Focus Fanatics Forum banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My car was built December 2000 in Wayne so I must have the pre recall fuel pump with plastic retaining ring in the bottom of the tank. My research says all new pumps require cutting four black tabs at the bottom of the tank to remove the retaining ring so the new pump will sit on the bottom of the tank. I found pictures of the ring but don't see black tabs. I found threads talking about it but the pics are gone. Any ideas?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16,577 Posts
The tabs aren't black and never were, they were simply indicated in black in a picture to show where to cut. They are actually same color as rest of the ring is. Pics are indeed gone, you're pretty much on your own there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16,577 Posts
You get the new pump and then prelocate where it sits and then simply remove what would stop it from sitting flat. The 'tabs' could even be cut with a razor blade if you were careful. Utility knife like box cutter for sure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16,577 Posts
The retaining lock ring is a separate part that sonic welded to the bottom of tank, I just ran into one post that said the ring was black plastic, that could also be what the 'black tabs' are about. My two cars had the ring the same color as the rest of tank.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I don't plan doing this job myself. Dropping the tank is more than I want to tackle without a lift. I talked to one mechanic I trust (more or less) and his parts supplier has Airtex pumps, but I've read too many early failures with them. He will let me bring parts (no labor warranty though) and Bosch is supposed to be good but they say there's counterfeits on the market. Rock Auto has the very pricey Motorcraft ($350) for $205 so maybe that's the way to go. Don't want to repeat this job and pay for labor again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I found a thread with pictures of black tabs, what's left of them after removal (attachments in post #17).

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16,577 Posts
There you go..........the net seems to be cleaning house, I used to be able to pull up 3-4 pics of that even a short year ago, now they are all gone.

I should probably point out that I still use the old snap-in-bottom module case in both my cars, I modded the new style pump which absolutely does not work to then work fine. But you don't want to go there. Several things have to change and you have to create some new pieces. Otherwise, using the newer style pump goes to creating all kinds of trouble in a day or week or....many here have done that to only get problem after problem, mine have run fine for years, but then I changed what needed to.

ALL pump brands will give you trouble in short order if you start car back up with anything under 3 gallons of fuel to prime the pump, I typically use 5. Running out of gas is another pump killer but getting that across to all those who insist on never filling up is why I warrantied so many pumps back in the day..........of all brands. You can look at the impellers to tell they have been melted from running pump low on fuel. Ethanol is another killer too. There is a small pinhole on the bottom of all pumps and another bleed port on the top and if the various often crap fitting rubbers they supply with pump since they cannot pack the 200 or so different OEM fit ones, if those rubbers block that port then the pump does not prime and you burn it up in about 60 seconds of dry running when an air bubble lodges in it. Both those ports must be open to flood the inside of pump before you ever turn it on, I've had to cut holes to expose the bottom hole when a desired rubber isolator did not line up to bleed that hole. No pump literature ever goes over that part at all, simply saying to key on-off several times to bleed it. I usually go far enough to open up a module case to check for that. That kind of stuff is why there are so many 'bad brand new pumps' out there that countless people bring back ruined. I took back so many I lost count.

FYI, the top pump electrical connector will likely give you fits getting it loose as they use an oddball 3 way detent that absolutely must have all 3 pressed in completely before it comes loose. I bought cheap crap Harbor Freight mini needlenose pliers and heated the tips red hot to bend them in toward each other and it then works to pinch the side detents in of the connector while you also push in the third one. Believe me, that crap tool is worth its' weight in gold and so far I've not seen anything like it for sale. The right tool for the job as you have said. Otherwise many people break that connector trying to get it apart.

I for one cut a pump access hole in my cars to not have to drop the tank, dropping on older cars often tears or flaws evap fittings and filler hoses that then you have to repair and no more parts to do it with except at scrapyards. Cutting the hole sucks but once done is a boon, you can change a pump in under 30 minutes then.

Yours and do as you will of course.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top