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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First time on site so be gentle LOL. Basically The issue is I finally got the belt off Tension-er Pulley bolt is stripping so that caused issues getting belt off, but finally got it off and got after a long battle of things in the way and getting to the 2 10 mm alternator bolts, got them out. Now from every video I see it seems the alternator should be able to move some, but mine is like stuck, tried pushing toward firewall up and toward firewall and pretty much every direction, yet the darn thing will not move at all. I see the whole motor slightly moving with all the pulling ect trying to get it free, yet the alternator will not move on its own. Am I missing something that I have not seen from video's that keeping it locked in, or is it really locked in bad within the friction bars? Tried using my leverage pipe on the alternators pulley and tried pushing up and over to no avail, tried putting the bolts in and trying to bang them around to see if that would free anything up. I know it is said you may need to use a crowbar to pry some out. If that is the case being no video I have found shows this in action, at what spots would you be trying to pry from and best suited size ect. If this is the case, if anyone had even a picture or two of best locations to start from would be great. Thanks for any possible solutions to getting this darn thing out.

BTW pretty sure alternator is dead, but is it supposed to make noise when you turn the pulley on it, like a grinding brushing sound or should it be pretty silent if its good?

Thanks
 

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Welcome to FF.

My alternator has 3 mounting bolts, but mine is a different engine than yours, I have a Duratec engine. I am guessing you have 3 mounting bolts for your Alt.

Stand-by for others here to better help you.

Good luck

edit: a bad Alt can be perfectly quiet or noisy when turning the pulley.
 

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'...is it really locked in bad within the friction bars?'

YES, they all do it to varying degrees, unfortunately there is no clear instruction possible to loosen them as the action is somewhat indirect any way or angle you can possibly do it. If you could rethread the long bolts back in enough to not damage threads while NOT being tight then whack on the ends of the bolts that would do it but there is no straight angle of attack there.

I can tell what needs to happen but not how you do it. The thread portion of the long bolts goes into the opposite blind end of the inboard alt casting leg, the threads screw directly into those squeeze blocks. The blocks have to move inboard to the car centerline to loosen the leg up to let alt fall loose.

You might crawl up under car to get to that easier, one time I did it that way and it went pretty well.

Alt making any noise other than a light whisper likely has something wrong with it.
 

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Zetec has 2 long bolts.

If the Alternator is bad, just start whacking the housing with a hammer. try getting a pry bar in there and get some leverage. don't want leverage against the head or the valve cover. the bolts clamp it in there and the dissimilar metals cause corrosion.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the responses, hoping to get it out tomorrow, wanted to get it checked just to make sure it was nothing else, but could not get a full check done before battery was completely killed as was given little to no warning before issues happened. Did get a battery light a few times, but would go off once rpm was raised by pressing gas, battery failed shortly after (few hours later). Tow truck coming to jump said alternating was giving nothing as car was running on jump box, but once disconnect would just die. Only other weird thing I noticed the day before was a burnt smell, not sure from car or outside of it, then shortly after when shifting gears (manual) the rpm would jump when clutched a few hundred rpm before dropping. Found that really weird. Will try the bolt idea again, tightening them up a bit more, will probably also get a crowbar and try and work from closer to front bolt socket under it and hope to get some movement. Just wish some video showed ideas to remove these types of "stuck" alternators, everyone one is either drops off in video or they show we used this tool, yet did not show where and how it moved from its stuck position. Car has a ton of miles and nearing its end (250k), upstate NY end mainly "frame rust" just wanted to get a few more months at least as overall has run pretty good outside of some weird issue last summer where every 10-15 miles the fuel pump failed? car would just start chugging then stall, rest the car for 5-10 minutes and would go another 10-15 miles. Happened 2 days in a row. sense then have kept tank near full at all times and has not happened again, but also temps have not been pushing over 90 sense then either.

Any other suggestions will be helpful, wish I knew someone local that would just say, your doing this wrong or you missed this and pop it comes off LOL
 

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Thats What She Said
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It's a pressure fit with inserts that gives it a zero tolerance type fit. Videos likely are giving more force tan is shown in the video.

One you install put antisize on the ears of the alternator and threads of the bolts.

I had to replace my OEM Alternator on my ZX3 this summer and it was behaving really weird and odd the it went out. It all started with me smelling a burning plastic. Saw chared black stuff in the alternator. Figured I could make it home (another 30 miles). About 5 miles into the trip I started loosing all power, stalling coming back on. Stuff that I would have thought my large CCA battery would have powered through on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
It's a pressure fit with inserts that gives it a zero tolerance type fit. Videos likely are giving more force tan is shown in the video.

One you install put antisize on the ears of the alternator and threads of the bolts.

I had to replace my OEM Alternator on my ZX3 this summer and it was behaving really weird and odd the it went out. It all started with me smelling a burning plastic. Saw chared black stuff in the alternator. Figured I could make it home (another 30 miles). About 5 miles into the trip I started loosing all power, stalling coming back on. Stuff that I would have thought my large CCA battery would have powered through on.

Sounds about what happened to mine, really no warning and that is what I smelled, but was in a high traffic area and had heater running as it was cold and raining at the time to keep windows defogged. Only time I saw a battery light was at one point in neutral a few time, but went away. Had a bad feeling alternator was probably going, but thought I could get a few chores out of way and light went away and did not come back LOL. Guess when light stops showing its fully toasted LOL.

I think I am a tad confused on the inserts and how they are removed, I hear people talk about them, but not sure do they come off with alternator as one video seemed someone did something to the side, was mainly skipped, while ones like 1aauto just say up and over after removing the second bolt. Mine is not going up or anything. Will probably buy a crowbar at walmart while I get the battery tested, though I am sure it is also toasted as it went down to basic 0 charge. LOL the little blinking light on dashboard was not even blinking anymore. basically will be installing used parts due to cars future not good due to frame rust, but for the car having so many side issues, I do like it, also great on gas. When the time comes may pick up another one for base driving if I can find another manual and hopefully less mods. Mine gets that smoggy smell inside at times I am guessing due to modded exhaust system as guy at muffler shop said you have that "zoom zoom" system on car. LOL
 

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The alt rear bearing when it goes melts the plastic tolerance ring that sets it tight to make the smell.

The blocks are simply light pressfitted into the alt legs to move when the bolts are tightened, they move in since they are threaded and the bolt goes into them, the moving in pinches the alt bracket hard to lock it all in place. If you get another alt then use like visegrips to squeeze the blocks back open so the alt falls right in place then the bolts again pull them in to tight. The blocks stay in place, they simply move only a slight bit one way or the other.

When trying to use the bolts to move the blocks do NOT tighten them all the way up, just maybe 3/4 of the way in to give some movement room for them.

You likely have the bad recalled fuel pump, the in tank filter clogs to make them quit over and over. Usually with 1/4 tank and under but driven long enough even a full tank won't stop it from dying. By then pump will be dead from burning it up pumping with no output. Cleaned early on the pumps go back to working fine but nobody ever does that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The alt rear bearing when it goes melts the plastic tolerance ring that sets it tight to make the smell.

The blocks are simply light pressfitted into the alt legs to move when the bolts are tightened, they move in since they are threaded and the bolt goes into them, the moving in pinches the alt bracket hard to lock it all in place. If you get another alt then use like visegrips to squeeze the blocks back open so the alt falls right in place then the bolts again pull them in to tight. The blocks stay in place, they simply move only a slight bit one way or the other.

When trying to use the bolts to move the blocks do NOT tighten them all the way up, just maybe 3/4 of the way in to give some movement room for them.

You likely have the bad recalled fuel pump, the in tank filter clogs to make them quit over and over. Usually with 1/4 tank and under but driven long enough even a full tank won't stop it from dying. By then pump will be dead from burning it up pumping with no output. Cleaned early on the pumps go back to working fine but nobody ever does that.

Thanks for the information, will try and see if I have any luck today getting it to move, though a tad sore LOL.

Sounds like the case on the Fuel pump as last owner said that a issue similar to what you stated about the 1/4 tank thing happened to him and stated he just never let it get that low. I used fuel cleaners a few times sense I owned it and used it the first day the issue I had. Not sure if that help if it is a clogging issue. I do know earlier in the summer, had to replace the filler neck as that rusted out.

Will update any news if I have any luck today, Thanks again everyone for the idea's.
 

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The fuel filter issues is with the sock on the pick up being poorly located. A fuel cleaner system cleaner will not do anything to fix this. Need to change the fuel pick up and sock type/location to fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The fuel filter issues is with the sock on the pick up being poorly located. A fuel cleaner system cleaner will not do anything to fix this. Need to change the fuel pick up and sock type/location to fix it.
Sadly with the cars condition, probably just have to ride it out and hope it lasts at this point if I get it running again period LOL unless it was something easy, which does not sound like the case.

Side note, did finally get the darn thing out today between a crowbar, pry tool and a hammer LOL. Was not without incident when trying to get the power wire off the bolt snapped, but at least the wire is intact. Had trouble getting it up from top so ended up dropping it out from under, but it got muddy, darn gravel driveway. At least its finally off, but darn took forever to get this far. Also battery is toasted, had it tested today and has a bad cell as kind of expected when alternator died it took the battery with it. Thinking of getting old alternator tested next, but being it got some mud on it, not sure if the test will be very truthful with how much I had to bang it getting muddy ect to get it out in the first place.
 

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Not sure why you would test it other than to confirm it's dead, but it's not like your going to put it back in.

Fuel pump is actually quite easy. But depends on the condition of the bottom side of the car, how many heat shield you mat still have attached, etc.

Power wire the bolt snapped? You mean the stud on the Alternator? Those are always breaking. You will get another one new with the replacement alt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Just wanted to make sure as it was never fully tested from a mechanic just a quick check by a tow truck driver, if it comes out dead, which I am sure it will, will just make me feel more confident that was the issue other then something else possible LOL. I know other issues could arrive, but need to keep confident after so much work.

Bottom side of car is toasted, rusted out pretty bad in spots from what i was told, reason why I am not think it will make it past next NY inspection in a few months. PS also do not have a very good work space as its out doors and winter and slight incline and gravel/grass/mud LOL.

The bolt that connected the red wire with the washer that connected to the plastic wire harness that connects directly to the alternator body. Looks like that is included with alternators anyways so was no great loss. Just another thing that was pretty rusty in there LOL. Looks like the other wire harness had been replaced at one time as the wire clip was in decent shape and could see where the wires had been clamped during replacement. Hoping with all the banging in there I did not damage any of the wire connections in there. Have read that has been a known issue of alternator problems as well with that harness.

Welcome to Monroe Rust County or Rustchester NY where anything that is about 10 years old + has a rusting out frame if it has not been kept after.

Edit: Cars other known issues, weeping water pump, power steering leak (not sure where yet seems to have slowed sense putting in the leak stop) rattling throw out barring in clutch (though clutch still functions decently), rotors have some warping, K-frame rust, dry rotted motor mounts, finished off during idler pulley repair last summer, vent settings nob broke off, radio died (my fault window open when I was in store and a fast moving storm rolled in and soaked inside of car, forgot to pull face off radio, water must have gotten inside), was told a damaged spring and this one I have yet to pin point water coming in by passenger seat. This one is a pain as it gets into the blower motor and causes issues, replaced the motor once and replacement is already starting to get noisy due to it. Guess some how water is going from front windshield and getting past firewall and into the car somewhere. Fun fact car has about 250k on it and motor seems to hardly lose any oil if any and seems to be running very well, sadly the body will fail well before the motor will probably give.

Sorry for my less then proper tech speak as I am just trying to learn how to do some of my own repairs as will be cheaper as prices of labor have skyrocketed. At moment have more free time then money so been trying to do my own repairs when ever possible.
 

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Soak the alternator.where it sits on the bracket with wd40 or any rust penetrator. You need a couple of fry bars to wiggle it lost. Next you'll be fighting it to get it out of that tight space. Good luck.


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Zetec has 2 long bolts.

If the Alternator is bad, just start whacking the housing with a hammer. try getting a pry bar in there and get some leverage. don't want leverage against the head or the valve cover. the bolts clamp it in there and the dissimilar metals cause corrosion.
I would've been whacked it too lol

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Just wanted to make sure as it was never fully tested from a mechanic just a quick check by a tow truck driver, if it comes out dead, which I am sure it will, will just make me feel more confident that was the issue other then something else possible LOL. I know other issues could arrive, but need to keep confident after so much work.

Bottom side of car is toasted, rusted out pretty bad in spots from what i was told, reason why I am not think it will make it past next NY inspection in a few months. PS also do not have a very good work space as its out doors and winter and slight incline and gravel/grass/mud LOL.

The bolt that connected the red wire with the washer that connected to the plastic wire harness that connects directly to the alternator body. Looks like that is included with alternators anyways so was no great loss. Just another thing that was pretty rusty in there LOL. Looks like the other wire harness had been replaced at one time as the wire clip was in decent shape and could see where the wires had been clamped during replacement. Hoping with all the banging in there I did not damage any of the wire connections in there. Have read that has been a known issue of alternator problems as well with that harness.

Welcome to Monroe Rust County or Rustchester NY where anything that is about 10 years old + has a rusting out frame if it has not been kept after.

Edit: Cars other known issues, weeping water pump, power steering leak (not sure where yet seems to have slowed sense putting in the leak stop) rattling throw out barring in clutch (though clutch still functions decently), rotors have some warping, K-frame rust, dry rotted motor mounts, finished off during idler pulley repair last summer, vent settings nob broke off, radio died (my fault window open when I was in store and a fast moving storm rolled in and soaked inside of car, forgot to pull face off radio, water must have gotten inside), was told a damaged spring and this one I have yet to pin point water coming in by passenger seat. This one is a pain as it gets into the blower motor and causes issues, replaced the motor once and replacement is already starting to get noisy due to it. Guess some how water is going from front windshield and getting past firewall and into the car somewhere. Fun fact car has about 250k on it and motor seems to hardly lose any oil if any and seems to be running very well, sadly the body will fail well before the motor will probably give.

Sorry for my less then proper tech speak as I am just trying to learn how to do some of my own repairs as will be cheaper as prices of labor have skyrocketed. At moment have more free time then money so been trying to do my own repairs when ever possible.
If I were you I'd probly change the water pump while I'm the it's about $30 or so and a couple 10mms

As far as the seeping water check for clogged drain by the firewall underneath the wipers if you remove the actual wiper arms and the cover u can kinda poke a screw driver around to see where it's supposed to be bcause it will most likely be covered with leafs or debris.

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks for the info, I got the new used alternator in today, but had a major issue with the tensioner Pulley bolt as its getting rounded and failed to get the belt back on and tried many different ideas, can get some slack on belt, just not enough to get belt on in any spot I try to work from. Had the car towed and hope they can get a better angle while on a lift. Just angers me was so darn close to finished. All I had left was to bolt the new battery in and test it. Hope shop does not hose me trying to say new pulley or other stuff. If the car somehow passes another NY inspection in the near future I will worry about other side repairs then. The final straw for me, while getting frustrated was trying to move the motor mounts for more space, in haste I forgot to jack motor and that was a slight disaster, only dropped about a half inch or so, but still was like, ok I give in this belt hates me and is not going on with this rounding out pulley bolt with little to no space. NY winters have not been kind to this car as it seems every bolt is either badly rusty or rounding.
 

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Did you remove the two smaller 10mm bolts (might be 11mm). The tensioner is easy to come out from just the two smaller bolts if the middle pulley bolt is rounded. The replacement is usually the whole tensioner assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Did you remove the two smaller 10mm bolts (might be 11mm). The tensioner is easy to come out from just the two smaller bolts if the middle pulley bolt is rounded. The replacement is usually the whole tensioner assembly.
I know that is the "correct" solution, but till I know everything else is working correctly wanted to just get the belt on within any means possible and test. Really thought about it as I was putting the new alternator in about calling around about replacement. Really should have, my luck they will tell me it needs to be replaced and try and charge me a arm and a leg. The shop is less then a mile from home, if they give me a hassle I will probably just try and get the car home and try and replace it myself. [doorpeek]

PS: After the motor mount disaster I needed to get the car away from me, as I was worried I break something bad. Sad when low on funds on trying to get it functional and worry about those repairs later type things.
 
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