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Determine that your battery terminal connections are actually clean and tight. Try wiggling the tranny selector lever when you turn the ignition sw. to start. Also try starting with the gear selector in N and see if it consistantly starts. Enabling the starter operation only in P and N is a function of the transmission range sensor. In your video when it doesn't crank it seems to me that all your lights that normally should be illuminated with the ignition sw. "ON" were not illuminated and when it did crank all those lights were illuminated......or am I mistaken? That could be a clue. Have you tried your spare key? Also.....when it doesn't crank have someone wack the top of the main junction box (next to the battery) which is where the starter relay resides. More than one starter relay has caused this issue. Good Luck
 

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Determine that your battery terminal connections are actually clean and tight. Try wiggling the tranny selector lever when you turn the ignition sw. to start. Also try starting with the gear selector in N and see if it consistantly starts. Enabling the starter operation only in P and N is a function of the transmission range sensor. In your video when it doesn't crank it seems to me that all your lights that normally should be illuminated with the ignition sw. "ON" were not illuminated and when it did crank all those lights were illuminated......or am I mistaken? That could be a clue. Have you tried your spare key? Also.....when it doesn't crank have someone wack the top of the main junction box (next to the battery) which is where the starter relay resides. More than one starter relay has caused this issue. Good Luck
so you think it might be a starter relay? i don't have a spare key for this car.
 

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4F_gAspKaz8

need help with this do you guys know anything about this?
Hi elr2141979,

Grumpy gave you some pretty good tips, but if that doesn't help you pinpoint the cause, you may want to visit your local dealer to have it diagnosed. Try making the appointment for later in the day, when the temperature is the hottest, as that may help it occur while being inspected. If it doesn't act up, mention that you have a video so at least they can see what is happening, and what lights come on/remain off. Have a great afternoon!

~Natasha
 

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I know this thread is months old, but I had the same problem yesterday with my 2005 Ford Focus. I watched the three videos that you posted on your YouTube page about it. My car had the exact same problem. The engine wouldn't crank AT ALL when I turned the key but all of the dash lights and headlights worked fine. I went up to look under the hood, battery cables looked fine. Went back into the car, and tried starting it again. The engine cranked slowly but the engine started! [:)]

Anyway, I thought it was the starter also. Over the past two months the starter had been cranking the engine slower than usual before starting and starting the car was getting more rough. First thing I checked was the battery at AutoZone, and that was the ONLY problem with the car. The cold cranking amps were measured to be about 350, not the 630 or so the battery advertised. Bad battery. Swapped the bad battery with a new one, and now the car starts like the day it was new.

Hope you figured the problem out on your own. You likely didn't need the starter, but I almost made the same mistake. I thought since the lights didn't dim when I tried to start the car that the battery was just fine but that wasn't true. It takes hardly any amps to run the radio and the headlights, but a ton of amps for that little plastic acid filled battery to turn an engine over. It had been dying slowly over a couple months, and had finally refused to start the car. Also another note, the old battery that failed was about 4 and 1/2 years old and a Motorcraft product. If you battery is older than 3 or 4 years, its definitely worth checking out for free at an auto parts store [wiggle]
 
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