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Discussion Starter #1
1-4 on switch wasn't working for blower motor, not the normal 1-3 which would be the resistor. Saw fuse 64 was blown, replaced it and it blown again.

Checked the orange/green wire and black wire on blower motor and all checked out good. I pulled everything to get to the switch and the wires checked out good. I decided to pull the blower motor and bench test came back good.

Put everything back together. Fired the car up and tried the switch. It turned on, had it up to 4, AC and recirculate on too. It ran for a good 5-10 minutes and fuse blown. Put a new one in and fuse blown again.

I decided to let it sit and cool a couple hours, unplugged blower motor, checked wires again and good. Fired up car and did same thing 5-10 minutes ran good then blown fuse, put new one in right away and fuse blown.

Something happens when engine warms up.
Battery sitting good at 12.5v. With blower/AC running, about 13.8v.
 

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1-4 on switch wasn't working for blower motor, not the normal 1-3 which would be the resistor. Saw fuse 64 was blown, replaced it and it blown again.

Checked the orange/green wire and black wire on blower motor and all checked out good. I pulled everything to get to the switch and the wires checked out good. I decided to pull the blower motor and bench test came back good.

Put everything back together. Fired the car up and tried the switch. It turned on, had it up to 4, AC and recirculate on too. It ran for a good 5-10 minutes and fuse blown. Put a new one in and fuse blown again.

I decided to let it sit and cool a couple hours, unplugged blower motor, checked wires again and good. Fired up car and did same thing 5-10 minutes ran good then blown fuse, put new one in right away and fuse blown.

Something happens when engine warms up.
Battery sitting good at 12.5v. With blower/AC running, about 13.8v.
^^How did you test?

In the vehicle put an inductive current clamp meter (with 40A capability) on it and watch the DC current over time. If its rising then there is something wrong with the motor windings or mechanically.

Interestingly the same blower motor is used 00-07 yet the fuse spec is 30A 00-01 and 40A 02-07. I assume you are using a 30A fuse as specified for your 00 and Id be very curious to see how much current your motor is drawing over time.

Paul
 

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Yeah. The test method described by Paul is highly recommended. However, the blower motor is very likely the problem.

Some people nurse (maintain) that motor with cleaning and oil/lube it to extend motor life. I did this on mine, using 3-in-One oil.

Also, a new (aftermarket) motor assembly (with swirl cage) isn't too expensive either, less than $50?
 

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Like hinted at, the motor likely the reason, they run too hot and then the amp requirement goes up to pop the fuse. Dry oil-lite bushings make it happen. Or age of motor itself.

On the fuse value change I'd bet Ford figured out the computer suggested fuse did not hold up in real world testing, they bumped it up in response to warranty issues.
 

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You can always get to one end of the shaft but sometimes you have to improvise to get to the other, I have drilled strategic holes carefully to then oil the bushing and then I position the blower to let any overage drip slowly back out to stop it from migrating into the windings or brushes.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Sorry for delay in response. With everything running and on high, I got 25 A. The moment the fuse blew it jumped to 29A.
I ended up buying a new blower motor and the readings are 18A.
I noticed the difference on the two spinning by hand. Yes I think I can oil the old one and it will run fine.
Thought it had to get past 30A to blow so thought it was good still.

Now I have to figure out why the battery light keeps coming on intermittent, think I'll change out the alternator. I'll be back if that isn't the case.

Thank you!
 

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Now I have to figure out why the battery light keeps coming on intermittent, think I'll change out the alternator. I'll be back if that isn't the case.
Examine the connector that goes to the alternator. It has 3 small wires and is a known problem area due to vibration. Could be your issue. A replacement pigtail can be bought if necessary.
 
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