2005 Focus auto trans issues

659 Views 33 Replies 5 Participants Last post by b0bth0r, 4 d ago

b0bth0r

Discussion Starter · 13 d ago

Having an issue where at first glance I thought the transmission was slipping between the 2-3 shift and I had no record of when the trans was last serviced (I've owned the car for 4 years and half of that spent in Melbourne lockdown) so I changed the fluid/filter. It had a slightly burnt smell to it so I put in some lucas trans fix as well better safe than sorry but no change from the new fluid or the lucas. I also realized it was more like it was pausing in neutral for a couple seconds before shifting to 3rd, and not actually slipping. Everything else seems fine enough, can drive hard or gentle in second or third once it's in gear and no issues, just the shift. Also at some point the instrument cluster stopped showing what gear the transmission is in, not sure if this is pure coincidence that something else went wrong or somehow related?

All my research on these forums and google points to the solenoids, with the small chance that they can be dirty/sticking and NOT throw codes which is applicable to me as I've got no codes in either a cheap obd2 scanner or in forscan. I tried the cheap option of pulling the solenoids out and cleaning them with contact cleaner and compressed air, couldn't seem to make them open with a 9v battery like I've seen so not sure how well they've been cleaned overall. All of their resistance values seem to be within what they should be. This time the transmission fluid did not have any burnt smell to it at all, would have been maybe 200km (124 miles) on the fluid change if that's long enough to tell.

My next option is to buy some chinese solenoids off ebay as that's my only real option for 'new' in Australia that I can find. But before I go throwing money at it... does anyone with more experience think it could be something else? Some way to test or check what's going on to narrow it down to something other than guessing

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b0bth0r

Discussion Starter · #21 · 11 d ago

amc49 said:
The 1-2 delay could be more sign the band needs adjusting...............

Does that mean getting an adjustable bolt and following the instructions on page 86 of the repair manual and hope for the best before starting with an end cover and clutch assembly?
I'm happy to try that first, only thing being figuring out where in this country I can find one...

Reactions: 1

pbfoot

· #22 · 11 d ago

b0bth0r said:
Does that mean getting an adjustable bolt and following the instructions on page 86 of the repair manual and hope for the best before starting with an end cover and clutch assembly?
I'm happy to try that first, only thing being figuring out where in this country I can find one...

Yes!

amc49

· #23 · 11 d ago

I made my own adjustable kickdown band setting bolt. The location is under battery plate.

Page 86 yes, as said. Use steps 58 and 59 to set the band.

Reactions: 2

b0bth0r

Discussion Starter · #24 · 11 d ago

amc49 said:
I made my own adjustable kickdown band setting bolt. The location is under battery plate.

Page 86 yes, as said. Use steps 58 and 59 to set the band.

That's what I wanna hear. I've already contacted one shop that has the bolt on their website and they don't have any stock, with 2 other places I was going to check today but I'm not optimistic and ordering from USA will probably take a few weeks and double the cost...
So if I may, what did you use to make your own adjustable bolt? and would standard off the shelf 316 stainless hardware be suitable or would I need something better?

Reactions: 1

amc49

· #25 · 10 d ago

A regular steel metric bolt works fine. Got bolt at Ace Hardware. Use the bolt in place for the thread match. Contour the end just like the bolt coming out, and smooth it. Too sharp a tip will punch through band material with time, round it just like the original. IIRC I used an aluminum or copper washer to hold the o-ring in place and to seal since the material is softer.

Reactions: 2

machgo

· #26 · 8 d ago

This thread has my interest as my trans exhibits some of these issues at 190,000 miles.

Don't know if this helps, but if it does, Amazon should be able to get to you in a timely manner...

www.amazon.com

Amazon.com: Transmaxx Superior K0121 Band Pin & Nut, Adjustable 4F27E : Automotive

Buy Transmaxx Superior K0121 Band Pin & Nut, Adjustable 4F27E: Transmissions & Parts - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

Reactions: 1

b0bth0r

Discussion Starter · #27 · 8 d ago

machgo said:
This thread has my interest as my trans exhibits some of these issues at 190,000 miles.

Don't know if this helps, but if it does, Amazon should be able to get to you in a timely manner...

Amazon.com: Transmaxx Superior K0121 Band Pin & Nut, Adjustable 4F27E : Automotive

Buy Transmaxx Superior K0121 Band Pin & Nut, Adjustable 4F27E: Transmissions & Parts - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

That's what I was trying to get, but unfortunately the option to buy from amazon isn't available as I'm in Australia and it would take weeks to get here even if they did, and no other place has it in stock here. I've heard you can use the adjustable band bolt from certain Nissan transmissions, but I'm not about to go hunting junkyards to find one and no one sells new. Naturally, I decided to make my own version in the same style. So far over the last few days I've been to at least 5 different bolt stores and as anyone would guess, the exact grub screw style would take weeks to order in, socket cap bolts only come with just not enough thread and no more, and just generally there aren't many options for m10x1.25 hardware here. I could just cut the head off of a fully threaded hex head bolt and cut a slot to use a flat head bit for torquing the bolt itself but that's just too easy... Instead I'm using this opportunity to practice awful fabrication. I'll update if frankenbolt works.

In other news I've learned just how good phosphoric acid is at removing zinc plating from bolts, without the nasty of hydrochloric acid. There's no demand for non-plated bolts so no one carries many options other than zinc plated or stainless, so I have the opportunity to pay more for the zinc plating so I can remove it.

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b0bth0r

Discussion Starter · #28 · 7 d ago

Frankenbolt is in and I did a little local test driving. The minute 1-2 shift delay feels like it's gone, the 2-3 delay I'm struggling to tell if it's fully gone but it is most definitely better. I wasn't going up to highway speeds for a real test since it's peak hour traffic at the moment but I tried rowing up and down with the gear select as I drove and I wasn't getting the serious 2-3 slip. Until further driving I'll say it's... better! I am noticing that downshifting into 1st and maybe downshifting when you push it harder is a bit more clunky, but could be a bad mount. Already replaced the clunky upper engine mount last year so wouldn't be surprised.

Frankenbolt! The two on the left combined forces to make the fine specimen on the right, next to the factory bolt (the furthest on the right, if they're too hard to tell factory quality apart from mine). I cut the socket cap head and a bit of shank off one and welded to the longer threaded portion of the hex head bolt, and used the remaining portion of the socket cap bolt to make the smaller shank on the bottom and welded that on. 8mm hex bit to tighten and torque the bolt, then a 16mm deep socket fits over it to torque the nut down. Also to note, the adjustable band bolts only get backed off 1.5 turns, the band bolt selector guage gets backed off 3.5 turns.

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pbfoot

· #29 · 7 d ago

Good job! Glad AMC49 helped you out

b0bth0r

Discussion Starter · #30 · 6 d ago

Did a more proper driving test today, there's still a very slight delay in the 2-3 shift. Not sure if that is just wear I need to accept, or if I should try tightening the band a little further? I'm just concerned about causing problems from making it too tight

But even as is though, drivability is incredibly better from just a 'bolt'

Reactions: 1

amc49

· #31 · 6 d ago

If you hit the spec you can go maybe 1/8-1/4 turn closer.

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b0bth0r

Discussion Starter · #32 · 5 d ago

Did somewhere thereabouts closer, seems to have brought back in a very marginal delay in 1-2 and maybe marginally reduced the very reduced 2-3 delay, its real hard to tell but tonight is colder and wetter and I did a drive without warming the car up first so maybe it could be just that and nothing really changed. I'm wondering if the adjustable bolt taking away 90% of the problem means I likely need a new (or less worn) band, or if it's only part of the issue/the adjustment is just a bandaid for the worn clutch/end cover.

amc49

· #33 · 5 d ago

The band likely has plenty left. They usually crack or break the ends off before they wear out.

Band not really affected by cover wear but the direct clutch is for sure. Worn cover wears reverse and direct the most. The 2-3 shift is one half band, the first half of the shift and then direct is the second half.

A test for direct is easy. Let car get stone cold. Then start it up and drive away LIGHTLY, using barely any throttle and letting the computer make each shift while crawling through say a parking lot. Count the gears and when going slowly into the third one pay particular attention to if the engine has a slight flareup or rpm runaway for a fractional second then it goes fully into third and done. That is direct clutch wear letting the engine rar up like that. It will ONLY do it the one time, the clutch then fills fully with fluid and will not do it again. When sitting cold the fluid drains out of the clutchpack due to circuit leaks, likely where the direct clutch seals are at the end cover. The problem shows up easier in winter.

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b0bth0r

Discussion Starter · #34 · 4 d ago

I wouldn't call my test as scientific as you might want it to be, but I went out and drove real easy down the backstreet to get to 3rd and there was that slight flareup in both the 1-2 and 2-3. Once everything warmed up it was less flareup and more of a thump in the 2-3 if driving with a light foot. It's not a violent thump by any means, but I swear it goes through the floor and I feel it under the drivers seat (the right side of the car). I guess that's likely the end cover wear? And maybe compounded with mounts, I'll have to have a look at those regardless.

For reference, it is nearly winter here in Australia, it's mostly in the 50s. Winter doesn't get too much colder though, more like the New York springs I had for the first 30 years of living. Don't miss the snow or the salt. The lack of rust is phenomenal!

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