Focus Fanatics Forum banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

I am looking into buying a 2002 zx3 with auto transmission. I test drove it yesterday and the owner of it now said that it would soon need a new transmission mount. but when i was driving it i put it into reverse and it seemed like nothing happened the car kind of moved forward and then jolted into reverse. while in reverse it was really shaky and was kind of making me hesitant as to whether i should go through with buying it. can the transmission mount cause this? or can the transmission filter and/or oil be replaced and it will be fine as i have read on here..I looked at the tranny mount and it doesnt look bad..I didnt have any thing to try and move it to see if it was wobbly though..Im open to all suggestions.

Thanks guys
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
44,595 Posts
Moved to General Tech Chat for more looks

Doesn't sound good to me, did you post in engine & trans swap originally to get an idea what a used trans swapped in would cost????

Mount would have nothing to do with the symptoms described.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well the owner said that the Tranny mount needed to be replaced. So I was going to replace all three. The two motor mounts and the tranny mount also he said the tranny filter and fluid needed replaced so I was going to do that. I also noticed that the reverse lights don't work. What do you suggest?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,464 Posts
A previous owner making sure you know the trans needs a fluid change is a big warning sign to me....................that and nothing else? Seems like someone is dancing around possible tranny troubles here. Did you ever think to look at trans fluid color? If dark or black you got it coming there.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
44,595 Posts
I'd suggest not buying it, to put it simply.

Crapshoot on that trans, major repair or replacement could be needed.

Is this a $500 special you're willing to put major $ & effort into repairing?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
well I've looked into replacing the mounts and the filter..im expecting to spend about 200 on parts and replace them myself. the fluid is a red brown in color. I drove it and it drove fine. no slipping in and out of gear or anything. just the jolt. which only happened the first time then i just held my foot on the brake for a second and it was fine just a shaky gas pedal and front end which is the a clear sign of the bad tranny mount. my concern though is that Ive read that it can be an easy fix by just replacing the filter and/or the mounts. or it could be the tranny gone bad and it would be 1500-2000 to replace. or more.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
Since we haven't seen it we can't really say if this is the problem or not and depending on what is being asked for the vehicle it seems like abit of a gamble. Personally, if you are still thinking of proceeding it would be a good idea to take it to a mechanic you trust to have it inspected, if the current owner isn't hiding anything they shouldn't have an issue with this. You can never be to careful when buying a used car from anyone, and given the issues present it would probably be a good idea, if not to just confirm that what is reported to be the issue is in fact the issue.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
44,595 Posts
but when i was driving it i put it into reverse and it seemed like nothing happened the car kind of moved forward and then jolted into reverse. while in reverse it was really shaky and was kind of making me hesitant as to whether i should go through with buying it. can the transmission mount cause this? or can the transmission filter and/or oil be replaced and it will be fine as i have read on here..
This quote made us wonder (along with the reverse lights not working).

Fluid replacement doesn't fix much by itself, not going into gear normally & shaking in gear are bad signs as is the burnt fluid you described later.

All we've got to go on are your descriptions, describing an automatic as not working right results in a "don't buy" recommendation from anyone reading it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The guy started at 1900 for the car and I got him down to 1500. With all this being said I may try and get him down to 1200. If The mounts and filter is the problem then it'll be a steal. If not I'll lose 900 dollars if I scrap it. Any more suggestions? I just want to know if the parts I have said could be causing the problems I have discussed.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
44,595 Posts
Vibration can DEFINITELY be caused by bad mounts, and even a bit of a "bang" putting it in drive & reverse. Not the one you described earlier for reverse as in not doing anything then suddenly engaging though.

Reading back again, the shaky front end/gas pedal when driving could be things other than mounts, the mount issue is either vibration &/or some thump when going into drive reverse for passenger side & rear lower mount respectively. (Wheels/tires, suspension etc.)

Up to you, you're looking at it & we aren't so it's hard to give much feedback from limited info..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well I think the problem was that I took my foot off the break quick and then hit the gas and it hadn't got into gear yet. I'm going tomorrow to look at it again as it was dark when I drove it and looked at it. But If I do decide to buy it do you think that changing the mounts would fix the problem? Because really that's my only concern.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
I don't mean to sound rude, but as it has been said again and again, we only have your descriptions to go on. As sailor said, it very well could be part of the issue, but we have NO way of verifying this as we can't not actually see the vehicle ourselves, so it is really your gamble.

To quote sailor on one point though "Vibration can DEFINITELY be caused by bad mounts, and even a bit of a "bang" putting it in drive & reverse. Not the one you described earlier for reverse as in not doing anything then suddenly engaging though.", not going into gear correctly could be a sign of other issues present.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,464 Posts
'Well I think the problem was that I took my foot off the break quick and then hit the gas and it hadn't got into gear yet.'

Should have mentioned this before, you just cured your own problem.........

Back to 'other issues'........

Well, hydraulic wear issues of course. Reverse truly delaying going into gear is because trans can't get fluid (low, or none) or there are wear issues that force circuit to fill back up before it then activates, or dead clutch pack. The 4F27E is noted for rear cover wear issues that affect reverse first, trans has to come apart.

I second the Dokuzon post, the indirectness and even I'd have to say incompetent wording of many postings here onsite cause people a sh-tload of grief whether due to lack of patience doing the typing or lack of knowledge of cars. Often both. Just like at the garage it becomes more a problem of pulling competent information out of the car owner to be able to tell what is wrong most likely and that is usually harder than the actual work fixing the car. No insult implied or intended here of course.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
44,595 Posts
I'm glad amc chimed in, I would have been commenting on the same potential issues.

Until proven otherwise, the assumption should be that the trans. is junk & needs to be replaced. So add the 1,200-2,000 you mentioned earlier to the price of the car & decide if it's worth it then.

I remember a thread where a current owner had the same issue with his daughter's car. Replaced the rear cover & got it working again, it made it 500 miles & grenaded itself - as in picking up pieces off the road. THEN it got a replacement from the junkyard.

Looking at night? Just as good as in the rain, best time to check out a car. I'm seeing assumptions about what will "fix" it, and a desire to have those confirmed. Sad experience tells most of us that a fix isn't a sure thing until completed & tested, THEN we can guess that it may have done the trick.

We're not TRYING to rain on your parade, it's just the caution from experience talking since we know ANY car can be a money pit with multiple problems - some tragically expensive. Anything with known issues needs a CLOSE look from someone experienced with it for an attempt to determine the repairs necessary. And then it's still a guess that could be wrong, never on the cheaper side.

Go ahead & take a closer look & better test drive in the daylight if you desire, the current description is of a car suitable for "Field Car" use only - drive it off road 'till it drops & is scrapped.

Harsh? Maybe.

Been there & done that with junk I should never have purchased. What a car WAS isn't important. The current condition is all that matters, no matter how nice the car once was or how nice you imagine you could make it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,464 Posts
X2, wishful thinking is for the young, they have enough time left to be able to recover from the incurred damage of it. The only thing worse is self bullsh-t...........old guys like us have no time for that.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
44,595 Posts
Gad, the first POS I actually bought was worse then the first one I wanted to - and that one didn't even have brakes. (just needed a rusted line replaced, right?)

First one actually purchased turned out to not even have a sound frame. Lots of steel I cut & welding donated by a friend of my Father for that problem alone. Heck, the lack of water in the radiator was explained when I found the head nuts only torqued to 15lbs. instead of 105. They didn't put coolant in so it would run when I looked at it.
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top