[Senko86]

Hi Guys,

I was driving last weekend and while trying to accelerate the car would bog down like it wasn't getting any gas which it did have! At half throttle was running fine but after that it would almost die. I get to my buddies house and when I go to leave I cannot start the car up again. He has a basic diagnostic computer and it throws the P1233 code which I have been reading about the FPDM possibly being bad or the pump itself. After running the code I went and got a new FPDM put it in and unhooked the negative to reset the computer. Tried to start it and same problem turns over but won't start but the code is gone now. When you turn the key you can hear the pump kick on for about 1-2 seconds then stops like its up to pressure. Just to check we unhooked the fuel line from the rail and turn the key and gas lightly squirts out so it should be getting some gas. We tested spark and put new plugs not the issue. I checked the inertia switch and it is not popped out so thinking thats not the problem . I am at a loss if it has spark and gas getting to the motor why won't it even sputter like its trying to start? Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks,
Justin

 

[sailor]

You need 40 psi of fuel pressure, not just flow to run.

Use that scanner to see what pressure you're getting.

 

[Senko86]

Will low pressure cause it to not start at all? It doesn't even try to fire.

 

[sailor]

Low pressure = not enough fuel into the cyl..

Pull the trigger on a hose when the faucet is turned on, then try it with the faucet off & pressure relieved - MIGHT get a dribble at best.

 

[Senko86]

Ok so update on this problem. replaced the fuel pump tons of pressure to the rail still won't start. I hooked up the computer and I am getting two codes P1288 Cylinder Head Temp Sensor out of Self Test Range and P1709 Park Neutral Position Switch out of Self Test Range. Does anyone know if these codes would stop the car from starting? I have a buddy that said because of the extreme cold we had when it broke down sometimes you can have a timing belt jump a tooth and mess everything up but wouldn't that throw some sort of code? Please help!

 

[sailor]

First code number can just mean the engine is cold from the DTC list in the How to's here. Second is an odd one, put that aside for now assuming it's cranking.

How are you checking fuel pressure? Scan tool should help with that, only way to test without making a special test hose setup with a gauge.

Yes, timing can be off from a timing belt problem. Compression test will actually give a good idea if it's close without pulling the valve cover to check it, and peeking in the fill cap is a quick way to see if cams turn at all (short crank).

You aren't going to get a "code" for timing on this one, there needs to be a way for electronics to check something to get a code & this engine can't sense cam timing.

Have you checked for spark?

What do the plugs look like?

 

[Senko86]

OK so I replaced the plugs right after the break down but going to test spark on all plugs tonight. My buddies computer will not bring up any info on fuel pressure I just know I put a new pump in and when I pop it off the rail there is a lot of pressure. I know very little about the computer he has. The engine is cranking but you can tell it is not firing like there is fuel. The P1233 code is no longer showing up.

 

[sailor]

Sounds like your bud's setup is a code reader only, not much help with an engine that doesn't run.

So, keep the basics in mind as you work on this - Spark, Fuel, Compression, Timing.

If ALL those are correct, an engine WILL run.

Looking at plugs is one clue to what happens inside the engine, like if they come out wet & smelling of gas you know there's fuel but something else is missing so it doesn't burn.

See what you can figure out on those lines when you can get back to it.

 

[Senko86]

Ok I will check that out and post results hopefully tomorrow thank you for the help on this I really appreciate it!

 

[Senko86]

So after it is all said and done I took it to a shop with a scanner to check it out and the timing belt is stripped. Right before I parked the car I rev'd it and then it died. The bad fuel pump (unknown at the time) made me curious and I rev'd it causing the worn out belt to jump a tooth effectively killing the engine and causing my problem. I am now going to replace the belt myself and get her running again. The shop said to make sure that I don't have an interference engine. I have a 2000 ZTS with the Zetec anyone know offhand?

 

[sailor]

Not normally any interference (prob. no bent valves) with a Zetec - SVT version of zetec ALWAYS will, so you're lucky.

You'll need a timing tool set as well as a timing belt kit including new tensioner & idler pulley plus a fresh valve cover gasket as the minimum to get this done.