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Looks fairly straight forward, but I was wondering if I NEED to remove the converter pipe for this. The oil pan looks like it has plenty of room for removal.

Confirm?


Also, side note, are these seat belts in the front seat known to stick? If I pull them out to quickly they trigger the locking mechanism. Any fix besides replacement?

Thanks all!
 

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For the seat belt portion, that's operating as designed. Would you want them NOT to lock with a quick movement?

It would be a problem only if you couldn't pull them out slowly for use.
 

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X2. let 'em lock, the easier they do it the more likely they keep your face off the steering wheel.

Don't have to remove converter pipe but watch closely the bolts that have clearance notches cut in bracket, not enough clearance, it loads your socket sideways and strips bolts by cross thread. EASY to do there. Plenty of room to pull pan out.
 

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I have a stupid question here:

Rock Auto lists:
FEL-PRO Part # OS30831 - Lower
FEL-PRO Part # OS30711R - Upper

The lower looks like the correct spacing for the pan to the block?

Where does the upper one go?

Thanks in advance!!!
 

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"Upper Pan" to block.

Aluminum part between steel pan & block - what it's called varies.
 

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Sort of a mid level oil pan thingie there. It imitates the old school main cap girdles often used on older engines, lighter since part of block is then aluminum, big weight savings there. Aluminum saves on machine tool costs over cast iron as well. It's a windage tray too so slight fuel saving there. The aluminum also ties the trans to engine better than a simple steel pan would. Block support is more as well.

Basically a two story multi-level oil pan there. Showing how much tech now used trying to keep engine friction from affecting fuel economy.
 
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