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2002 Focus ZX3 204k miles, replacing clutch slave, do I really need to put a new flywheel in?

368 Views 23 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  pbfoot
Seen several videos where they just cleaned it up, or can it be resurfaced? Clutch is not slipping. Slave has been leaking for 2 years! Afraid I won't be able to get it out of gear. I colder weather it happened, so I let it warm up 10 minutes, then slave works OK (ROFL)
Ordered a clutch kit, friction disk, pressure plate, slave cylinder, rear main seal because it leaks a little.
The Ford one in there is probably better than the aftermarket I figure, and would save me $56-$90 plus shipping.
Rear main came in one day, the good one with seal already in a plate with sealing surface on back (SKF) rest of Rockauto order label was made but is a week from arriving so can I stop the shipping of the flywheel and just get the clutch kit?
I also realize I need to replace the axle nuts and will order them way cheaper than local.
Should I order the 2 seals for the CVs? They do not leak. No way I am paying 30 dollars each from Ford for new FW bolts either. I will have them reused. ARP 6-bolt kit $31 do I have to get them?
Anyone ever done one? MTX-75 trans.
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Seen several videos where they just cleaned it up, or can it be resurfaced? Clutch is not slipping. Slave has been leaking for 2 years! Afraid I won't be able to get it out of gear. I colder weather it happened, so I let it warm up 10 minutes, then slave works OK (ROFL)
Ordered a clutch kit, friction disk, pressure plate, slave cylinder, rear main seal because it leaks a little.
The Ford one in there is probably better than the aftermarket I figure, and would save me $56-$90 plus shipping.
Rear main came in one day, the good one with seal already in a plate with sealing surface on back (SKF) rest of Rockauto order label was made but is a week from arriving so can I stop the shipping of the flywheel and just get the clutch kit?
I also realize I need to replace the axle nuts and will order them way cheaper than local.
Should I order the 2 seals for the CVs? They do not leak. No way I am paying 30 dollars each from Ford for new FW bolts either. I will have them reused. ARP 6-bolt kit $31 do I have to get them?
Anyone ever done one? MTX-75 trans.
The rear main almost never leaks. Usually it is the upper crankcase gasket. It will drip out dead center making you think it is the rear main. Note that to replace the rear main seal you must use a centering tool that only comes with a Motorcraft seal. You can replace without removing the housing but it is risky.
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Axle seals will be fine. Put a little grease on them before installing and be careful to not nick them with the splines of the shaft and the retaining ring. I've done a clutch without replacing the flywheel on my son's 02. I just scuffed it with scotchbrite. Note that you must use a sealer on the slave cylinder and discard the oring. If it is a metal slave then you use the o ring. I have found it is much easier to remove the subframe for easy access to install the transaxle.
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A pro shop is doing it, letting me bring my own parts. There is no crankcase gasket. I had it inspected. Anyways the seal IS the one in the housing already. SKF looks like the Ford one. I realize the lip needs to be pushed in during install. I 'm sure they have done many, been in business a long time, and must have such a tool. Are flywheel bolts really needed? Ordered from Ford @ 2.75 each will take over a week. Parts have shipped apparently. So I will keep new flywheel, only $56, clutch kit $149 I am buying my own axle nuts for less than $4 each, Autozone says $53 for ONE axle nut, that is NUTS. Being a shop, they probably will not let me have it done without new axle nuts. Some trans. oil will leak out I think, do I need to get a quart? It is now $38. Changed it 3 years ago old oil was perfectly clean. It was $30 back then per quart.
3 yrs ago a pro mechanic friend did the trans oil for me at his house, he said my case had been opened, and it shifts great, so I am thinking you only split a case to replace synchros and such. But why did he not replace the slave(previous owner)??? I got it mid 2019. Slave is probably 21 yrs old! Clutch master was leaking when I got it, replaced it right away.
How many years does a clutch slave last before leaking? In 2002 My 1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 slave went out, but was external. THANKS FORD!
Looks like SKF came with a plastic thing, could be used to install seal.
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Flywheel bolts MUST be replaced.
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Yeah. That's the alignment tool. Are you saying it doesn't have an upper crankcase or it was checked and not leaking which I doubt. These cars are old.
Are you sure that is the correct rear main seal? It looks like a duratec rear main seal, I don't think the other engines used that same seal. Duratec was only available starting in 2003.
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Are you sure that is the correct rear main seal? It looks like a duratec rear main seal, I don't think the other engines used that same seal. Duratec was only available starting in 2003.
They sent wrong seal??? OMG
Flywheel bolts MUST be replaced.
They have them, but come from Florida I think. Faster shipping is a lot like $20 VS free pick up at dealer when they come. For $30 ARP has them too on Amazon, probably faster.
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They sent wrong seal??? OMG
I am not completely sure, hopefully others can confirm. I assume you have the ZETEC engine. Below is a photo I found of the ZETEC rear main seal. It is possible that the zetec a duratec rear main seals are the same size, just retained differently. So you may have to remove the new rubber seal you have from its metal retainer.
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Nope you are correct! Stroke of luck I put in for refund not shipping it to them, DRIVING there where the return address is Parts Authority San Bernardino. like TWO WHOLE miles from my house!
The Buyer's Guide showed it fitting 2000-2018 I told them they screwed up.
Anyways, the fel-pro one is only like $12 and comes with a plastic sleeve to make the lip seat properly. Another commenter on YouTube used a party-cup on his Mazda 3 same engine. You do not need that EXPENSIVE Ford tool. Ford lists the seal at $122 LOL FEL-PRO is $12 I will source a rear main seal or just have them verify it is leaking. Two shops said it is, and Blue Devil slowed it down a lot, almost stopped. The seal is only 50 dollars labor more. 21 years old I'm sure it is the seal. Cam cover gasket WAS leaking but I replaced it.
No way I'm spending $8 to ship it to them, it is like bicycle distance. I think I may take the flywheel there too, get a refund. Don't shops resurface these for a small fee? Or just scuff it up, there is no chatter.
So I paid for a retainer that is used on the Duratec! No wonder the Zetec seals are like $10. FEL-PRO with installer sleeve.
Hammering a seal out then installing it is a no go for me. I am getting a refund. This came in ONE day from Fresno, saw a picture on Google Maps, from Parts Authority.
I bet the fel-pro one they have right there at Parts Authority San Bernardino. Scratch NAPA, way overpriced.
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I am not completely sure, hopefully others can confirm. I assume you have the ZETEC engine. Below is a photo I found of the ZETEC rear main seal. It is possible that the zetec a duratec rear main seals are the same size, just retained differently. So you may have to remove the new rubber seal you have from its metal retainer.
So the arrows are pointing to the upper engine block. The lower part is the girdle that holds the crank in? How would one seal that without pulling the engine? There is no friction or wear going on there. Only the spinning crank is wearing on the seal.
So the arrows are pointing to the upper engine block. The lower part is the girdle that holds the crank in? How would one seal that without pulling the engine? There is no friction or wear going on there. Only the spinning crank is wearing on the seal.
You pull the exhaust that goes under the oil pan. Remove bottom ac compressor bolts. They screw into the pil pan. Remove passenger side axle. Remove axle carrier bearing bracket. Remove lower oil pan. Remove oil pump pickup tube. Remove upper crankcase. You never answered me before but you see how the upper crankcase leaking can appear to be a rear main seal. I have never had a rear main go bad on a focus. Even 200,000 mile foci. It was the upper crankcase gasket every single time. The only time I have seen a rear main seal leak is here on the forum when a shop improperly installed the seal at a clutch change.
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You pull the exhaust that goes under the oil pan. Remove bottom ac compressor bolts. They screw into the pil pan. Remove passenger side axle. Remove axle carrier bearing bracket. Remove lower oil pan. Remove oil pump pickup tube. Remove upper crankcase. You never answered me before but you see how the upper crankcase leaking can appear to be a rear main seal. I have never had a rear main go bad on a focus. Even 200,000 mile foci. It was the upper crankcase gasket every single time. The only time I have seen a rear main seal leak is here on the forum when a shop improperly installed the seal at a clutch change.
Still have not explained where the leak you are talking about is located. There is an oil pan and an engine block, nothing on Ford parts says "upper crankcase"
I'm not going to pay for that, the leak stopped I think, only brake fluid.
Here is where I am at. I am not going to have them remove flywheel, will not need the FW or the $30 in bolts. I am returning FW and seal and will save $130.
He quoted me same labor with or without the seal change. He even said I could JUST replace the slave to save money, but the whole kit was only $149 vs like $40-something for slave only.
The factory FW does not chatter or slip, and the factory one is top quality, they are like $600 from ZF, the supplier to Ford.
Only thing dripping is brake fluid. To fix a very minor leak, I'll wait until it needs an engine. I cannot for the life of me find the one-time use CV nut, they are ALL rear ones. There must be a USA shortage? Ones I used 2 yrs. ago when brakes were done are listed at FIFTY-THREE dollars each, NO WAY!
Have a picture of the "upper crankcase gasket" ?
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Still have not explained where the leak you are talking about is located. There is an oil pan and an engine block, nothing on Ford parts says "upper crankcase"
I'm not going to pay for that, the leak stopped I think, only brake fluid.
Here is where I am at. I am not going to have them remove flywheel, will not need the FW or the $30 in bolts. I am returning FW and seal and will save $130.
He quoted me same labor with or without the seal change. He even said I could JUST replace the slave to save money, but the whole kit was only $149 vs like $40-something for slave only.
The factory FW does not chatter or slip, and the factory one is top quality, they are like $600 from ZF, the supplier to Ford.
Only thing dripping is brake fluid. To fix a very minor leak, I'll wait until it needs an engine. I cannot for the life of me find the one-time use CV nut, they are ALL rear ones. There must be a USA shortage? Ones I used 2 yrs. ago when brakes were done are listed at FIFTY-THREE dollars each, NO WAY!
Have a picture of the "upper crankcase gasket" ?
View attachment 317584 View attachment 317585
Yes. Otherwise known as an upper oil pan gasket. You seem to know everything. I'm out.
It's an oil pan gasket, never heard it called an "upper crankcase" Upper crankcase is right below the cylinder heads.
I
It's an oil pan gasket, never heard it called an "upper crankcase" Upper crankcase is right below the cylinder heads.
I really dont care what you call it, that is the gasket that leaks. I call it an upper crankcase gasket to differentiate between the actual metal pan and the upper windage tray. The crankshaft is not next to the cylinder head. [email protected] I only had a brain.
It's an oil pan gasket, never heard it called an "upper crankcase" Upper crankcase is right below the cylinder heads.
Furthermore you are being rude to the only guy helping. F off.
Oil pan is not a crankcase I u only had a brain
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Yes below the cylinder heads the hollow part of the block which contains the connecting rods and the crank shaft. Is the crankcase that is not the oil pan. The crankcase STARTS above the oil pan. Oil pan collects oil.🤣
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