Focus Fanatics Forum banner

1 - 3 of 3 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi:

I have 2000 Ford Focus ZX3. The trunk lock would not engage so I remove the entire lock assembly and replace it from one I got from a salvage yard. Now, I need to remove the lock cylinder from my old assembly and place it into the new assembly. However, I do not know how to do this task. I review this site and YouTube for information but the descriptions, in words and video, do not match my 2000 part. Do I need to separate the plastic half from the metal half of the part to get at the back end of the cylinder?
 

Attachments

·
Multi-Focusing
Joined
·
3,868 Posts
When I can't find a "How To" thread for something I've always found that tearing it apart at the salvage yard is the easiest way to learn how not to do it...lol.

I always make sure there's at least 2 different cars I can get the part from. [cheers]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,163 Posts
Oh how Ford loves to do this stuff............the lock cylinder simply twists in like 1/3 turn to lock in, BUTTTTTT.................they lock it so you can't get it out. Look at your SECOND pic, see the raised boss molded into the right side of the lock cylinder? On the bottom side of the boss is a blind hole that does not expose all the way out the top but you remove (file or grind) enough material off the top of the boss to expose it. Maybe about as much as you see on the curved bevel until you are down into the overall biggest part of it, stop at the cornerline angle change of demarcation there. You'll have removed maybe 1/8" of material off the top of the boss. The hole will begin to expose to allow you to see what to grind/file next. There is a spring and a pin in hole that when the cylinder is twisted in the pin then pops out the bottom side to engage a hole in the larger lock body itself so the lock cannot come back off. A one time only thing. When top of hole is exposed fully you pull out the spring and pin and then change cylinder for the new one, thinking new one comes with a bolt that the hole is sized for to be tapped M6 1.0 probably, tap hole, easy, and then put pin back in without spring and simply screw bolt back down to pin cylinder again after it has been twisted back in place. Or, a repeat of the original idea, they CAN be fixed to be easily removeable though.

Example? Have parts place order you one and then pull part out of box and look at it, all becomes clear then.................

You can't get into the bigger part of main latch assembly there without destroying plastic there, intentional as well, it sells parts.
 
1 - 3 of 3 Posts
Top