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Hi guys. Recently bought a pretty rough 2002 SVT for my sons first car. I am surprising him with it on Saturday the 27th and am trying to get it to a bare minimum acceptable quality before the reveal. All of the small issues we can do together.

Bought it with a bad power steering pump (locked up and tweaked the pulley). Replaced the pump and lines, new serpentine, and she fired right up. It hadn't been run in a while, so I was not too surprised with the rough idle. (FYI - Got paperwork on the timing belt being replaced by PO as I know that's job 1 on these).

Cooling Fan - The PO had issues with overheating from the fan not working. So he bought an aftermarket single fan and rigged it to a switch inside the cabin where he could flip it on as needed (yikes). I'm going to a pull-n-pay to get a factory dual fan, hooking everything back to stock and troubleshooting from there for the real fix. I know common culprits are relay, resistor & connector, and the block temp sensor. That cover it?

Rough Idle - Going to replace plugs/wires, check PCV valve/hoses, air filter, fuel filter and MAF sensor to start. Any other low hanging fruit I should address?

Thanks in advance!
 

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Replace the vacuum lines. The hard lines at the back of the manifold that feed the purge valve solenoid and the fuel rail get crumbly. Sitting is always hard on the fuel system. Add a little fuel injection cleaner and drive it a little before throwing parts at it. Everything you listed is probably needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the reply.

Got the new to me fan assy installed, new failsafe 180 thermo and coolant temp sensor. While doing that, noticed that the boot from the airbox to the intake was missing the clamp and had worked it's way off. I assume air not passing the maf was an issue. It seems to be running smooth now, but hot.

The gauge cluster has been glitchy, but when I ran it this time, the oil temp held steady but the water temp is barely registering, but there is no doubt she's running hot. The lines are super hot and if I run the heater in the car I get the same. The passenger side fan did kick on eventually, but not the drivers. Also, heat only blows at max, AC kicks off at 4?!? I think that's that common resistor issue?
Shut her down, and here I am.


Is there a block temp sensor as well? Which feeds the gauge that doesnt seem to be working and perhaps the fans?
 

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Plug at the back of the alternator is a known issue. Can make the gauges act crazy. There is a sensor at the back of the block as well as on top of the thermostat housing. Fan resistor does sound bad. Easy fix.
 

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Both fans work as one, both on low speed or both on high.

Coils change as fast as plugs (maybe even more) on these, look for hairline cracks in bright sunlight everywhere on it, finding them coil is junk. They overheat way too easy and why the cracks.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Both fans work as one, both on low speed or both on high.

Coils change as fast as plugs (maybe even more) on these, look for hairline cracks in bright sunlight everywhere on it, finding them coil is junk. They overheat way too easy and why the cracks.
Interesting, thanks. I definitely had just passenger side fan kick on though. I replaced the resistor before installing the fan for good measure. Based on the wiring, isnt the passenger side 'downstream'? Was thinking connector/wiring, but....
 

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Both fans work as one, both on low speed or both on high.
I dont think thats correct , there is a Low Speed and a High Speed Fan the Low speed wont come on till 208 deg the high speed wont come on till 246 deg so High Speed wont come on for a good bit if ever if the low speed does its job and everything in the engine is up to par

Tom
 

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It takes 10-15 min of idle (or longer, it depends on outside weather) from a cold engine before a high speed fan turns on for it self.

There is a debug mode you can put the gauge cluster into which will report the "values" the ECU is reading/interpreting. This is has the same options and method for the 2005 as it was for the 2000-2004.
 

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Thanks guys, that all makes sense. I took it to the professionals and paid the hour minimum for them to double check me on the cooling system. Did NOT wanna blow a head gasket and figured it was $75 well spent. Both fans worked as they should and they were able to verify the readings were good on all the gauges. Pulling the cluster and checking solder joints, etc, to see if theres anything obvious with my son after the reveal Sunday. Might have to score a new one somewhere. Was going to do the custom gauges, light change to blue and light up the oil ones while at it. I think that will be a great first project, to give him confidence and realize what all we can do.

I think what through me off is the design with the exhaust header in the front...creates a lot of additional heat under the hood compared to my Detec. Luckily, the carbon fiber hood the PO used is vented right above it. I think wrapping the header is going to be our second project.

This thing is FAST! Wow, hitting 60 before shifting out of second. I'm gonna have to get the N20 hooked up on my Saleen...can't have my son faster than me.
 

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I offer a great Custom Tune and can Turn the fans on sooner to work with the 180 deg thermostat , change the IMRC setting , better take off where the SVT is lacking and better over all driveability and the Flasher is a great tool to read all the sensors so you dont have to pay 75.00 again

Tom
 

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You are absolutely going to be my go to for both the Saleen and SVT. Probably after tax returns, had to stretch to score them both this year. Unless I run across a Roush. LOL!
 
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