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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello looking for any potential leads to this issue I'm having, I've found many post with similar issues pertaining to stalling when coming to a stop but none that seem to relate to the cars temperature.
The car will run just fine until i hit about 3 to 5 miles then it will stall out when coming to a stop or while idling. Once it's cool it will start back up like nothing rather confused what could be causing this based on what I've replaced already. I've also noticed I can get it to stall out faster the more power I draw from the battery, having lights on, AC, Radio all cause it to stumble more until it finally stalls out.

Work done as of now. Replaced fuel pressure sensor, Valve cover gasket, all spark plugs as well as new coil pack as last one was cracked, replaced IAC, checked for exhaust leaks, and checked pcv hose for damage.

All of these have caused a very noticeable improvement in general performance but once it's driven within that range of 3 to 5 miles it will stall out every time and come back on once cooled off for a few hours.
My mechanic is thinking it's fuel pump related, I did replace the fuel pump last year as it completely stopped working. Not really sure what direction to go in at this moment or what specifically would cause it to only stall once it's warmed up that isn't related to anything we haven't already checked or replaced any input would be wonderful.
 

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Could be complicated by the type of fuel pump used. If you did not change the entire pump module and only changed pump alone and not housing then it could be that as any pump made now does NOT work with the OEM housing unless it was changed to the 2 steel rods in the top type per the fuel pump recall. The 'pump alone' option seems to work but makes all kinds of fuel supply issues later on as it does not simply refuse to work at first. Your 3-5 mile thing could be the pump running the module dry to have to let car sit to refill the module, the pump has slipped out of place inside the module to do that and what the wrong one does.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Could be complicated by the type of fuel pump used. If you did not change the entire pump module and only changed pump alone and not housing then it could be that as any pump made now does NOT work with the OEM housing unless it was changed to the 2 steel rods in the top type per the fuel pump recall. The 'pump alone' option seems to work but makes all kinds of fuel supply issues later on as it does not simply refuse to work at first. Your 3-5 mile thing could be the pump running the module dry to have to let car sit to refill the module, the pump has slipped out of place inside the module to do that and what the wrong one does.
Very interesting, thank you for the reply. To my memory we replaced the whole pump and housing completely before, however it was the cheaper option the one without the 2 rods in place from what i recall. My mechanic told me we should do a fuel pressure test to ensure its related to the pump of which I'm assuming based on what you've told me that would most likely confirm the pump as the issue? If i may inquire more information about proper replacement options for the pump, i wasn't aware of any recall unfortunately and I'm fairly ignorant what would be the best option. Is this the type of issue I can't expect to find a suitable replacement for or am I going to run into this problem later down the line after replacing the pump? Anymore input you have to give would be greatly appreciated.

edit I've checked my records and can confirm which pump specifically I got It's the Delphi Gasoline Fuel Pump DFG1341 The one we took out was identical though I don't recall any brand. Hope this information is useful.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Based on what?

Paul
He's done some personal digging around the internet related to the issue which seem to lean in that direction, he held onto it for 2 weeks just trouble shooting it trying to get any type of code to pop so he could at the least have an idea what's wrong before replacing things. Main issue was the lack of any codes being dropped while stalling out or when rough idling, the only one we got was related to the fuel pressure sensor. He's now suggesting doing a fuel pressure test to confirm any possible failing in the pumps performance.
 

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If the pump a pressure test there may well be worthless. It will show pressure with the module filled up but 3-5 miles later maybe not.

Looked up the exact pump FG1341 and a modified design, it is not the 2 rod pump but it appears to be a later model design that would likely use the pump alone too. So the pump itself may not be an issue BUT, I'm trying to figure out what anchors it in place in the tank, the early one snapped in and the 2 rod one stabilized the main module by the rods, that FG pump is not clear on how it goes into the tank to stay put, they will simply fall over sideways if not retained in some way and again that could be the problem. The snap-in ones were discontinued because if tank hit something under car the pump came unsnapped and then fell over and problems in short order. The FG one appears to simply set down on 3 feet and that likely is not going to work unless something else retains it to not fall over. Fuel sloshing around in tank will knock them over quick.

FYI, the original pump that was recalled is and has been no longer available for many years.
 

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Right after it stalls can you re-start or no?

Paul
 

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AND the indicated fuel level at the attempt.

You might fill the tank to full and see if the issue gets any better.

I for one have missed the engine type which should be a zetec but say so. TPS can make that problem but if zetec and automatic trans that can be another issue, as Ford modded that along with the fuel pump through there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If the pump a pressure test there may well be worthless. It will show pressure with the module filled up but 3-5 miles later maybe not.

Looked up the exact pump FG1341 and a modified design, it is not the 2 rod pump but it appears to be a later model design that would likely use the pump alone too. So the pump itself may not be an issue BUT, I'm trying to figure out what anchors it in place in the tank, the early one snapped in and the 2 rod one stabilized the main module by the rods, that FG pump is not clear on how it goes into the tank to stay put, they will simply fall over sideways if not retained in some way and again that could be the problem. The snap-in ones were discontinued because if tank hit something under car the pump came unsnapped and then fell over and problems in short order. The FG one appears to simply set down on 3 feet and that likely is not going to work unless something else retains it to not fall over. Fuel sloshing around in tank will knock them over quick.

FYI, the original pump that was recalled is and has been no longer available for many years.
I gotcha, so I can tell you the pump that we installed does indeed snap into a plastic base that is inside the tank itself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Right after it stalls can you re-start or no?

Paul
It will not start back up, once it's hits that stalled state it will not turnover until It's been left alone for a few hours, then it will start right up no issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
AND the indicated fuel level at the attempt.

You might fill the tank to full and see if the issue gets any better.

I for one have missed the engine type which should be a zetec but say so. TPS can make that problem but if zetec and automatic trans that can be another issue, as Ford modded that along with the fuel pump through there.
To clarify it started stalling out on me with a full tank. You would be correct in that it's a zetec engine also automatic.
 

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It will not start back up, once it's hits that stalled state it will not turnover until It's been left alone for a few hours, then it will start right up no issue.
Crank no-start or no crank?

Paul
 

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An internal combustion engine is not rocket science - it needs air, fuel, spark, compression and all at the right time (aka suck-squeeze-bang-blow). The fact that your engine runs - then doesnt - then runs again leads me to believe that its loosing one thing, probably not air or compression/timing (mechanical issue). So that would leave spark or fuel. In crank no-start mode I could have a coil/spark plug out in about one minute and tell you if it has spark or not. Either it does - which leaves a fuel issue - or it doesnt. Also, fuel pressure (RFP) can be checked in less than 2 minutes on any scan tool (my 10 year old el cheapo Actron scan tool gives RFP). A $2 noid light and 30 seconds will tell you if the injectors are firing. Once you know its spark or fuel work from there to determine what is temporarily bringing it down. Me thinks you/your mechanic have too much 'i-know-its-the-fuel-pump-itis' instead of methodically working out the problem.

he held onto it for 2 weeks just trouble shooting it trying to get any type of code to pop so he could at the least have an idea what's wrong before replacing things. Main issue was the lack of any codes being dropped
TWO WEEKS! Sheesh...
You need to find another mechanic. Over reliance on looking/waiting for 'a code that tells me exactly what is wrong' instead of diagnosing. I understand intermittent problems can be challenging - Im not a mechanic. But any good mechanic with a basic set of diagnostic tools should be able to follow a method of diagnosis and not solely depend on codes/parts cannon.

Good luck
Paul
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
An internal combustion engine is not rocket science - it needs air, fuel, spark, compression and all at the right time (aka suck-squeeze-bang-blow). The fact that your engine runs - then doesnt - then runs again leads me to believe that its loosing one thing, probably not air or compression/timing (mechanical issue). So that would leave spark or fuel. In crank no-start mode I could have a coil/spark plug out in about one minute and tell you if it has spark or not. Either it does - which leaves a fuel issue - or it doesnt. Also, fuel pressure (RFP) can be checked in less than 2 minutes on any scan tool (my 10 year old el cheapo Actron scan tool gives RFP). A $2 noid light and 30 seconds will tell you if the injectors are firing. Once you know its spark or fuel work from there to determine what is temporarily bringing it down. Me thinks you/your mechanic have too much 'i-know-its-the-fuel-pump-itis' instead of methodically working out the problem.



TWO WEEKS! Sheesh...
You need to find another mechanic. Over reliance on looking/waiting for 'a code that tells me exactly what is wrong' instead of diagnosing. I understand intermittent problems can be challenging - Im not a mechanic. But any good mechanic with a basic set of diagnostic tools should be able to follow a method of diagnosis and not solely depend on codes/parts cannon.

Good luck
Paul
Thanks for the reply, appreciate your input. While I don't intrinsically disagree with anything you've said it's important to note all the following functions of logic you've just listed have been already assessed by my mechanic leading to where we are now, being the primary conclusion of a fuel related issue as you have also been able to conclude. I also did specify he was indeed troubleshooting the issue over those two weeks, but was being cautious to give me any hard answers until we had better information apologies if I didn't clarify that specifically.
 

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The problem is NOT TPS if the vehicle will not start back up instantly. The TPS simply kills the engine at idle but it will instantly start back up again.

I find myself wondering how the pump snaps back into place, they would have had to change the fixture inside tank (of course not impossible). My '02 had the earlier style pump that would not work with that pump you have used there, the snap in fixture in bottom of tank is not like that pump apparently has to use if you study the bottom of it using Rock Auto for pics of the pump. FYI I still use the 'unuseable' recalled pump module but I modded both the pump module and the later pump that does NOT work with it to make them work fine but it's a pain to do although very cheap as far as the money part goes.
 

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I had a similar problem with my 02 ZX5. Stalled on my way home after about 4 miles. Some electrical worked, car would crank but not start. Problem ended up being a corroded battrery connection. There are 3 connections to the positive terminal and one of them was corroded. Replaced the connections and it has worked fine for the past 3 years. Now I keep an eye on it.
 

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The OEM terminals at the ends of the cables can be super tight yet still loose enough to twist by hand and more trouble there. Bad terminal design, cleaning them makes them looser.
 
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