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Discussion Starter #22
I have not given up and thanks for all the help so far. I just got back from a month long vacation in my home island in the Pacific.

I picked up more diagnostic tools to test relays, fuses and sensors. I also replaced the fuel injectors and the fuel rail pressure sensor. The old fuel pressure sensor literally crumbled apart when I removed it. Then I started testing fuel, spark, compression, all over again. I was careful this time to keep the batt charged and check for unspent fuel in the cylinders. All components seemed to be in place so I did a test to see of I get combustion - made sure the plugs were dry and with the fuel pump relay and fuse disconnected and gas pedal on the floor, I started the car with starting fluid (first start in over six weeks). A lot of white smoke came out at first but disappeared as the car warmed up. I took my foot off the gas pedal and was expecting the engine to die but it never did so I let it run for about 10 minutes. During this time with no fuel pump relay and fuse, the scan tool said fuel pressure was 8-9 psi. It also finally registered a CEL and the codes were:
P0191 – Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit
P2196 – O2 Sensor Signal Biased/Stuck Rich Bank 1 Sensor 1
I then re-inserted the fuel pump relay and fuse and was able to start the car. I drove it around the block for about 10 minutes. It drove fine up to about 2,500 rpm but experienced some power loss and misfiring when trying to get the car up to speed. The live data scan tool said fuel pressure of 38-42 psi.

I’m guessing I should change the 15 yr-old O2 sensor (maybe upstream and downstream?) and test the fuel pump. I will research that.

Anyone have any thoughts or experience that may help me in my next steps?
 

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Discussion Starter #23
After researching and sleeping on it, it occurred to me that the codes may be due in part to the unplugged fuel relay and fuse. I'm going to clear the codes and add some fresh gas next.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Fuel pressure looks good.
Thanks for saving me research time on fuel psi. Did clear the codes and added fresh gas.

Anyway, it seems I have success. As posted, finally got the car running yesterday after replacing the fuel rail pressure sensor and fuel injectors but it still ran rough under higher load. Got to researching possible causes of the P2196 code (which was probably bogus since I had the fuel pump relay and fuse disconnected) and decided that I needed to inspect the MAP sensor. When I pulled the MAP sensor, I thought it odd that it was orange but after cleaning, it was actually black... See attached pics of before and after. (BTW, because of this site, I knew to re-tune the engine after any changes like this). After cleaning MAP sensor, I was pleasantly surprised the car started right up. Then I drove it without ANY hesitation or misfires. Although it has only be about 12 miles of driving, so far there are no more issues or CEL and most awesome is there is no more slight smell of fuel.

As I look back at it, one or more of the injectors was spewing more than the others so I replaced them all. The few rail pressure sensor had signs of failing so it was replaced (glad I did because it fell apart upon removal). The MAP sensor was really dirty and I cleaned it.

After all this, the knocking sound of the intake manifold flaps never sounded so good!!!

Thanks to all for providing your input and helping to increase my knowledge (and prompt me to acquire diagnostic tools).
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Inspected plugs today and they look normal and not black. Fuel rail pressure sensor vacuum hose no longer smells of gas. Oil no longer smells of gas. Car runs really well. With the recent hydrolocking and all the other neglected things on this car when we got it – these Duratec engines are very sturdy.

Thanks to all for helping out.
 

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Inspected plugs today and they look normal and not black. Fuel rail pressure sensor vacuum hose no longer smells of gas. Oil no longer smells of gas. Car runs really well. With the recent hydrolocking and all the other neglected things on this car when we got it – these Duratec engines are very sturdy.

Thanks to all for helping out.
my duratec 2.0 is a monster. If you didn't, I would use a pvc elbow and route the air filter up into the area behind the fog light. I was getting water up my intake (filter gets wet and then it gets pulled through) since moving into the space where the oem filter was I've had no issues. I change the oil every ~4k miles with mobil1 and have no leaks and strong compression (190k miles). I'd suggest peaking at the pcv hose, it's very prone to cracking and is a huge vacuum leak. Also, did you change the spark plugs at any point?


Cal
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Yes, we have done that. Deleted the air filter housing and installed a cone filter on the pipe coming down from the resonator (enough clearance on manual trans), above the splash shield and loosely encased in a large modified Clorax bottle. PCV and hose seem okay. Since picking up the car in April we have done much more, Eg. changing or repairing, shocks, struts, motor mounts, battery, battery cover, valve cover gasket, leaky door seals and hatch, missing jack, side view mirror, heat shielding, drums and shoes, headlight housings, ground issues, wiper motor, blower motor resistor, all fluids, fuel filter, fog light housing, throttle body, TPS, MAP sensor, idler pulley, bulbs for cluster and middle tail light, transmission synchros, slave and throwout bearing (that took 3 weekends and we had a lot of help – in retrospect should have changed the rear main seal but didn’t). I spent a lot of time looking for parts on the internet or at junkyards and I may have missed some repairs but the car runs really good now with 156k on it. Still have a few things to take care of but it’s a reliable daily driver at this point. Did some light body prep and got a $800 Maaco paint job (Urethane + IC) - see the pics!
 

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