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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It's leaking !! Today I went to work about 16 miles one way and parked. I sit in car about 15-min and noticed a huge puddle under the car. Topped the reservoir off with water almost a gallon and drove home same distance. Let it sit again for 15-min and now the reservoir is still full and water is dripping from the bottom of the radiator slowly. Anybody care to share instructions on how to pull the old and in with a new ?
Thanks for any info.......
 

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Can't help with a blow by blow description of changing the radiator, just wanted to mention that the crossover tube above it is a common problem area (plastic) and should be checked to make sure a leak there isn't ending up on the radiator & dripping.

Much cheaper/easier fix, so it's worth a look to make sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Can't help with a blow by blow description of changing the radiator, just wanted to mention that the crossover tube above it is a common problem area (plastic) and should be checked to make sure a leak there isn't ending up on the radiator & dripping.

Much cheaper/easier fix, so it's worth a look to make sure.
Sailor..
Man, I wish it was the crossover tube !! I had to change that a couple of years ago and that it not the leak. All of my visuals are pointing at the radiator about mid ways up or so in behind the fans. [dunno]

Thanks for your input as I do appreciate it !!
 

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Look again, the new tube if Dorman brand may be bad again. The radiators commonly crack the plastic end tanks rather than in the middle of the aluminum span, although it IS possible. Just the lesser possibility usually.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Look again, the new tube if Dorman brand may be bad again. The radiators commonly crack the plastic end tanks rather than in the middle of the aluminum span, although it IS possible. Just the lesser possibility usually.
Makes sense on what you are saying on the leak location on the actual radiator. I will triple check the cross tube as I don't remember the name brand. Still hoping somebody has the know how on the R and R of the radiator just in case !!
Thanks for your input..[like]
 

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Fan assembly comes out then radiator, both come out bottom so car must go up in the air a bit. Fan assembly simply unsnaps after disconnecting harnesses, but extending the retaining clips will break them easy as spit. The top clip on both sides pry to back of car until the tab frees up going UP, the bottom tabs simply rest in slot and will come right up too. Radiator BOTTOM support comes out to drop radiator in your face after hoses undone. Condenser clips to radiator, you pop it loose on bottom after using like wire to wire the top outside ends to keep it from falling out of place, it stays with car.
 

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Hey I live in the s.e. area of Houston. Pulled a few radiators and wouldn't mind helping if you drive to me. Pm me if you need the help or a texting walk through.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Fan assembly comes out then radiator, both come out bottom so car must go up in the air a bit. Fan assembly simply unsnaps after disconnecting harnesses, but extending the retaining clips will break them easy as spit. The top clip on both sides pry to back of car until the tab frees up going UP, the bottom tabs simply rest in slot and will come right up too. Radiator BOTTOM support comes out to drop radiator in your face after hoses undone. Condenser clips to radiator, you pop it loose on bottom after using like wire to wire the top outside ends to keep it from falling out of place, it stays with car.
Alright,
Thanks so much for the info. I'm going to triple check that cross tube on top.
Based on the info you have provided, I don't think I can handle this type of R and R and it would most likely take me all day trying to get it right.
Thanks again for your time to post the instructions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hey I live in the s.e. area of Houston. Pulled a few radiators and wouldn't mind helping if you drive to me. Pm me if you need the help or a texting walk through.
Yes Sir,
I will certainly send you a PM. I'm glad to know that you have the know how and are willing to help a total stranger !!
I really do appreciate that !! I'm going to triple check that cross tube later today.
Thanks again for your willingness to help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Look again, the new tube if Dorman brand may be bad again. The radiators commonly crack the plastic end tanks rather than in the middle of the aluminum span, although it IS possible. Just the lesser possibility usually.
amc49
You are correct !!!
Drove home today without AC and parked car. I let it idle for about 10-min. Leak is to the right of the drain plug slightly above where the metal and plastic meet on the radiator. There's a hole and once the temp is high and pressurized it starts to drip fast and then starts spewing about 2' out of the hole !! Once that happens it empty's the reservoir.
It's almost like I could take some type of puddy / epoxy or something and that may slow the leak. [dunno]
What do you think, still replace the radiator ?
 

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Yep, the cracks only grow as the plastic has degraded internally. Remove a side tank and you can scrape deep into the plastic with a fingernail, it simply crumbles apart. I got one setting to the side right now I need to go to the yard to pull a sidetank to fix it.
 

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Since its plastic an epoxy wouldn't hold onto the non-porous material. Plus as the radiator gets hot and cold it "flexes" for say. Hard exposé would just chip off. RTV on the other hand would work IF the area is very clean no liquids of any sort in the area. As in prep area with carb or brake clean before trying to seal it up. So in other words just replace the radiator and it would be done right.
 

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Epoxy is what, $10. And bound to fail.

A new radiator is about $100 and will fix the problem. Takes all of 1.5 hours to change.
4 bolts for lower support and undo the electrical and hose clamps. Really nothing to it.


Kinda an easy choice if ya ask me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Since its plastic an epoxy wouldn't hold onto the non-porous material. Plus as the radiator gets hot and cold it "flexes" for say. Hard exposé would just chip off. RTV on the other hand would work IF the area is very clean no liquids of any sort in the area. As in prep area with carb or brake clean before trying to seal it up. So in other words just replace the radiator and it would be done right.
Thanks Bro !!!
Sorry we missed each other yesterday. I'll try to send you a text later on today.
 

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FYI, in no way will RTV hold as well as epoxy there, simply just that epoxy will not fix the tendency for crack to grow, done correctly it COULD stop the initial leak but why bother?

Modern auto plastics often do not glue well at all using ANYTHING, especially if an oily base plastic that will release any known glue to the civilized world. FRP can to an extent if the plastic is roughed up to get some tooth but kiss it goodbye if made of ABS. Problem with FRP is that it usually is biodegraded to make the issue, by then it's crumbling enough to make any fix short lasting until the fix crumbles loose too. The (POM) nylon doesn't glue for spit either. A piece here or there is polystyrene (PS), which airplane glue will glue together but not much. Most pieces are marked on the back with the type of plastic.
 
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