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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can someone steer me to a wiring diagram for the 2001 SE Wagon, just got one, no parking/running lights, would be a big help, thanks,
Seann
 

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In case Autozone has no diagrams and _PLEASE report back whether they do or not

The Ford Focus factory schematic is not so simple
You have turns signals/stop/hazard lights 6 pages of schematic
Liftgate washer wiper 1 page of schematic
Reversing lamps 3 pages of schematics
Exterior lamps 3 pages of schematics
Power door locks 2 pages of schematics

Of course not all schematics apply to any one vehicle

Ebay has two Ford Focus factory wiring manuals for slightly less than $10.00 including shipping!

What is wrong with your car is the wires inside the umbilical are cracked/shorted.
When replacing the wires, use electronic solder and heat shrink tubing and do the splicing on either side of the umbilical not inside the umbilical
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks, I'll let you know what I hear back from Autozone...is there a specific location in the harness that is more prone to failure where I should start looking? Not sure what you are referring to as the umbilical. Also, is this an overheating/current issue or just age?
 

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Seann:

OK open up the wagon hatch. Do you see the rubber 'hose' where all the wiring goes to the hatch? The wiring is cracked inside that

""""Also, is this an overheating/current issue or just age? """"

Well that is an interesting question: The early Focuses seem to have this problem 2000 to 2003 with very rare reports of later years. 2007 was the last year of the wagon. I think maybe the wire harness was laid in wrong or more correctly ,they figured out how to lay the harness to give it more flexibility.

Then again maybe being in a cold climate, the wires crack more easily: don't know

There seems to be three different sizes of wires used, while it would be easy to just say use all large wires, maybe there is available space issue: don't know.

The best way is to go to a junkyard and to cut out a section of the wire harness
 

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Seann:

OK open up the wagon hatch. Do you see the rubber 'hose' where all the wiring goes to the hatch? The wiring is cracked inside that

""""Also, is this an overheating/current issue or just age? """"

Well that is an interesting question: The early Focuses seem to have this problem 2000 to 2003 with very rare reports of later years. 2007 was the last year of the wagon. I think maybe the wire harness was laid in wrong or more correctly ,they figured out how to lay the harness to give it more flexibility.

Then again maybe being in a cold climate, the wires crack more easily: don't know

There seems to be three different sizes of wires used, while it would be easy to just say use all large wires, maybe there is available space issue: don't know.

The best way is to go to a junkyard and to cut out a section of the wire harness
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Pulled the rear section apart to get at wiring...someone had been there before. A real "dogs breakfast" of a repair, all big wires (the same colour), crimp on connectors, and all right where the kink is. Not great. Cut that all out, got a section of harness from a wrecker and pieced it in properly. Didn't fix the no parking light problem, but at least eliminated an obvious possible cause. License plate lamps were both unplugged and dangling inside door, if I attach 12 volts to lamps, I get rear tail lights but nothing else, doesn't seem to be getting past harness plug in left rear quarter to light fronts. No fuses are blown.
 

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I should have remembered...
The wagon tail lights overheat and the plastic sort of gets soft- messes up the socket.
On mine I had to get the Dremel motor out and carve away the excess plastic.

Now the lamp used is the more powerful one-draws more current-get hotter more.
There is a lamp that takes less current and of course gets less hot.

I asked at the Ford dealership whether there was any service bulletins at the time -NOPE
But then i was told the wagon only comprises 5% of the Focus fleet and problems might not get the attention of Ford to issue a bulletin or change the tail light assembly.

Oh yes I had to get two new sockets
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
With wiring all redone I can now backfeed 12 volts at tail lights and light up the complete parking lamp system (front to back, dash lights, everything). I just can't control it from the headlight switch.
 

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Reference: Ford Focus 2000 wiring manual

Page is titled: Position and Parking Lamps, 3 door model, wagon

Central Junction Box Fuse F32 at 10 Amp
This goes to the light switch

From there it goes to two fuses
left side Central junction box F47 7.5 Amp
right side Central junction box F48 7.5 Amp

each side goes to front and back

Now IF you can light up the front parking lights then your switch is OK as well as all your fuses

You really ought to get a Ford wiring manual as there are subtle changes between the years. For Chilton and for Haynes manuals they can only include a general wiring diagram.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Looks like everything is good, F32 was blown, now that the wiring is repaired at the back, that fuse shouldn't let go again. This car had a major leak from a rusted oil pan, I got another (slightly better) oil pan while at the wrecker, cleaned it up, welded the pin hole, then coated it with Plastikote spray bedliner. So far, so good. Just have to fix the flex pipe exhaust leak and it'll be ready for the road.Thanks for your input, much appreciated,
Seann
 
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