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Discussion Starter #21
Jason,
Based on your current observations your headlight system is working correctly except that your drivers side high beam is out. As previously posted I recommend that you swap the known good passenger side headlight bulb to the drivers side and drivers bulb to the passengers side and repeat the above observations.

Paul
I will swap my headlight bulbs out when I get home. But, I've changed the passenger headlight bulb twice in the past 2 months, and have not seen the passenger side high beam work once.

Do you think it could be the Headlight socket failing?
 

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I will swap my headlight bulbs out when I get home. But, I've changed the passenger headlight bulb twice in the past 2 months, and have not seen the passenger side high beam work once.

Do you think it could be the Headlight socket failing?
Yes, or perhaps a issue with the wire to the socket. Do the swap and we can go from there.

Paul
 

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Issue could also be a fuse as L&R uses seperate fuses. Please check fuse 27 (10A) in the BJB (Battery Junction Box) for the R (passenger) side. It is in the front row 1st from the right as you look at it.

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Issue could also be a fuse as L&R uses seperate fuses. Please check fuse 26 (10A) in the BJB (Battery Junction Box). It is in the front row 4th from the right as you look at it.

Paul
Paul, I swapped my driver side and passenger side headlight and got the same results.

It looks like checking the fuse is easier than replacing the headlight bulb socket. I won't have a chance to get to Auto Zone for a new fuse until tomorrow though.
 

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Please check the wiring in your headlight assembly. A multimeter would help you greatly. You need to figure out if your getting power to the headlight assembly a multimeter would diagnose this in 5 seconds.
If the headlight wiring is bad inside the headlight assembly you can get the light cheap from RockAuto.

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk
 

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Paul, I swapped my driver side and passenger side headlight and got the same results.

It looks like checking the fuse is easier than replacing the headlight bulb socket. I won't have a chance to get to Auto Zone for a new fuse until tomorrow though.
The fuse can be checked by just removing it and looking at it.




Or if you have a test light, DMM, etc you can test it without removing it.


Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Paul, I swapped my driver side and passenger side headlight and got the same results.

It looks like checking the fuse is easier than replacing the headlight bulb socket. I won't have a chance to get to Auto Zone for a new fuse until tomorrow though.
The fuse can be checked by just removing it and looking at it.




Or if you have a test light, DMM, etc you can test it without removing it.


Paul
I didn’t see any damage on the fuses, I’ll probably pick up that test light tomorrow thought. Also, it seems like I’m missing fuses, does this setup look correct to you?
 

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I didn’t see any damage on the fuses, I’ll probably pick up that teAst light tomorrow thought. Also, it seems like I’m missing fuses, does this setup look correct to you?
The fuse boxes are designed to encompass fuses and relays for all equipment configurations - not all vehicles have all equipment. Ive attached a pic of the BJB in my 2005 ZX4 5-speed. My fusebox has the Air Pump Relay (upper left), Fog Lamp Relay (upper right), Fuse 4 (30A, Air Pump, front row 4th from right), and Fuse 22 (20A, DRLs, front row 4th from left) that your car does not have. Otherwise they are the very similar. Im in MA so my car has the required PZEV engine with air pump (hence fuse and relay). Interestingly my car has the DRL fuse (22) but no DRLs (no DRL relay).

Please note that I amended my post above (post#23) to note that fuse 27 for the R (passenger) high beam is in the front row of your BJB 1st from right. You can see the two red 10A fuses (F26 and F27 L-R) for the L and R high beams respectively. Directly above them in the back row are the two 10A fuses (F16 and F17) for the L and R low beams respectively.

Paul
 

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How do I check this with a multimeter?
You want to check for voltage at the headlamp bulb connector contact which for the R (passenger side) is on the GRN/ORG wire. Turn the high beams on (verify that L side is on) and with multimeter set to DC volts connect the meter leads between the afore mentioned contact and battery ground. If working correctly the meter should read battery voltage (~12.6 VDC engine off, ~13.5 VDC engine running).

You can also use the multimeter to check the fuse (in addition to the visual inspection shown in my previous post). Set meter to ohms (resistance) and connect the two leads together and read the resistance - should be very close to 0 ohms. Now connect the two leads to the fuse blades - if the fuse is good the reading should be the same.

Paul
 

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You want to check for voltage at the headlamp bulb connector contact which for the R (passenger side) is on the GRN/ORG wire. Turn the high beams on (verify that L side is on) and with multimeter set to DC volts connect the meter leads between the afore mentioned contact and battery ground. If working correctly the meter should read battery voltage (~12.6 VDC engine off, ~13.5 VDC engine running).

You can also use the multimeter to check the fuse (in addition to the visual inspection shown in my previous post). Set meter to ohms (resistance) and connect the two leads together and read the resistance - should be very close to 0 ohms. Now connect the two leads to the fuse blades - if the fuse is good the reading should be the same.

Paul
Thanks for explaining it. I'm not the best at writing out how to necessarily do something.

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk
 

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'Just a reminder headlight could have melted connector inside.'

You physically eyeball the part for melting damage too, you need no meter for that part. I've seen both the socket and the outer plug-in to harness be heat distorted to pass casual inspection but the bulb contacts do not touch, then careful rebending of the contacts make the light go back to working. Ford now tends to use undersized wiring and contacts to show up heating at the contacts, then they slowly melt out of shape.
 

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Discussion Starter #35 (Edited)
Alright, I was able to check my fuses with the multimeter. They are working correctly. I was having trouble with checking the headlight socket. BUT, I did pull my headlight out and put it back in and the high beams on the passenger side worked for a second then stopped. Do you think that targets the socket as the issue?
 

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Discussion Starter #36 (Edited)
I also noticed that The headlight socket has been changed before. There is a bunch of electrical tape between the headlight socket and the wiring harness
 

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'Do you think that targets the socket as the issue?'

It screams it. I'd be peeling back the electrical tape if it looks like it was not standard going there to see what is covered up, likely a crap wire connection that needs a redo to make it back right. Someone has likely melted a socket there before and maybe a haphazard halfdone repair on it. Socket itself may be fine but not the wire connection.
 

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'Do you think that targets the socket as the issue?'

It screams it. I'd be peeling back the electrical tape if it looks like it was not standard going there to see what is covered up, likely a crap wire connection that needs a redo to make it back right. Someone has likely melted a socket there before and maybe a haphazard halfdone repair on it. Socket itself may be fine but not the wire connection.
+1

Paul
 
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