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Discussion Starter #1
Would appreciate any insight on this current issue.. when in Low idle while at a light the car occasionally stalls after the interior exterior lights flicker for a few seconds..
.. another issue is I could be cruising and all the sudden there's a "boom" and the check engine light comes on.. there's a quick loss of power but its regained in 2-3 seconds..
Had the alternator changed recently and new battery and all the cables are hooked up properly. Sensors? Fuel Pump? any feedback would be great.. novice here so I'll have to find a good ford guy in Socal... Thanks!
 

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Yuk, whata' mess. Sounds like more than one problem. Also sounds like an electrical charging/powering problem, which might include some bad connections or wires touching each other (shorting out).

One first step (and Free) is to perform a slow and careful visual inspection of the engine bay for damaged wires, or bad looking connections; i.e., corrosion or dirty, funky-oily? Any chance you could take about 5 or 6 detailed pics of your engine bay and post them here?

Next, take your car to a big name car part store and they will scan your car for free. Write down the DTC's that are found and post them here.


... another issue is I could be cruising and all the sudden there's a "boom" and the check engine light comes on.. there's a quick loss of power but its regained in 2-3 seconds..
Are you in East LA? Are you absolutely sure those are not gun shots?
 

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You need to repair the engine operating problem IMHO.

Flickering lights aren't unusual when it is running very slowly & about to stall.

How long since any maint.?

This could be as simple as needing new spark plugs (or wires, or coil, or coil connector, going up through the list of common ignition failures).

When it stops running on a cylinder, gasoline is still going in there & it can light off in the tailpipe/CAT converter to cause a "boom".

That CEL Marde mentioned you need checked is trying to save you, damage can add up fast if you don't fix it.
 

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^^ Yes sir, good points.

Hey Lasurferguy, please answer on the items Sailor asked about. Also, your car might have a Zetec or Duratec engine, do you know which one?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes, I just went down to check wires and take pics.. I'll post them as soon as I get to work.. I couldn't see any problems though
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well, I get it serviced pretty regularly actually which is why I'm surprised this happened. There's no check engine light on currently.




You need to repair the engine operating problem IMHO.

Flickering lights aren't unusual when it is running very slowly & about to stall.

How long since any maint.?

This could be as simple as needing new spark plugs (or wires, or coil, or coil connector, going up through the list of common ignition failures).

When it stops running on a cylinder, gasoline is still going in there & it can light off in the tailpipe/CAT converter to cause a "boom".

That CEL Marde mentioned you need checked is trying to save you, damage can add up fast if you don't fix it.
 

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DTC's (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) should still be stored even if the light is not currently on. A "severe misfire" is one that throws a light immediately due to the possibility of additional damage if it continues. Light can go out when it stops.

With something as simple as spark plug replacement being at 100,000 these days, it's possible for problems to develop without anything more than an oil change done for a long time.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks You all for your replies.. Its making me get more involved and not feeling like catastrophe.. I do get reg maaintenenc and I mast has the timing belt changed about 2 months go.


You need to repair the engine operating problem
IMHO.

Flickering lights aren't unusual when it is running very slowly & about to stall.

How long since any maint.?

This could be as simple as needing new spark plugs (or wires, or coil, or coil connector, going up through the list of common ignition failures).

When it stops running on a cylinder, gasoline is still going in there & it can light off in the tailpipe/CAT converter to cause a "boom".

That CEL Marde mentioned you need checked is trying to save you, damage can add up fast if you don't fix it.
Yuk, whata' mess. Sounds like more than one problem. Also sounds like an electrical charging/powering problem, which might include some bad connections or wires touching each other (shorting out).

One first step (and Free) is to perform a slow and careful visual inspection of the engine bay for damaged wires, or bad looking connections; i.e., corrosion or dirty, funky-oily? Any chance you could take about 5 or 6 detailed pics of your engine bay and post them here?

Next, take your car to a big name car part store and they will scan your car for free. Write down the DTC's that are found and post them here.




Are you in East LA? Are you absolutely sure those are not gun shots?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I pulled all the coils and connectors and checked em out.. I remember about six months or so ago a friend throwing a computer reader on and said that there was an issue with a 02 sensors but not enough of a problem. Weird, when i drove it this am, there was water leading out of the muffler.. I've never seen that before.. not out of the tail pipe but more in the bigger part of the muffler (where that last part of the tail pipe exits the vehicle.. there was like a 5" small water puddle... hmmm I do love this car though.. more than most
 

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The most frequent Zetec engine problems are cracks in the coil-pack. Multiple different symptoms arise from tiny cracks in the body of the coil pack. Since yours is covered in dirt, it will be worth your time to take it out, clean it, and inspect it VERY closely.

Leaking water out of the tail pipe is OK. Leaking water out of the exhaust at a different location; suggests a hole that should not be there.
 

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Ok, i'll do that today.. wow.. thanks so much..I love this car... have had so many fast expensive stupid cars.. this thing is amazing.. I can get surfboards, bikes, furniture and camp in it.. I will get another for sure.. Ill see what that does and keep you posted, thanks again..
Joe
 

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Battery cable connections look like they need a little TLC -clean-up. Also, follow the black/negative cable from the battery down to the right (drivers side wheel well) and disconnect it from the frame. Clean and re-connect. <-Before you do that, disconnect the battery side, -for less sparks and fires.
 

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Another thing it could be is the idle air control valve but i do agree in checking the coil pack. Mine was stalling, so i cleaned the IAC and helped for awhile but it happened again and I changed it out for a new one(After having them send me the wrong part -_-) and it works great. But it also wasn't idling very well, and once i would get past 3500 RPM's it seemed like the throttle was sticking because the valve wouldn't open and close correctly.
 

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(I'd like to find a nice Wagon...)

Puddle from exh. is common, muffler has drain hole intentionally for condensation to leak out. You see it more when the weather is cool, and it stops when the exh. heats up & all the vapor goes out the end. (fire it up cold & let it idle, you'll get drips every time).

One less worry...
 

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(I'd like to find a nice Wagon...)
I'll let you have first dibs on mine, -but not until after I find the ghost in the machine. Might take another year or two based on my slow progress so far. One problem with the sale; the car will be worth $15,000 to me and only $2,999 in the real world.

I almost jumped ship last week when I saw a good deal on a local private-party clean 2012 ATX hatch. Love love love MTX but too lazy to shift.

Hey, thanks for the lesson, I did not know about the drain hole on the muffler.
 
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