[novfoc]

Got a P2004 Code on my 2004 Focus ZX3; 2.3L

I'm not familiar with this one but have read that on other years and models, this has been as simple as replacing a vacuum hose.


Any guidance as to what to inspect/look for - ways to troubleshoot before spending a few hundred bucks at a shop just for them to run a code checker and search for solutions the same way would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

 

[Marde]

It is usually (1) IMRC Solenoid is defective or (2) yep, vac hose got yanked-off/broken at Solenoid or at the Actuator.

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=223709

Here is what the solenoid looks like;
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005S0BNYE...e=df0&creative=395109&creativeASIN=B005S0BNYE

 

[novfoc]

Assuming i'm looking in the right place:

A quick inspection didn't identify any major cracks/displacement on the hoses at the top end. Are these the only ones to look at?

And heres a look at the whole engine compartment

 

[Marde]

Your first pic link is broken.

Check vac hose connection onto the IMRC actuator. Hose connection onto the actuator is shown in center bottom of pic below.

Pic is a 2.0 intake manifold, not your 2.3

 

[novfoc]

I may slowly be striking out here:

And another shot showing around the curve in the hose


Other places to look / ways to test anything? Worthwhile to try to snake the whole hose out and inspect it better or not worth it if theres no current visual indications of any problems?

 

[Marde]

I forgot to mention...

Your 2.3 has two solenoids on top of the IM.

One is for IMRC
One is for IMTV

With two solenoids; this allows your to replace one solenoid with the other (so swap em'). If IMRC begins to work & the P2004 goes away, you have confirmed that the IMRC solenoid is defective.

If the IMTV system fails, the PCM does not have a feedback system in place for it; which means the PCM does not know it failed AND does not set a DTC for IMTV failure.

 

[novfoc]

Is there an engine diagram / map / schematic available that can help me identify these so i can run this test?

 

[Marde]

I may slowly be striking out here:

And another shot showing around the curve in the hose


Other places to look / ways to test anything? Worthwhile to try to snake the whole hose out and inspect it better or not worth it if theres no current visual indications of any problems?

That is one very clear and very close-up pic. Yes, it looks OK. Vac hose could still possibly be leaking "in the middle" if damaged. A leak in the middle of the hose can set a P2004.

After you do the Solenoid Swap test.... Without fully removing the hose from the car, you could still (temporarily) replace it with some vac hose sold at local car part store (by the foot) and should only cost a couple bucks.

Diagram not needed yet. Use this pic and swap the solenoids. Bolts are TORX bits, maybe T25.

 

[sailor]

To pop in for a sec, that's the hose which failed on mine when I got that code (intermittent for a while). Removing the hose at the vacuum solenoid end & sucking on it to vacuum operate the actuator was the clue - couldn't get enough vacuum to move it so either the hose or the actuator had to be leaking.

Split in hose wasn't visible, even from a great location like that picture's.

 

[novfoc]

So If I swap these two:

What/when would i be able to tell if it worked? IE: When will the code clear itself, or would i then expect it to trigger a different code?

 

[sailor]

Code will be stored until cleared, but it won't be "active" and the tumble flaps would work (IMRC) with the IMTV not working & no code as Marde mentioned (assuming one bad solenoid).

Can't disconnect & reconnect and have them work right away BTW - needs shut down & restart before they attempt to work again if not functioning properly.

 

[novfoc]

Code will be stored until cleared, but it won't be "active" and the tumble flaps would work (IMRC) with the IMTV not working & no code as Marde mentioned (assuming one bad solenoid).

Can't disconnect & reconnect and have them work right away BTW - needs shut down & restart before they attempt to work again if not functioning properly.

Thanks, though I think I'm going to need some more clarification. While the tumble flaps would work, its not as if I can see this visually, so what indication would i be looking at for confirmation this worked? And what do you mean in regards to restarting?

 

[sailor]

When it's all together, you can JUST see the joints of the lever arms for the intake controls without sticking your nose right in there - so movement can be confirmed with the car running in the driveway.

Behind the throttle body the IMRC joint shows, it'll be up when off & disappears when the car is started if vacuum gets to the actuator. Rev. it up a bit by hand at the TB and see it reappear. (white round joint)

Below & slightly left of the TB you can see the joint of the IMTV, partially hidden by a protector at your right facing the car. Green pin through the black joint IIRC makes it easier to see. That one takes more revs to see it move, IMRC moves soon after revving a bit & the IMTV reacts at higher rpm - just within the range that's OK for revving without scaring you in neutral.


As far as the restart comment goes, I learned when unplugging the vacuum solenoids that the system want a reset by turning the car off before they'll work right again once you mess with them.

Pull that hose from the front at the solenoid for the IMRC to apply suction to see if the actuator works - I needed a spare piece of hose to attach to that to make applying suction easier. (too short to bend right down & suck on it - the easy check when a vacuum pump isn't avail.)

 

[novfoc]

With the car off, I pulled this tube. WHen doing so, I heard an audible pop. I presume it means there was vacuum, then pulling the tube removed it?

If so, what are the implications of this in the troubleshooting/baselining, if any?

Thanks


Also, I believe I have a green joint (IMTV?) and a black joint (IMRC), in the black. Its got a roundness to it so I presume its the right thing. The green joint appears to be forward/up; and the black joint is definitely is up with the car off (currently)

 

[sailor]

You've got the two joints straight as to type, with that green one down in front & the IMRC (tumbler flaps, related to your code) in back.

The hose pictured supplies vacuum from the manifold to the solenoid, only "pop" when shut off should be the rubber hose moving as it's pulled off (no vacuum without engine running).

Time to start it up & see what they do while running, both at idle & when you rev it up (throttle control under plastic cover, you can reach in from the driver's side to rev it up - look at where the cables enter at their holder).

 

[novfoc]

The green one is all the way forward with the car off. Once the car is turned on, it gets pulled in towards the engine, then as the car idles, slowly moves back towards the front (but not all the way).


The one in the back (black?) moved slightly the first time i turned the car on, but after that I did not notice it moving at idle or when revving

 

[Marde]

The green one is all the way forward with the car off. Once the car is turned on, it gets pulled in towards the engine, then as the car idles, slowly moves back towards the front (but not all the way).


The one in the back (black?) moved slightly the first time i turned the car on, but after that I did not notice it moving at idle or when revving

If it slowly moved, returning up some; IT SHOULD NOT. This is visual confirmation that your IMRC system is messed-up.

With car off; both actuator arms are in the UP position. Turn on engine and at idle = arms go DOWN. Rev engine and hold at about 2500-3000 rpm for 2 or 3 seconds = both arms go UP, release throttle, arms return to Down.

Arms are either UP or DOWN and are never "in the middle".

Did you swap the 2 solenoids; as recommended earlier in this thread?

 

[sailor]

Well, you've proven you have problems as that's not correct.

The rear black one that connects to a white lever should stay down when started, only moving up when revs are increased.

The green in front moves similarly, only at higher RPM.

I've only had problems with the first (that's the IMRC black ended actuator) which WILL give that code when not operating properly.

Try removing the hoses that lead sideways off the solenoids to apply vacuum to the hoses (suck on them, extra hose to fit may make that easier). My IMRC had a poor (split) hose to the actuator, a bit of a job to replace but a cheap repair.

Access to the IMRC actuator requires throttle body removal, cables do NOT need to be disconnected. I removed it for checking, easiest to replace the hose on it before re-mounting (feed the hose through while installing).

If they operate fine when vacuum is applied to their hoses, Marde's suggestion of swapping solenoids to see if that changes operation would apply. (They're pricey, not to be replaced on a guess)




Dang Marde, here we go typing together again. I had to run out to remind myself by testing mine, just to be certain my memory was correct (snow & all).

 

[novfoc]

no, i havent swapped them yet.

so what i want to do now is, take off this hose?

then suck the air out of the hose, and see if the joint retracts?

 

[sailor]

It would be the same location hose on the other solenoid for the IMRC (tumble flap) actuator pictured.