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Discussion Starter #1
Well, here is my first post on the forum, how is that for an intro?

First off, i'll start with a big THANKS to everybody who has been posting and documenting great projects and builds here on the forum. Most of these vehicle projects would be difficult or impossible to accomplish or even get off the ground with the communities that come together around them.

I've been lurking on and off for awhile, but only in the last week have I been really digging through the forums and I think my learning curve has crested the point that we are going to call this project a GO. I'm getting this build thread started to share our process with everybody out there and also so that I can get your feedback and learn from your experiences.

First off i'll start with sharing a little of my automotive background.

My first car was a Merkur XR4Ti, solidifying a solid long term addiction with Ford vehicles and forced induction. This followed on with several more Merkurs and then a Sierra Cosworth (please, no questions about how that was imported!) and a 91 Mustang drag car project that ran mid 9's with a turbocharged 351w. While building the cossie and the stang I purchased an 02 Focus as a daily and did a variety of bolt-ons. The Focus was kept and the other cars were sold for a 7 year car modding hiatus while I lived in downtown Chicago. Then I got married to my lovely wife and her 2008 Escape, and moved to Louisville, Colorado. Getting back into vehicles in Colorado fashion my wife and I bought a 1950 Willys CJ3a (what you would call a Jeep, but technically prior to that) as our first piece of common property and then bought our dream house with a huge garage and attached shop space. The jeep has been resto-modded into a mild rock-crawler utilizing Toyota FJ60 axles, a Buick 225 Odd-fire V6 and runs on 35" MTR's, not to mention a billion other mods, almost entirely being custom made parts that I've fabricated and TIG welded in my shop. I gave the Focus to my son when he turned 16 and adopted a new daily driver, a 1999 F350 with the 7.3L diesel motor and 6spd manual trans. Since purchase the Powerstroke has been a constant project, it still has a stock block (forged) and heads (though they've been studded with upgraded valve springs and push rods) but about everything else has been substantially upgraded including a BW-S366sxe turbo and Swamps 250/200 hybrid injectors. Its really built to be a hauler of gear and butt in the mountains, but i've managed to get it down Bandimere in 13.2 seconds at 106mph. As you can guess by that time, 60's are much more of a problem than ultimate horsepower. Its a long story, but last year we also added a 1999 BMW 540i to our collection, which more or less serves as a spare car or for long road trips where we don't need the hauling capacity of the truck.

So now about that Escape...

We have a pretty adventurous lifestyle, we live in Colorado because its suits our sports and lifestyle, we climb, bike, ski, kayak, hunt, hike, camp, 4x4, ect ect ect as much as we can. As much as we love the vehicles, wrenching on them is sort of a "at home" hobby to keep me occupied on Tuesday evenings, and most of our vehicles exist to support our outdoorsie lifestyle. Amber had been beating the living crap out of a Toyota Corolla for years and decided it was time for a more appropriate vehicle. She settled on the 2008 Ford Escape since it was available with a manual transmission, we loved the 2.3 Duratec motor, it has an amazing amount of suspension travel and clearance. Even though its only front wheel drive, it does a great job running up and down USFS and BLM roads. She specifically searched all over the country to find the most stripped down factory version as we wanted the simplest platform and new that we could do better ourselves with some of the factory options. Ultimately she located this specific model at a dealer near Atlanta, being a base model with a stick shift, she was able to negotiate hard and paid a song for it.

Immediately after receiving "Essie the Supertruck" (as Amber calls it) we ditched the stock tires for some substantially larger Hancook Dynapro's, added some LED cube fog lites, yakima roof rails and rack, tinted the windows and had installed a very nice aftermarket sunroof.

Over the last 9 years and 120,000 miles of life, she's been 100% trouble free and has been on numerous adventures that i'm pretty sure Ford never intended, she's driven over Vail pass in blizzards numerous times, done Jeep roads in Moab, been Baja'd and literally jumped through the sand dunes, not to mention being driven to work nearly every day of its life. Despite the fact that my wife could drive pretty much any car she wants, she LOVES this thing and wants to keep it forever.

Our only real issue with it, is that its pretty under powered. Especially when your driving over mountain passes, and especially now that we've gotten used to driving the truck which is capable of climbing Vail pass at over 80mph even when loaded down with a camper, trailer AND the Escape!

So... Amber has been hounding me for years... "why do all the other vehicles get souped up?!?!!" she knows full well what i'm capable off, but all the other vehicles just kept getting ahead of Essie. The poor escape was just too reliable and solid, it just never begged for much attention and thus she just didn't get much. But, we've had the idea of turbocharging the Escape noodling in the backs of our minds for years now. If you've ever looked under the hood of a 2.3 Duratec Escape, one look at how much room is available will certainly leave you wanted to add a turbo to the mix.

Well, about a month ago I was up in Whistler mountain biking with some friends, and Amber drove down to Manco's in S/W CO to hang with her friend Lizzy. On the way home, reportably driving "aggressively" over one of the passes, the clutch started slipping. Over the next couple of weeks it got worse and worse, so I ordered up parts and decided it was time for Essie to receive her first major surgery. So, last week I dug in and replaced the clutch and flywheel with new stock parts. It turns out it was actually the dual mass flyhweel that failed, though the clutch was on its last legs.

With that done, i've now officially torn into and resembled it once, its no longer a virgin vehicle and i've spent enough quality time tacking it apart and putting it back together that i know i'm happy to tear into it.

So, the Turbo Escape project is officially a GO.

My first order of business was to figure out how/who the tuning would get accomplished, Tom and I have already corresponded via email and he'll be handling our tuning.

I think first step will be to get the Flasher in, and have Tom get an N/A tune onto it.

Given that we'll want to minimize downtown and have the vehicle available for driving in the snow, the tentative plan will be to research, purchase and gather parts over the winter. Come about April Amber can use the E39 as a commuter and the Escape will go into the shop for forced induction surgery.

Power goals will be moderate for the time being, I think i'd like to shoot for about 250 horsepower give or take. This will be more than enough to make it substantially quicker, and the turbo alone will help us maintain that power at high altitude.

Of utmost importance will be reliability. This thing will get driven daily, and it will get driven in the back-country, and it will get driven in horrendous weather conditions.

Nothing has an unlimited budget... in fact we watch our money like hawks. but... we are willing and capable of spending whats necessary to get the job done right and won't be cutting corners just to save money. Compared to the trucks upgrades, this should be relatively affordable and this project has one serious advantage. This project actually belongs to and is being performed at the behest of my households CFO.

Thats enough typing for now, its nice to have joined the forums, I hope some of ya'll are as excited about this project as I am, and I'd be thrilled to start hearing from everybody some ideas, opinions, ect.

In my next post i'll start getting into some specifics about parts and systems and will likely have some specific questions to catch some feedback on.

Here she is, rigged for Kayak self-supported river shuttle duty.

dangit! I need 10 posts before i can post an Image! sorry guys!
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Okay, 10 post, so here are some photos of our little super truck!

Here she is, rigged for Kayak self-supported river shuttle duty.

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And here she is rallying around Moab.

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3rd Time's the Charm
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Moar Moar Moar! I'd like to see it with the modifications sitting still if you have some.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Ugh, now you got me thinking... They're not quite as rare as you'd think, and cheap for a project vehicle!
Than you got no excuse man! go snap one up and get to work!

They really are a great little machine, very practical, fun to drive and super cheap! its kind of like a focus that you can jump snowbanks with lol.

since you asked, here are a couple more shot of her in current state.

3/4 view. I can't remember what size the upsized tires are, but they are about 3 steps bigger than stock, maybe about equivalent to a 32". no rubbing or any issues at all, its hasn't been lifted a bit and we don't intend to. we love the Hancook Dynapro's on this, they are a great tire for winter conditions and we've only put the chains on when the snow gets crazy deep on back roads. we also love the durability of the steel wheels. We thought the factory roof rack looked like a crappy piece, so we actually drilled the roof and bolted on the yakima rails. much better setup. nothing on it here, but we have bike racks, ski racks, kayak racks and two different cargo boxes. The headlights are quite good, but the LED cubes are nice for extra peripheral vision and rain/snow. I have a lightbar to add for extra bright, i need to get around to that. we almost had an elk encounter near Taos two years ago, so you can outdrive the brights if you are so inclined.

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Engine bay. Nearly bone stock, just maintenance, a drop in K&N filter and the Warn solenoid for the fog lites. as you can see, we have LOTS of "room for activities" back there on the exhaust side of the motor, and probably 8" between the top of the motor and the hood. packaging the turbo kit into here will not be much of an issue. I'll be either looking for or making some sort of top mount turbo manifold/header. not sure if such a beast exists for purchase yet, obviously you don't have that same kind of room in a focus. Engine is pretty clean, no leaks and has been nice to work on. Its amazing what living your entire life in the garage will do for you. I think i've hosed off the motor maybe once or twice.

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since i spent like 6 hours cleaning it the other day, i have to post an interior shot. the interior of this thing has gotten worked pretty hard given all the roads trips and general adventurmobile activities, but it cleans up well! one of Ambers few criteria is that the interior is not allowed to look like an airliner. The 7.3's interior is adorned with Boost, EGT, Fuel Pressure, a turbomasrt boost controller, an EDGE OBD2 display,tune selector, trailer brake controller, engine brake controller, ect ect ect and looks more like a cockpit than an interior. so, i'm NOT allowed to add any gauges to the interior and she insists it run well enough that they are unnecessary while she drives. I think i'll setup boost, wideband and OBD2 guages for my use when tuning, but removable for regular use.

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Just for fun, here's the shop, and the beemer enjoying a night indoors. I was busy doing a pretty massive rehab project in here, but got kind of interrupted by summer fun, projects and adulting. Most likely over the winter while gather turbo-escape parts i'll finish up with the pegboard, trim, doors on the workbench cabinets ect. Then everything will get a coat of gloss white. we are pretty well equipped with steel countertops, a computer at the welding table, most any hand tool you'd need, most power tools you'd want, plenty of air (big comp is out back in the shed), a Lincoln TIG, a MIller MIG, a Hypertherm Plasma and most importantly, LOTS of lighting.

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There is already Cast Manifolds out so that will help a lot
60lb Inj
Diablosport MAFia
AR 103 Autolite plugs
180 deg thermostat
Turbo
Intercooler
Waste Gate
Blow Off Valve
Wide band air fuel gauge

Thats a good start

Tom
 

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Did the photos work? i'm not seeing them. sounds like an awesome project. So you were able to do all of the off road things you mentioned with a front drive escape? i guess i never realized how capable they are.
 

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Keep the boost reasonable & you won't have to tear it to the motor. I'd do a bsd(balance shaft delete), that'll delete 20lbs static weight + the rotational weight. It'll also add a qtr of oil capacity too.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Did the photos work? i'm not seeing them. sounds like an awesome project. So you were able to do all of the off road things you mentioned with a front drive escape? i guess i never realized how capable they are.
Hopefully the photos are working for you, they are for me, hosted by tinypic.com which has always worked well for me.

Yeah, its done a lot of off-roading! though we mostly keep it to what i'd call "un-improved roads", marked roads on USFS and BLM land, but not necessarily "jeep trails" or anything really meant for a serious 4x4 or rockcrawler.

Since we have two other "real" 4x4's with 35's, lockers and real four wheel drive that have done a lot of wheeling in, we have a pretty good sense about what we can do in the Escape, what we can do in the full size truck and what we'd only tackle in the Willys. We certainly have backed off from obstacles in the past.

But i'll tell you, an Escape with some good tires is probably far more capable than you'd think. It has a great suspension design with a lot more travel than you'd initial suspect. Probably the biggest difference (within reason) is that real 4x4's have really low gearing, much bigger tires that we can air way down and front/rear lockers. In most cases we are able to approach an obstacle very slow and with lots of traction so we'll just "crawl" over top of whatever is in front of us.

Without the low gearing and lockers, if we have to get over a small rock ledge or something, we'll have to drive the escape much more aggressively and attack it with a whole lot more speed and throttle to kind of bounce our way over. And yes, being two wheel drive we have to be pretty deliberate about keeping our front tires in a place where they'll have traction.

but, front wheel drive only is certainly more capable than rear wheel drive only. In a perfect world we'd love to convert the Escape to a 4x4, but I just don't see that as realistic, and of course, when the going gets really tough we have the choice of two other trucks.

Just for fun.... this is the jeepish kind of thing...

Its a 1950 Willys CJ3a with a Buick 225 V6, an SM465 trans, built twin stick D20 transfer case, built axles from a FJ60 toyota land cruiser, hydro assist power steering, jeep YJ springs and tons of custom fabrication including frame reinforcement and full steel plate belly. It doesn't look like much, but its very small, very light, powerful and has a very low center of gravity. I really need to built a full cage for it, its capable of getting me in way more trouble than that cage could help!





In Turbo Escape related stuff... I'm busy working on some parts selection spreadsheets and hope to post some of that tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Okay, so let’s start having a serious discussion about some parts and what this is going to look like. I’ve been assembling a parts list, and I’ve tried to base this on the concept that if I could pick my ideal parts list, this is what it might look like. Not really trying to go buck wild, but trying to select parts that I’d really like to use. I’m sure this will get value engineered as I make some cost/benefit analysis decisions and try to do some deal shopping. Being new to modding the Duratec motor, feedback, recommendations and ideas are all very much appreciated!

In very broad stroke terms, we discussed a budget for this project to be between $2,500 and $5,000. We’d obviously like to be lower in that range, but as previously discussed if it makes sense to spend it, we’ll do it. In all fairness… my wife didn’t exactly have to mention how much has been spent on my vehicles… so it’s her turn. If for morbid curiosity you want to know how much it costs to mod a 7.3 turbodiesel, go browse through swampsdiesel.com and think about what parts you might need to make way more than 500hp….

I’ll start with clarifying some of our specific criteria and goals for the build. This one will be a little different than most, as out and out performance is not really our goal, okay, making a lot more horsepower is our goal, but there’s more to it than that…

First up, we live in an area that does require emissions testing. The Escape was exempt for many years, but this year that exemption ran out and we did have to take it down to Air Care for a test. Fortunately, we only have to do this every two years, and if we drive the car through two of the mobile Rapid Screen roadside tests every 10 months we won’t have to take it in to an Air Care station at all. Furthermore, when we did have to take it in, all they did was plug in an OBD2 scanner and run the car for a couple of minutes, no dyno, no sniffer, never even popped the hood. So we aren’t exactly that worried about the emissions side of things.

But, we will maintain all of the emissions required equipment, which doesn’t look it will be all that difficult and may help play into accomplishing some of our other goals. I’ll also try to keep the under hood looking more or less OEM+. Basically I’ll try to plumb things together in a tidy fashion, use black colored parts and probably paint or powdercoat pipes and whatnot in wrinkle black and tuck obviously aftermarket parts out of view. Not that I think this will be a big deal, my trucks engine bay is VERY not OEM looking and they don’t bat an eye during her yearly checkup.

I plan to keep the exhaust 100% stock, both for emissions reasons and because Amber would like to keep the exhaust quite. Despite the fact that I’d love to run a 3” straight pipe, that would almost certainly upset the emissions applecart, and I can also fully appreciate Ambers desire to keep this in the sleeper category. Looking at it a little bit, I’m pretty sure I can cut off the stock exhaust right above the upper cats O2 sensor location and make a short custom downpipe to tie back into it. Hopefully this isn’t overly restrictive, the exhaust system looks pretty straight through. We’ll see. Some anecdotal feedback on how Turbo Duratecs respond to exhaust upgrades could be appreciated.

I am also considering keeping the stock air box and MAF mount in place, maybe with some modifications and a drop in filter of higher quality. It doesn’t look overly restrictive, maintains OEM appearance and I have to be honest that dust is a big concern given the places we drive. We’ve kept with stock filters because they are easy to drop in the trash and replace quick and easy depending on where we’ve been driving. Amongst the more interesting off-highway driving mentioned above, sometimes it’s just miles and miles and miles of dirt roads. We own property in the Sangre DeCristo Mountains and its over an hour of dirt roads from the highway to our little patch of land, not to mention all the running around the Utah desert and dirt roads following rivers during kayak runs.

We don’t mind some fun turbo noises and want to hear a little whistle and some BOV, but that stock exhaust and stock airbox ought to keep it pretty quiet and subtle. She’d like to see some Speed3, STI or Focus owners give her a subtle raise of the eyebrow every now and then, but doesn’t need every soccer dad stuck in a minivan trying to race her. They do that… I’m not sure why.

Also keeping with the stock theme, as mentioned in a prior post, the interior is to remain 100% stock in appearance and it needs to be tuned well enough as to not require constant gauge monitoring. Of course, you can’t get entirely away from this, but I think I have a workable strategy. For boost control I think I’ll go with a Turbosmart E-Boost Street controller. I’m a big fan of Turbosmart stuff and run many of their parts on my truck. I think it will be easy to mount the controller down inside the center console, I’ll be able to mess with it while in the tuning and setup phase, then have it totally concealed in normal operation. For gauges I’ll go with an AutoMeter SportComp boost/vac gauge and an AEM wideband air/fual gauge. To mount these I’ll get a couple of AutoMeter gauge cups and fabricate a small magnetic base so I can run the lines/wires with some connectors and stick the gauges on the hood near the cowl so I can see them during the setup/tune phase and then remove them after everything is running well. We already have a BT adaptor and Torque Pro for monitoring OBD2 data and it is my understanding that our tuning hardware will have data logging capability.

Tom who also posted above will do our tuning and I’ll go with his recommended tuning hardware, the XCAL4 flasher, as well as his other recommended items such as the Diablosport Mafia, Autolite Plugs, 180 degree thermostat and 60 pound injectors. I’ve located the injectors for sale as fsworks, whom I’ve had good dealing with in the past, but wouldn’t mind knowing what some other preferred retailers are that I should be shopping.

I’m also curious to discuss the 180 degree thermostat and I’ll do some searching. Do we tend to have some cooling issues after forced induction is added to the mix? If so, I might be interested in looking into some supplemental cooling. Keep in mind, when we head to the mountains this isn’t going to be a quick stoplight hit of boost or even a quick drag run. We’ll have this thing in sustained boost for mile and miles of hill climbing. We’ve been down this road with the truck, changing thermostats only alters at what temperature they open, but once open, it’s open and it doesn’t matter anymore. Your temperature is limited by your cooling capacity and we’ll put it to the test. For example, when fully loaded we see 35-50+psi of boost in the truck for over a dozen miles climbing eastbound over Vail pass at oil temps up to 240 degrees regardless of using our 190 or 203 degree thermostat (powerstrokes don’t monitor coolant temp, though it typically runs 10-12 degrees under oil temp). We only got this under check by increasing the efficiency of the cooling system.

I guess our application may lean a little more towards the stresses of a car designed for track day use. Maybe a supplemental oil cooler would be prudent.

On the topic of mods prudent to durability, what are people’s thoughts on dropping head studs into these? Obviously that’s a very common mod when building a motor, but they would also be very easy to add while the motor is in the car and a set of ARP studs are surprisingly affordable at about $170. This is an extremely common mod on diesel trucks and I installed a set of ARP’s in my 7.3, if Ya’ll aren’t familiar with the method you just do them one at a time in standard pattern and torque each to spec as you go, then a final torque check when your done and typically it’s a good idea to run the motor up to temp for a while and give them a final torque check while the motor is still warm. I did some searching but didn’t find any other info related to head studs except related to built motors. Maybe keeping the heads on these at mild boost is a non-issue?

I know this is going long… but let’s start talking about the fun stuff.

For the header, I think I’m just going to fabricate my own. I have the time, TIG and talent so I might as well. I also think the Escape is a unique situation where I have LOTS of room above the manifold for a top mount setup and mounting the turbo above the head will help create clearance to tie into the stock exhaust and make a straight shot to that stock airbox and over top of the motor for intercooler piping.
I’ve located a “Massive Speed” brand stainless steel header flange on Ebay for only $30. Any experience with these or recommendations for other sources? Otherwise, I’ll order stainless bends, pipe and flanges from Vibrant through amazon. This will likely be my first project, I think I can more or less eyeball placement and bench fabricate the header while the Escape is still roadworthy. Fortunately I have room for error, just look at that photos above, soooooooooo much room for turbo fun at the back of that engine bay. Though they may look it in the photo, those heater lines and wiring won’t interfere, I could also easily fabricate a small heat shield to help protect the wiring.

For an Intercooler, I’m looking at a 28x7.5x2.5 Mishimoto unit. I’ve had good luck with Mishimoto stuff and the price is reasonable, though this is very preliminary at this time. I need to do some investigation as to where I’ll mount it and how much room I’ll have. Obviously bigger is better, but I suspect that would do the job.

Now for the real fun stuff, on today’s episode of Lets Pick a Turbo our first contestant is the incredibly sexy Borg Warner EFR 6258-A. But oh gosh, she is no cheap date at $1,667.45 through the Jegs escort service. This is the model with the .64 A/R single scroll housing. In a perfect world I could do a twin scroll, but I just don’t feel like making it that complicated and having to fabricate a paired equal length header. I also like the well-designed integral wastegate and nifty recirculating blow-off valve, which will save me from having to buy and deal with the other parts. I suppose for a cost savings I should consider the BW AirWerks S1BG, on the downside it’s a journal bearing center section and I’d have to add a BOV. But on the upside it’s available in some smaller sizes than the EFR and maybe one of those would work better.

As for turbo sizing, this is where I’d really like to pick the brains of everybody around here. I’m just starting to wrap my head around it for this motor and it’s a total different beast than what I’ve been dealing with for years. I think our power goals are modest compared to others who have gone to this extent, but we’d really like this thing to spool at low RPM and drive in a smooth and linear fashion. We don’t want something that’s going to be a dog at 3500 and then light off at 5000 or higher! I’ve had one of those cars before, and after a while it’s not as much fun as you’d like it to be.

It’s also worth noting that though I’ve become a fan of BW turbo’s do to my recent great experiences, I’m not married to them!

Thanks for reading everybody, I know this isn’t as exciting as having a build thread full of photos and major progress on our way to 700hp, but hopefully we can have some fun with a bit of good technical discussion that will pay dividends in the future, and I DO promise that this thread will have some welding porn in it eventually! Both of the stainless steel and aluminum variety.

See below, this is the preliminary planning spreadsheet I’ve been assembling. As always, nothing is cast in stone, this is a total first stab and I’d be thrilled about any thoughts, feedback or constructive criticism. Thanks fellow turbo junkies!

 

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So mote be it
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The EFR's are really great little turbo's with a good spool. I have the slightly larger 6758 and boost starts just before 3k rpms on my 2.0l, I'd assume on your 2.3 and the smaller turbo you would see it even sooner.

Have you seen the full-race version of the 6258? After adding options, it looks like it comes slightly under your price on your spread sheet. Just throwing it out there to compare for you.
https://www.full-race.com/store/borg-warner-efr/turbos-efr-series/borgwarner-efr-6258-turbo/
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
thanks man, thats great feedback and thanks for the tip on Full-Race! Knowing your experience, that smaller turbo should spool great on ours!

any more info out there on your build?

fun reading, tech overview of the EFR turbo's.

http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticles/ID/1750/BorgWarner-EFR-Turbo-Feature-Set.aspx

I would have seriously considered one of these for the truck, but the fancy new gamma-ti turbine wheel is not recommended for high power diesel applications and our EGT's. In street tune i'm dialed in well enough that i can't push it above 1200, but when blowing through the traps at Bandimere my 1600 degree gauge is pegged.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Oh boy, you're making me think about looking for a clean Escape - 2.3 5-spd......
I recommend you score one, at the very least they make a great DD while you mod out your other cars!

I've been working on updating the planning spreadsheet and phasing out some of the work and purchasing. Have a look and let me know if you have any alternative thoughts. I'd love to trim the total cost down a bit to be honest, but the only big chunk of fat i'm seeing here is that EFR turbo, but i'll admit i'm kind of lusting for it so downgrading gives me some heartburn. Likely have a meeting with the CFO tonight and see if we can get the trigger pulled on the header fab.

On a tech note, what are the common locations for turbo oil supply and return? If i know this i can fine-tune my parts order in that respect. I'm inclined to assume the common method for a return line would be to drill and tap or weld in an AN fitting to the oil pan. That would be fine by me, yay aluminum welding, and i'll drop the pan anyways for the BSD.

 

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I wouldnt do a Turbo with built in BOV and internal waste gate for your project , It just limits you to much unless your sticking with the stock engine and never doing a built for boost engine

XCAL4 with boost Tune 949.00 shipped , XCAL4 and NA Custom Tune is 462.00 shipped

Plugs , 180 Deg Thermostat , air filter , etc etc

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Thanks Tom, made some revisions below based on your notes.

If I end up sticking with the EFR turbo, i'm inclined to give the internal wastegate and BOV a shot, it seams as though these have a significantly better design than older stuff i've messed with, and if they work out would be packaged pretty nicely. If it came too it and I wanted to add external BOV's and a wastegate, they can be removed from this charger and I happen to have some turbosmart parts already sitting in boxes in the garage.

Thanks for clarifying your pricing and saving me a couple bucks!

Edit, made some corrections and added some Dyno time. ATS Diesel is across the street and i've always used their rollers for data logging. They'll find it novel to have a small gas vehicle over LOL

 

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Wow!
I am one week away from relocating from Oklahoma City to Broomfield (was raised in the Denver area, so I'm going home), and now I see this post about a fellow Ford fan who is wanting to do ALL KINDS of fun stuff to his motor. My 2007 Focus Wagon (5MT) STILL has a dead motor due to water inject . . . . urrrr, ingestion a few years ago. I have decided to be a fool and haul my poor, silver, rolling paper weight to Colorado when I pick up my household goods from storage in OKC - though I have wavered a bit on the commitment to my Focus.
Your post is inspiring me to make SURE I bring my 2.5L motor (from a 2010 Fusion), my 2.3L cylinder head, and (hopefully) enough tools to make sure that I can begin on my Frankenmotor. I'll prolly go all motor for stage one, just to make sure I can get it running properly and reliably, but how great would it be if I could fit a hairdryer on my motor in the future? Pretty great, I think!!!
thovey, I'll be working in Broomfield (near the airport) and I hope to find a place to live that's fairly close to work, but I won't be too far down the road from you all.
I wish to volunteer to assist you with your various projects! That is if you can stand having an assistant around. I've got some skillz, but I haven't done anything like what you've done.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Right on man, my wife works over in that neck of the woods as well, nice area! On nice days we like to head over to the bar at the Broomfield airport for happy hour. Nice outdoor patio where you can chill and watch the traffic. Particularly fun when the news copters are heading in and out or when there are wildfire operations going on.

I keep my office down in Wheat Ridge, which is nice because we have a LOT of automotive and industrial stuff nearby. Dyno, plasma cutting, powder coating, alignment, mount and balance tires, engine machine shop, all within walking distance so its easy to get stuff done on my lunch break or whatnot.

Good luck house hunting! prices have gone a little wackjob around here, Louisville in particular, we were lucky to buy back in 2008 before things got really out of control. But, if you look around Broomfield and Arvada I bet you can find something reasonable and still have an easy commute to work.

You'll have to come visit the garage, when the weather is nice I keep the door open while i'm working out there and that's always an open invite for peeps to stop by. I don't usually get much done when I get visitors, but the shop fridge is always stocked with cold beer! I'll give you a rip around the block in the truck too :)

If you want a new Focus project... I'd love to sell my 2002 to somebody looking for one! Cheap!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I guess since this is a Focus based forum, and since I also have one of those, I might as well post a photo of her!

She's been a great little car, but doesn't get used much anymore. Runs and drives good, but has a couple weird quirks that could use some sorting out. Has some minor mods, but nothing crazy. SVT suspension package, full prothane bushings, Exedy stage 2 clutch, FSWerks lightweight flywheel, projector headlights and a big stereo.

 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
New version of the spreadsheet, figured out some more parts estimates, moved some stuff around and added some budget and scheduling to it as well after looking over the previous spreadsheet with the CFO.

I jokingly call her the CFO, but my wife really does have an Executive MBA and an MS in marketing, so spreadsheets like this aren't just good for planning, but its kind of her language. Despite the fact that she doesn't know nor care what the heck what most of this stuff is, if i present it this way it gives her a chance to understand the schedule and financial implications and give her stamp of approval to the project.

Though best laid plans seldom survive first contact, we typically try to do our best when it comes to major projects, whether they be home improvement or the vehicles. With almost 20 years of vehicle wrenching under my belt (and a fair bit of genetic experience), I've been down the road just throwing parts and money at an engine bay, and i know what kind of headaches and heartaches can ensue, so we try our best to take a scientific approach to this junk!

Of course i'd love to just go on a spending spree and jump neck deep into it, I have to recognize that time and money are items of limited resource, so we've budgeted this in an easy to bite off sort of way knowing full well that other things will be pulling on the time and money from different directions. We are starting off with with a $350/month budget, then ramping to $500/month through the peak summer where we'll be using the Escape a bit (see photo of it in kayak shuttle configuration) need to make the big ticket purchases and to be honest... i tend to spend my time doing other things.

 
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