Focus Fanatics Forum banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Ok, had a neighbor bring this one in. 2.3 w/man ..hit a curb and busted the oil filter.....found oil pump shafts were discoloured and timing chain had too much slack in it. Did everything in-chassis..had everything buttoned up but didn't put the serp belt, coolant overflow back as I wanted to hear the motor run prior to finishing up. Took a couple of tries but motor fires, stumbles and then cleans itself up to a nice purr. Shut her off, put the serp belt on, overflow and brought her off the jackstands.

Tried to start the car and all it would do is turn over....can hear fuel pump,even waited 10 sec w/key in run position...nada

disconnected fuel line at rail (covered w/cloth and neg disconnected on the batt)...PLENTY of fuel pressure.

re-connected and tried start...nada

removed COP from cyl #4, grabbed spare spk plug and took a piece of wire from the strut bolt (bare ground) and wrapped around threads of plug....NICE FAT BLUE spark....put COP back on #4 cyl and tried starting again. NADA

Well, crap.....disconnected ground from batt and went in to have dinner.

Came back out 2hrs later and re-connected batt and tried starting....she would still only turn over but not run.

WTF?????? why did it run in the first place????? I can hear the fuel pump working, I have spark

What I don't have is a code reader....but if I reset the ECU, why did it not start like before?

Help!!! I need to get this out so I can get my other projects going....been 2 months but mostly due to the snow and my garage hasn't been over 30 degrees in almost 9wks!!!

ps....it was a nice balmy 56 degrees in my garage yesterday and the day before.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
534 Posts
Perhaps the spark plugs are wet from the short run. Years ago I found that if I started a car and it only ran for a minute or two, that it was somewhat more difficult to restart. Try holding the throttle all the way open while you crank it. When the throttle is completely open while cranking, the PCM interprets that as a signal to skip opening the fuel injectors with an effect similar to holding a caburetor wide open while cranking to air out a flooded engine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I will give that a try after work....

BTW....Is there any way to pull the codes from the dash cluster on this car???
 

·
Sückn' n Blown
Joined
·
7,747 Posts
I know you've been working on this for a while...

So you got spark, you got fuel. Just to double check, is it in time? I mean, is the crank position sensor in the right spot, camshaft position sensor operational (not even sure how to test that), and plug wires on currect plugs?

I mean, if you got fuel and spark, what else could be stopping you?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Ahhh....therein lies the question.... Is any of the sensors throwing a code that would not allow the injectors to fire?

Dunno....hence my earlier question about pulling codes. Can this be done without a scanner? I have a laptop as well..(haven't looked at the access port for the scanner but most have been a standard 9pin).
 

·
Sückn' n Blown
Joined
·
7,747 Posts
You can do the digital ODO trick, but I've never tried it.

http://www.focusfanatics.com/howtos/electronicodometer/

About getting it scanned; the 2.3l uses a CANbus network, and the majority of scanners won't work. So you'll need a new style scanner to get the codes. If you have an Xcalibrator 2, or if you know someone who does, those can code scan as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Cool, I will give that a try. Does anyone have the gap spec for the crank sensor?

BTW....If you ever want to do a repair such as replacing the timing chain in one of the '05....It can be done in chassis.....just wait till the weather is above 30 degrees.......really sucks when you break the plastic connectors on the fuel rail when the temps are below zero.....not to mention your skin sticking to every metal surface there is....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Ok.....pulled the plugs and all were wet. [eek] air'd them out, pulled the fuse (13 15AMP) and got it to run on what seemed to be 2 cylinders and let it die on it's own.[confused] Re-inserted the fuse and tried to start...all 4 cylinders were soaked again. Put the pedal to the floor and she tries to start but when the engine starts to catch, it will die.[???:)]

Pulled the only 2 codes from the dash and came up with

9589
9318 - Low batt....gee I wonder why.....on charger now.

WTH??? Played with the cam sensor and crank sensor and was able to alter the number of turns to start but couldn't get it to run....[?|] [?|]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,147 Posts
if the crank sensor is damaged the car will start by using the cam sensor. it takes a longer to start but it will. if the cam sensor is damaged it wont start at all. check for damaged wiring, connectors, pulled termanls at the connectors. shorted wires. best way to check the sensor if it getting a reading is w/ a WDS or IDS scan tool at the dealer or any other scan tool that can read pids
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
hmmm....can they test the sensors off the car? I am well over 75 miles from anything out here in the boonies.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Guess not....anyone have a spare set of sensors for sale? I went through last night and pulled all 4 COP's off and tested them...all give a nice fat spark.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top