at this elevation, our dyno tuning/datalogging will be only a couple hundred feet lower and when I take it to Bandimere for some more tuning/datalogging it will be just a couple hundred feet higher.

Top of Vail Pass - 10,600 Feet. We'll run over top of Vail pass many times a year, summer and winter. To get to Vail pass we have to head through the Eisenhower tunnel which is actually a fair bit higher, but tends to have more traffic and a slightly more manageable grade. So in my mind heading eastbound on Sunday night, running up Vail pass is sort of the worst case scenario and where we want our power available.

Back Home - 600 Feet. If we head back home to visit family and friends, this is sort of a compromise elevation between Chicago IL, Alverado TX and Midland MI, our chance to enjoy the rig in thick air. We do this roadtrip several times a year and haven't taken the Escape for several years. The gutless motor on the long drive was just too draining, so we'll be looking forward to driving it more once it has some more power.

I left temperature at the default 75. As an aside, what I have noticed that is interesting about high altitude is that the temperature typically drops quite a bit and can be surprisingly effective at helping compensate. But still... we've done the passes on warm days as well, so left this as default.

As mentioned earlier in the thread, I plan to keep the stock air box and the stock exhaust. Yes I know, this is certainly not ideal, but is inline with our build goals so its something I plan to work around. Fortunately, the Match-Bot includes Air Filter Restriction and Muffler System Back-pressure as variables, so I was able to run my simulations tuned for this case.

I assumed we'd have a moderately restrictive air filter and a very restrictive exhaust, I guess my numbers here qualify as WAG's, but it still lets me think about the system in a fairly corked up configuration which I think is likely realistic. It would be a great bonus if the exhaust happens to flow better than I anticipate.

Given the corked up exhaust and intake, I ran with a 90% Volumetric Efficiency. 95% would be typical for a modern DOHC motor. As you learn from the Match-Bot tutorials, as you begin to see some results you should take feedback and use it to correct some variables. In this case, seeing some of our Exhaust Back-Pressure numbers we'd know this would have an effect on VE and revised accordingly.

Time to talk about some turbo's....

I'm not going to post every simulation, but I will if you ask me though. For that matter, if anybody has some ideas about something they'd like to see, ask away i'm happy to play with it.

What I am going to post are combinations based around my originally assumed charger, the BW EFR 6258, running the .64 A/R wastegated T25 turbine housing. I ran simulations with this charger, as well as the 6758 and the 7064 and a couple of the AirWerks chargers and tried these out with both the .64 and .85 A/R housings.

The 6258 and the 6758 chargers achieved very simular results and would both work in this application with a bottom end boost threshold of 4.5psi at 2000rpm. Though the 6758 was right on the surge line and the 6258 was well in and running in the 60% island. So they'd both work well, but as predictable the slightly smaller charger is going to have better low-end response.

Both chargers also have some room to grow, in theory you can crank up the 6758 to 28psi and it calcs almost 400hp while the 6258 is still happy at up to 20psi or even a bit more. As you could predict, the 7064 continues the trend, being a very small amount more laggy on the bottom and offering up a lot more room on the top.

Looking at the turbine housings, its pretty clear that my restriction is the exhaust in this simulation. Playing with the variables at this power level going with the .85 A/R does not appear to offer much of any advantage and if I wanted to reduce the exhaust back-pressure i'd have to look at the exhaust. So we'll stick with the .64.

I'll also be sticking with the EFR line. As much as I like the AirWerks I have on my truck, i'll conclude that BW has done a great job with the EFR's and they are much more well rounded overall. None of the AirWerks charges I simulated could compare with the low-end response of the EFR's.

In summary...

It looks like the 6258 is nearly ideal for my application, the bottom end response is awesome and within our power goals remains very efficient all the way through. I imagine most fella's on the forum here would probably prefer the 6758, you only give up a little bit on the bottom and have loads more room up top. If you had a 2.5L or where otherwise willing to give up even a bit more on the bottom the 7064 has room to make a ton of power up top, but would still remain very streetable.

Okay, next post with maps...
 

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Discussion Starter #29 (Edited)
Here is the "Home" map at 5500 Feet.

If reality approaches this performance we'll be VERY happy. Particularly with making 4.5 pounds of boost at only 2000 RPM, predicting almost 200lb/ft of torque . Thats an incredible low-end response and its predicted to carry through to almost 300 crank horsepower at redline putting us acceptably close to our 250 wheel horsepower goal.

Efficiency through the middle of the RPM range looks fantastic, we'd have plenty of power available for interstate cruising and a nice fat powerband should make backroads passes and desert roads a blast.

Glad to see we are only using about 30% of the available wastegating. For this project i'd really like the internal to work out.

Exhaust back pressure are pretty high, but a -3 Engine Delta Pressure at 4000rpm is not bad at all and I think we can live with it overall. Its not a racecar afterall, and probably won't get wound out to redline very much anyways.

305318


305319


305320
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Here is how she'll perform at the top of Vail Pass.

Most notably here is an obvious loss of power, but we are still predicted to make over 250 lb/ft of torque at 4000 rpm so I bet it would be scooting right along.

At higher RPM's are back pressure is going up, the Delta Pressures are looking less than ideal and all of the efficiencies slide to the right on the map and our redline number falls off the choke point on the far right.

Not much you can do about it at that altitude, but fortunately we should have the mid range power to keep it at a moderate RPM with more than 200hp available between 4k and 5k.





 

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Discussion Starter #31
Thick air at 600 feet.

Obviously everything gets a lot happier with the thicker air! The turbskie gets noticeably more efficient across the RPM range and our low RPM boost threshold looks even better. I probably could have revised boost and rpm and figured out exactly how good it could look, but i bet we'd basically start building boost right off idle.

Torque now peaks at almost 300 lb/ft at 4000rpm and we making almost 325 crank horsepower at redline, assuming driveline loss around 25% puts us just on the safe side of 250 wheel horsepower.

This works the wastegate a little harder, but still at only 35% so we should be good and the back pressure improves a good bit.

I'd almost be jealous of people who live at lower altitude... if it wasn't for lack of mountains to drive through!








On a total sidenote.... I'm stoked for Thanksgiving... driving the truck down to Tejas for the holiday. I actually haven't driven it at lower than 5000 feet since I did the big injector and turbo upgrade. I bet its going to haul arse and hopefully I have enough air down there to clear the smoke up on my race tune. Would be awesome to get to drive it around on the street like that. cross my fingers not to break another rear u-joint....
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Doh... just when I was ready to jump into the duratec... I may have myself a minor distraction.

In case you were curious what the inside of a ZF6 trans looks like....

 

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Discussion Starter #33
So yup... Escape project delayed a month while I rebuild the ZF6 in the truck.

6th gear carnage! This is the gear and synchro below the PBR can in the photo above.





 

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Im new to the 2.3 world. I was told that if I wanted to get some sound knowledge that i should check out this page.

I'm running a 2.3ns (yes it's a Ranger) which from my understanding isnt much different from the 23e other than the FWD set up, air cleaner placement and in/ex manifolds. Please correct me if I am wrong.

I'm hoping that as fellow 2.3 fanatics, of course me being new to the fam that someone will still give me some sound advice. The Ranger forums just keep saying "get a bigger motor" bla bla bla..... I want to stick with the beast that I know is waiting to be unleashed and from reading the posts in this thread it seems like im on the right track. And I have the sneaky suspicion that you guys can help.

I may have jumped the gun but just ordered a K&N cone filter. Obviously there will some mod. to the air cleaner box.
BBK 70 MM throttle body
OBX Stage1 CamShaft IN/EX Focus 2.0L 2.3L Duratec
Competition Cams 846-8 High Energy (TM) Valve Lifters
MLS Master Gasket Set Fits 03-11 Ford Focus Mazda 3,5 2.0L 2.3L DOHC DURATEC, obviously because its a used high mileage vehicle even though it runs like a low mileage vehicle.
It has the same intake abilities as the 4.0 so Im good on that front.

I plan to add an OBX Ex Manifold from a Mazda MX 5
Flowmaster High Flow Cat
Flowmaster 40 series muffler straight back
MSD coil pack with double plat. plugs
And a good tune.
Any advice on a reputable place to get it done near WV would be greatly appreciated

So that should cover my intake, exhaust and spark needs to gain a decent amount of HP, spark and throttle response. From my understanding I dont need to do fuel unless I add a turbo. Again correct me if Im wrong.

To get my torque I'm going with a 8.8 4.10 gears
Ford Performance Lok differential.

My questions are.....
How much HP should I be able to achieve in retrospect?
Do I need to change the injecters and run higher octane fuel?
Is there anything else I can do without going forced induction
of course other than getting a bigger motor or a Focus? lol
And how the hell do I start a new thread?
Thank you in advance for any responses!!!!!!!

~ Why? Because stock can always be made more fun!!!~
 

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I highly recommend you do adj cam gears and some dyno time to adjust them

Full custom tune will also be needed which I can help you with

180 deg thermostat and Autolite AR103 plugs

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Well, time to drag this thread back up from the depths. This one got sidelined for a couple of years as we purchased and dealt with some other vehicles, had some health issues in the family, pursued and then sidelined the purchase of a business, and now we found ourselves back where we started with the escape!

On Monday my wife starts a new job, but instead of her 4 mile commute she'll now be driving about 30 miles including up i70 and having to pull a couple of the steep hills on a daily basis she's given the Turbo Escape Project a full green light and 100% funding (new jobs are good for that!).

So Tom, are you still on board as our tuner?

I also see that my favorite image hosting company has bit the dust. I'll see if I can go back through the thread and fix all of the photos. major bummer.

I'm also re-working my parts/budget spreadsheet and will re-post that when updated. I've made some minor parts upgrades (such as ditching silicone couplers for Vibrant clamps) and we are not going to phase out the build. When we pull the trigger I plan on making 100% of our parts purchase and diving into the project to complete it as quickly as reasonable. Amber will likely drive the E55 AMG while the Escape is being worked on and i want to minimize the millage racked up on my new hot rod.
 
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