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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey Guys,

New to the forum here and thought I would show off my latest build and ask a few questions to some of the more experienced builders. I picked up this vehicle with a blown engine for a few hundred bucks and slowly turning it into a full track day toy. Here are some photographs of what I have done so far. I plan on cleaning it up this weekend and putting all the lamps and body parts back on this weekend. I purchased new rubber, grilles, and lamps all around. I also plan on getting the wheels painted this weekend as well. I'm looking for suggestions at this time for a full suspension build. I also need seat brackets and a racing emergency brake set up if any one has any ideas. What do you guys think? Is this place still active? [popcorn]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2cCUkFX]20181106_105352 by Justin McClung, on Flickr[/URL]


[url=https://flic.kr/p/QgposH]20181105_110138 by Justin McClung, on Flickr[/URL]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2cCUnfD]20181205_165006 by Justin McClung, on Flickr[/URL]


[url=https://flic.kr/p/2cCUo8a]20181207_103549 by Justin McClung, on Flickr[/URL]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/RTFGVQ]20190104_124530 by Justin McClung, on Flickr[/URL]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/Qqkf8F]20190112_211334 by Justin McClung, on Flickr[/URL]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2cML3ix]20190112_211314 by Justin McClung, on Flickr[/URL]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/Qqkc8n]20190112_211356 by Justin McClung, on Flickr[/URL]
 

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Great looking build and I like the white. I assume the plan is to leave it gutted since you are going to make it a track car. Any plans to put in a roll cage?

For suspension, I like my BC Racing coilovers. BC only sells their base performance coilovers for the fSVT, but I like all the adjustability and the performance feels very consistent across all four corners. You will likely want to go with aftermarket rear toe and camber arms to dial in the alignment for the track. Factory alignment is not track friendly and the OEM arms are not adjustable. Both Massive Speed System and Megan Racing offer some good ones. I’m using the Massive ones and like the metal bushings verse the rubber or polyurethane bushings. I'm sure others have some good recommendation on suspension components. And of course, recommend using polyurethane bushings on both front and rear control arms (Prothane has worked good for me). C-F-M also has some tubular front control arms that have the hyme joint and will also give you adjustable camber, but they are $$$. I have them on my SVT and they feel like good quality, but haven’t decided yet if they were worth the extra cost.

What are your plans for the engine?

Look forward to seeing updates on your build.

Ron
 

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Very nice work so far. This car is going to turn out great based on what I see so far. Besides the poly bushings and alignment improvements mentioned above, I would look at some lowering springs that are higher rate than stock. Foci handle very well stock, but have a lot of body roll. Rather than just trying to control it with bigger sway bars, stiffer springs and lowering the car's CG will give better handling results overall.

If you are not going to put the interior back in, there's a lot of weight that can be cut out of the car without making it rattle or sound like a tin can. On the doors and tailgate, draw a line just inboard of where the seal flanges touch the door and TG inner panels, and get rid of all the material inside of where the rubber seals touch the doors and TG. That was the first step of lightening we did with our racecar, and it still sounds like a stock car when closing the doors, etc. No rattles, or tin can sound... A rule of thumb is that a reduction of each 100 lbs is worth 1 second per lap.

Most importantly, if you are going to track the car, and have any reasonable amount of grip, you ARE going to break the stock front hubs, or evn stock parts store, or Ford replacements. When that happens, it also breaks the CV axle off, and sometimes damages the caliper/rotor/caliper mount. There is also risk of losing the wheel completely, or displacing it far enough to damage the fender. The solution for this is replacing the stock hubs with 4340 billet hubs. They're not cheap, but when you add up the collateral damage costs and time, plus the danger of a possible crash or rollover due to a broken hub, the price begins to make a lot more sense. I've seen it happen too may times, and have a folder full of pics of people's broken hubs. I've become a preacher about this, and folks who have turned their nose to me, have later come back and wanted these hubs. Refer to the link below for a thread that has more info about this topic.

https://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/brakes-suspension-body-chassis/803114-focus-mk-1-mk2-billet-hubs-need-any.html

Good luck with your build. I would mention that we build custom rollcages if you're going that route, but it looks like you're in a warm Southwest climate, far from me. What are your engine plans?
 

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Great start on your build....Motorwise, I'd do a 23/25 D-tech. You'll want to go w/ the billet front hubs & CFM's tubular A-arms as mentioned...I prefer the K/W c/o's unless your going w/ a fixed package such as H&R race springs w/ Koni yellows or Bilsteins or Penske's. IDK what bbk your going w/? Baer brakes offers a 13'' kit w/ pbr calipers or you can go w/ their 6 piston calipers that'll clear the oem 17'' wheels. They also have 2 piece rotors for less weight. I like their rotors the best & the CFM A-arms are well worth it as well as a diff. The Steeda rear race bar works great, James Barone racing offers a Tru-Torsion comp rear bar thats adjustable....Looking forward to see your build & which way you go...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Great looking build and I like the white. I assume the plan is to leave it gutted since you are going to make it a track car. Any plans to put in a roll cage?

For suspension, I like my BC Racing coilovers. BC only sells their base performance coilovers for the fSVT, but I like all the adjustability and the performance feels very consistent across all four corners. You will likely want to go with aftermarket rear toe and camber arms to dial in the alignment for the track. Factory alignment is not track friendly and the OEM arms are not adjustable. Both Massive Speed System and Megan Racing offer some good ones. I’m using the Massive ones and like the metal bushings verse the rubber or polyurethane bushings. I'm sure others have some good recommendation on suspension components. And of course, recommend using polyurethane bushings on both front and rear control arms (Prothane has worked good for me). C-F-M also has some tubular front control arms that have the hyme joint and will also give you adjustable camber, but they are $$$. I have them on my SVT and they feel like good quality, but haven’t decided yet if they were worth the extra cost.

What are your plans for the engine?

Look forward to seeing updates on your build.

Ron
Thanks for the suspension recommendations. Looks like BC makes some quality stuff. Definitly going with the tubular front and adjustable rear arms. I'm still debating anything engine at the moment. I have been in contact with Kugel Komponents. Waiting to get some more information on their rear end conversion kit.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Very nice work so far. This car is going to turn out great based on what I see so far. Besides the poly bushings and alignment improvements mentioned above, I would look at some lowering springs that are higher rate than stock. Foci handle very well stock, but have a lot of body roll. Rather than just trying to control it with bigger sway bars, stiffer springs and lowering the car's CG will give better handling results overall.

If you are not going to put the interior back in, there's a lot of weight that can be cut out of the car without making it rattle or sound like a tin can. On the doors and tailgate, draw a line just inboard of where the seal flanges touch the door and TG inner panels, and get rid of all the material inside of where the rubber seals touch the doors and TG. That was the first step of lightening we did with our racecar, and it still sounds like a stock car when closing the doors, etc. No rattles, or tin can sound... A rule of thumb is that a reduction of each 100 lbs is worth 1 second per lap.

Most importantly, if you are going to track the car, and have any reasonable amount of grip, you ARE going to break the stock front hubs, or evn stock parts store, or Ford replacements. When that happens, it also breaks the CV axle off, and sometimes damages the caliper/rotor/caliper mount. There is also risk of losing the wheel completely, or displacing it far enough to damage the fender. The solution for this is replacing the stock hubs with 4340 billet hubs. They're not cheap, but when you add up the collateral damage costs and time, plus the danger of a possible crash or rollover due to a broken hub, the price begins to make a lot more sense. I've seen it happen too may times, and have a folder full of pics of people's broken hubs. I've become a preacher about this, and folks who have turned their nose to me, have later come back and wanted these hubs. Refer to the link below for a thread that has more info about this topic.

https://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/brakes-suspension-body-chassis/803114-focus-mk-1-mk2-billet-hubs-need-any.html

Good luck with your build. I would mention that we build custom rollcages if you're going that route, but it looks like you're in a warm Southwest climate, far from me. What are your engine plans?
Ill keep you in mind for the hubs. Hopefully you will have another group buy soon. Thanks for the heads up. I would love a custom roll cage. I will probably just pull the trigger on the Autopower Bolt in cage unless someone has a better idea. Do you have any pics of your race car?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Great start on your build....Motorwise, I'd do a 23/25 D-tech. You'll want to go w/ the billet front hubs & CFM's tubular A-arms as mentioned...I prefer the K/W c/o's unless your going w/ a fixed package such as H&R race springs w/ Koni yellows or Bilsteins or Penske's. IDK what bbk your going w/? Baer brakes offers a 13'' kit w/ pbr calipers or you can go w/ their 6 piston calipers that'll clear the oem 17'' wheels. They also have 2 piece rotors for less weight. I like their rotors the best & the CFM A-arms are well worth it as well as a diff. The Steeda rear race bar works great, James Barone racing offers a Tru-Torsion comp rear bar thats adjustable....Looking forward to see your build & which way you go...
The car is stripped of all brake lines and equipment. I will need a new master cylinder, lines, rotors, calipers... the whole set up. That Baer kit is mighty expensive. Very nice but pricey. I might just have to take it to a shop and have then work all this out. Motor is still up in the air for now. Thanks for your suggestions.
 

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There are a lot of places that sell seat brackets. Sparco, Corbeau or OMP all make brackets that will bolt to a Focus and can be fit with "sliders" (adjustable tracks) and then have the sliders bolt to side brackets for race seats. That's the setup we have in our endurance racing SVT.

I'll see if I can attach some pics.
 

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Here we go...
 

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Am I missing the two front angled bars that should leave at the A post to go to strut towers to greatly strengthen the entire front end? Like the rear ones that tie into frame by the fire extinguisher. Missing a great chance to really stiffen up the front end there.
 

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@amc49 - That's a very good point you made. IF you are referring to my car, yes, I have tubes running from the A-pillar bars to the front shock towers. They can be seen in these pics. The tubes out to the front shock towers are angled to stiffen the towers in a crosscar as well as fore/aft direction.
 

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