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Discussion Starter #1
Seems my 2.0 dies if battery is not fully charged. When I jump it, it starts but doesn't run long. While running with a low battery the dash gauges and light goes crazy. All the lights starts blinking off and on and the gauge needles are bouncing back and forth.

If I put a full charge on the battery it runs for a couple days OK ant then all of a sudden the engine dies. Autozone says the battery is good. It's has 750 cca but Autozone says it has 525 cca.

I have replaced the coil pac twice. No.2 cylinder keeps going bad.

Help would be appreciated.
 

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I had the same issues. sounds like the alternator is not recharging the battery and it probably needs to be replaced. you have some kind of grounding issue as that was my issue.
I can tell you what my issue was and you can check if that is what is going on with you: I changed the alternator which seems to help for a while, changed the battery terminals which helped alot. now for the fun part...my engine kept stalling and sometimes, in the summer it would give me a guick code that would disapear (cylinder head temp), check you spark plugs and 1 or more would be toasted. now check the resistor in between the fans, pull that out, disconnect the adapter and see if that's fried, if it is replace both. then after you install the resister and adapter and the fans dont work check out relays 9 and 10, replace and enjoy.
Juan
 

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I have not run into that particular condition on my 00 Focus, however, when my battery starts to go, the needles on the guages jump back and forth. Even though the car started and ran, after battery replacement, problem went away. I think if I were you, I would replace the battery especially if you don't know the age. Hope that helps. Good luck.
 

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Voltage regulator perhaps? Which means you habe to replace the alternator since the voltage regulator is internal go to advance have them test the battery and the alternator
 

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Battery definitely COULD be "fried", despite passing one test at about 2/3 original capacity...

one cell shorting out can drain the whole system quickly - it's NOT usually an "intermittent", but it's possible.... your symptoms resemble what happens when that occurs...

Voltage checks would help, battery when shut off - at battery when running - and system voltage when driving & the issue occurs. Just hook up to a spare cigarette lighter plug for an easy way to check system voltage when driving...

Luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Tonight I started the car and turned the head lights on to see if there was a differecne in brightness from idle to high rpm. I read that if the alternator was bad it would go from dim to bright as the motor rev'ed higher rpm's.

The lights stayed bright from low to high rpm's. Tomorrow I will start the car and remove the neg. battery cable to see if the car continues to run or dies.
 

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DTC P0606
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Tomorrow I will start the car and remove the neg. battery cable to see if the car continues to run or dies.
Excellent idea. Other stupid tests you can perform:

If you drink a cupful of radiator fluid and then experience convulsions, nausea and vomiting, then your water/anti-freeze mix is just peachy.
If you quickly remove the radiator cap of a running car and scald yourself, then the cooling system is up to temperature.
If you grab hold of the accessory belt and lose your fingers then your car is running.
 

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See these links:

http://www.troubleshooters.com/dont_disconnect_battery.htm

If you disconnect your battery , it is very possible that you will FRY your computer and other electronic modules. and if you think you had problems before Ho Ho will you have problems now!

Go to Youtube and type this in for search:

Alternator battery voltmeter [alternatively use multimeter in place of voltmeter]

Learn to use a multimeter!!!

While there are those that will tell you how to turn your cluster into a battery reading voltmeter [true]

What that trick cannot do is read the AC on the battery. AC IF present means one or more diodes opened in your alternator

I use cheap Harbor Freight multimeters, while the 'normal' price might be around $10.00 I have seen them as low as $2.00

The days of disconnecting the battery to see if the alternator is good ended 30 years ago when electronics started to get installed in these cars

BC-ZX3 is absolutely funny!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
On everyones advice, I got a ohm meter. [:D]

Battery this morning before starting read 12.2V. After starting the battery read 14.7V. After shutting engine off battery read 13.2V. I take this as the battery and alternator are good and working properly.

Any other test I can perform? It will run for a couple days then all of a sudden while driving it just dies and battery act like it's dead.

Going out now to replace coil pack because no.2 cylinder is not firing. This will be the 3rd time I have changed coil pack because of this. It runs about 3 month OK then no.2 dies and I have to change pack out.

Any ideas why this cylinder keeps dieing?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
A big THANK YOU to everyone. Car running good now. Here's what was wrong. Coil pack bad and replaced. Spark plug wire no.2 bad, all replaced. Ground wire bad and replaced. Altenator seems to be doing fine and battery looks good.

Thanks for pointing me in the direction on getting a multimeter............this ole boy will never be without one again. All is well "South of Salt River".[thumb]



Excellent idea. Other stupid tests you can perform:

If you drink a cupful of radiator fluid and then experience convulsions, nausea and vomiting, then your water/anti-freeze mix is just peachy.
If you quickly remove the radiator cap of a running car and scald yourself, then the cooling system is up to temperature.
If you grab hold of the accessory belt and lose your fingers then your car is running.
.....and to my friend in Canada, Thanks for your contribution.[joke]
 

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Although it seems your vehicle is fixed now...

Good test to see if alternator is fried...

Set meter to AC Volts... A good alternator will read zero AC volts on the battery

Of course, your alternator could still be fried even if you see no AC volts on the battery

Anyway, I stopped at convenience store for eats

Saw dead Honda car with hood up

Came over with meter

Discovered both loose battery clamps- fixed
still would not start. Put meter on battery and when he tried to start, the volts only dropped a half volt or something- told him battery is good, the solenoid is not kicking in the starter. He would not believe me so i humored him and tried to give him a jump same thing as before
 

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HeHe - LOVE the "yuks", and they pointed the OP in the right direction for a good fix...

Digger - Now that you have a meter, keep it handy in the car for a bit - so if you DO have another issue you can test it right there... intermittents can be a pain, and if you can't test when it happens, it takes FOREVER to find the problem...

Luck!
 

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Another idea

Get a 12 volt plug connect to meter

with that you can monitor the voltage while you are driving so in case of intermittent, you can 'divide and conquer' the problem
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well sadly to say it reared it's ugly head again. Died last night. Jumped it this morning and took it to autozone. They charged battery and ran a battery/starter/altenator test. Battery good, starter good, alternator test failed. Got it home and used the multimeter to check volts while running. Meter showed 12.6v while running.

Autozone said before paying the money ($160) for new alternator check all the ground wires first. I know the battery ground wire but where would the others be?
 

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DTC P0606
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On the Zetec engine - not sure what your 2.0 is - they are: from battery post to chassis (right side of battery), left rear cylinder head to chassis via engine lift hook, left front fender (by headlight) and right front fender (a little ways back from battery). It's probably a moot point anyway. 12.6V is battery voltage and zip coming from the alt. You should be seeing a consistent 13.5 to 14 V with a good alt. Bad grounds may give a lower or sporadic reading. Try cleaning grounds anyway; it's free and can't hurt.

You should definitely check the wiring connector going to the back of the alt - the wires within can become brittle and break with age - but it's more likely the voltage reg inside your alt that has died given the car's age. Ford makes a replacement wiring connector or "pigtail".

Personally, from what I've read on FF, Autozone electrical components, particularly Focus alts, are a bit hit and miss in terms of quality. The general advice given is to have the existing alt properly rebuilt by a qualified electrician (or get an expensive OEM replacement) since swapping faulty Autozone alts can be a time consuming, tedious job even if they do have a replacement warranty.
 

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That covers it...

If it makes you feel any better, at least the "intermittent" became a constant failure so it can be diagnosed & cured for good now....

Luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Checked what grounds I could. All look tight and in good shape. Trying to wrestle the altenator out now.

Is there a slick way to get that thing out? Got it loose but no wat to get it between the block and fan shroud.
 

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This must be a SPI motor. I haven't done one on mine yet, but can suggest removing the bolts for the pass side motor mount. That may give you more room. I thought this one would drop right out the bottom, guess not.
 
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