[chadh8806]

Hello everyone,

This is my first thread here, although I've been a member here for some time.

I'm going to install a wet nitrous kit on my ZX3 (Edelbrock 70001, http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-70001). The one I have was originally made for a carbureted setup, not an EFI. So, I'm buying a nozzle and I have to find the right jet sizes to use.

I would like to produce an extra 25 hp. The car is completely stock, other than a K&N replacement air filter. I'm quite worried about getting the nos/fuel ratio wrong. From the research that I've done so far, I think I should use a 31 and an 18.

Can you guys help me figure out the right jet sizes to buy?

Thank you everyone for your time.
-Chad

 

[chadh8806]

Does anyone have any information at all about nitrous jet sizes? Such as sizes you've used before, etc...? Thank you again.

 

[zetecDon]

Moved to "General Forced Induction".

 

[chadh8806]

anybody?

 

[sailor]

Might take a bit for a reply, the only member I know offhand who uses Nitrous regularly in an otherwise stock Focus isn't on all the time (and he has a MkII).

 

[SPIinDisguise]

Might take a bit for a reply, the only member I know offhand who uses Nitrous regularly in an otherwise stock Focus isn't on all the time (and he has a MkII).

I was going to recommend him earlier, Talking about he who resides in florida right?

 

[sailor]

Yah, SlickWilly came right to mind but he hasn't been on a lot lately.

 

[SlickWilly]

Measure your fuel pressure at the rail first, pretty much all vendors that sell a kit will have a conversion table. You want to know YOUR fuel pressure at the rail, not the estimated pressure.

Also be sure to run a fuel pressure safety switch, this shuts down the system in a event of dropped fuel pressure. You will need a C-F-M nitrous fuel rail adapter too (40$).


There is actually two of us nitrous Foci's in Orlando, Fl and the other one is a 07 Yellow hatch that is a lot faster than me.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lvhLjl7Id_w

 

[1turbofocus]

To do it right you need a wideband air fuel gauge so you know what the air fuel actually is and a tune

Tom

 

[SlickWilly]

I would agree on the wide band it would be wise.

 

[SlickWilly]

Before you go dropping 400$ on a tune please consider investing it somewhere else. Your car will be a whole new animal on nitrous and you need care for it properly.

For one, I have never heard anyone having any luck on a tune with nitrous.

Two, you might blow your tires off with even a small shot, so be ready to put some better tires on it. I run a summer only 120 treadware track and street use tire, they're real sticky but real expensive. You will also want to consider doing some maintenance such as a rear motor mount, make sure your suspension is tight, change the spark plugs, check trans fluid ect.

I run pretty much stock except for pulleys header and the nitrous because having the tune, intake and rest of the exhaust made my car drive like a big pig. Since going to stock on pretty much everything except stated I have shave 4/10ths of a second off both my nitrous times and my N/A times. Also on a plus side my car is much more consistent and a smoother driver rather than peaky and in your face.

I sure as hell trust the engineers at Ford before I would a guy who has "experience". Less is more. This is just my not trying to make money off of you experience, take it for what it is worth.

 

[1turbofocus]

Before you go dropping 400$ on a tune please consider investing it somewhere else. Your car will be a whole new animal on nitrous and you need care for it properly.

For one, I have never heard anyone having any luck on a tune with nitrous.

Two, you might blow your tires off with even a small shot, so be ready to put some better tires on it. I run a summer only 120 treadware track and street use tire, they're real sticky but real expensive. You will also want to consider doing some maintenance such as a rear motor mount, make sure your suspension is tight, change the spark plugs, check trans fluid ect.

I run pretty much stock except for pulleys header and the nitrous because having the tune, intake and rest of the exhaust made my car drive like a big pig. Since going to stock on pretty much everything except stated I have shave 4/10ths of a second off both my nitrous times and my N/A times. Also on a plus side my car is much more consistent and a smoother driver rather than peaky and in your face.

I sure as hell trust the engineers at Ford before I would a guy who has "experience". Less is more. This is just my not trying to make money off of you experience, take it for what it is worth.

A tune for a modded Focus is the best investment and money saver you can do for your Focus , with nitrous timing needs to be retarded and fuel needs to be added , a nitrous kit on every engine I have done it not what it should be at and only a tune can correct this

I also trust most of the engineers at Ford but they didnt set your Focus or ECU for nitrous and the engine and ECU has no idea you added it to make adjustments for it

Who did the tune for your Focus that made it drive like a big pig ?

Nitrous to be safe needs a wide band air fuel gauge and a tune for it , can it be run with out it , sure you may get lucky and run it that way but why not do it right and by doing it right you will be able to run a larger shot of nitrous

Tom

 

[SlickWilly]

I've never ran a tune on my focus from 35 shot to a 100 shot, the only tune I did have was one that was from "you" (I was told it was your tune, I have no idea so I wont judge you for the tune) years ago before I was the owner of the car. I returned to stock and sold the tuner months ago.

Fuel adjustments should be made by the fueling jet, I've never run lean running nitrous except when I had my intake on my car, but then it just ran lean all the time. I have a digital wideband.

I've also ran nitrous in my previous cars including tons of passes of a 200 shot on a stock LT1 Z28.

You do have to retard timing but on a 35 shot it would only be a half degree to a degree which can be knocked down by good gas. It wasn't until I ran the 100 shot until I got a slight knock. I normally run a strong 50 shot.

I am not disagreeing with your tuning idea so much as I am disagreeing with it being first (if that is what your implying, may not) I really think normal performance maintenance should be done first such as the tires and stuff. Then if he sprays and he still wants more a tune would set great here, especially with a cheap set of cams.

 

[1turbofocus]

I've never ran a tune on my focus from 35 shot to a 100 shot, the only tune I did have was one that was from "you" (I was told it was your tune, I have no idea so I wont judge you for the tune) years ago before I was the owner of the car. I returned to stock and sold the tuner months ago.

Fuel adjustments should be made by the fueling jet, I've never run lean running nitrous except when I had my intake on my car, but then it just ran lean all the time. I have a digital wideband.

I've also ran nitrous in my previous cars including tons of passes of a 200 shot on a stock LT1 Z28.

You do have to retard timing but on a 35 shot it would only be a half degree to a degree which can be knocked down by good gas. It wasn't until I ran the 100 shot until I got a slight knock. I normally run a strong 50 shot.

I am not disagreeing with your tuning idea so much as I am disagreeing with it being first (if that is what your implying, may not) I really think normal performance maintenance should be done first such as the tires and stuff. Then if he sprays and he still wants more a tune would set great here, especially with a cheap set of cams.

So you have no idea if it was my tune file so please dont say it was mine , not trying to be an ars , My tunes work

You have brought up a good point and the one I was hoping you would , for you to " hear " knock means that there was more knock before but the ECU was retarding it so you far exceeded the ability for the ECU to keep your engine safe and it was past the ECU ability to retard timing , THATS A LOT OF TIMING that needed to be taken out over 5-7 deg

The rule of thumb for nitrous on the ones I have tuned ( talking Focus ) they need 1.5 to 3 deg retarded to keep it from showing knock for a 50 shot , some as much as 5 deg all depending on the fuel octane , load etc

I would bet my milkshake money if you log your Focus with the 100 shot you have CONSIDERABLE knock even on 93 and more then likely some on pure 100

The nice thing about a tune is the knock sensor can be set to add timing in and take timing out , adjust the sensitivity how much over a given time or engine PIP

I understand what your saying but I feel engine safety should be the first thing that needs to be done and not just because I sell tuning but because a engine cost far more then all the rest of the mods to mod your Focus that you listed

Tom

 

[chadh8806]

Alright, I've figured everything out.

Fuel pressure resides around 40 - 50 psi, and nos pressure should be between 750 and 950.

To stay safe, you should try and run rich, always using more fuel then needed at the cost of power but added protection against detenation.

Using the one nitrous calculator I could find, http://www.robietherobot.com/nitrousjetcalculator.htm, a jet size of .026 you get these results:
-------------------
The Fuel jet size should be 0.014" or 0.363mm

A Nitrous jet size of .026" or 0.6604mm should produce:
30.53 HP with 1 port(s)

Actual HP to the wheels: 25.95 HP
-------------------

To be safe, to get around 25 HP out you use a .026 and an oversized fuel jet, .016.

I'll post some more info later if I come across anything.

 

[1turbofocus]

Your fuel psi will never hit 50psi , lucky to hit 45 , this is why you need a wide band air fuel gauge

Nitrous psi will very much more then that as well , with more nitrous psi you need for fuel

Tom