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'09 Coupe 2.5L swap
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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Little update since it’s been a few months...I’ve been busy! Here’s a list of what’s been done since the swap:

- Added “EXT TEMP” display to radio screen
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- New LED tail lights from EBay with medium smoke tint

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  • Debadged “FOCUS” from the decklid
  • Added Magnaflow high-flow CAT after header
  • LOTS of datalog tuning with Tom...pulls HARD!
  • Ceramic coated the paint
  • Put almost 10,000mi on the 2.5L! Love this car!

Plans for the next year:
  • Wireless CarPlay head unit install
  • Custom Arduino CAN-BUS shield to repurpose the defunct radio screen for performance gauges
  • Heated Seats (using original cloth seats, installing aftermarket kit but hooked up to factory harness. Upgraded HVAC control module already installed, with working heated seat buttons!)
  • Compass sensor install/enable display on radio screen (know how to enable in FORScan already, but it shows “- -“ because there isn’t a sensor. Working on that...)
  • Enable Perimeter Alarm in FORScan...just trying to hunt down whatever wire the SJB decides is the nonexistent hood switch, so I can short it to ground. When Perimeter Alarm is enabled, it suddenly decides it has a hood switch, which is false. So it refuses to arm the system, and thinks the hood is ajar. Oddly, I get no message on the IPC display, other than just the little red “door ajar” indicator light. Working on that too...

And now some random photos:



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- An important milestone:

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- Mt. Shasta

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That’s about it for now. I’ll keep posting updates as I make new discoveries/progress! Cheers
 

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  • Performance - Drivetrain:
    • New Exedy OEM-spec Clutch with Hydraulics: $569
Do you recall the exact Exedy clutch kit pn - Im having trouble finding anything from them for 2008+ Focus.

Thanks
Paul
 

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Do you recall the exact Exedy clutch kit pn - Im having trouble finding anything from them for 2008+ Focus.

Thanks
Paul
Works with duratec focuses up to 2011 and the 2.5 swap engines.

 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Looks great - thanks for the update.

Paul
Thanks Paul!

Do you recall the exact Exedy clutch kit pn - Im having trouble finding anything from them for 2008+ Focus.

Thanks
Paul
here’s a link:

you also need to buy a new clutch slave Cylinder ($14 on RockAuto) and I’d also recommend replacing the master as well ($23 on RockAuto).

also here’s a note from Fswerks regarding the clutch kit’s flywheel:

NOTICE: 2.0L engines (require) new shorter flywheel bolts, 2.3L engines can reuse the factory flywheel bolts but new ones are recommended. SKU: 2S7Z6379AA


And lastly you’ll have to purchase 3 qt of Motorcraft XT-M5-QS trans fluid, also available on FSWERKS. Let me know if you need any other clarifications!
 

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Thanks Paul!



here’s a link:

you also need to buy a new clutch slave Cylinder ($14 on RockAuto) and I’d also recommend replacing the master as well ($23 on RockAuto).

also here’s a note from Fswerks regarding the clutch kit’s flywheel:

NOTICE: 2.0L engines (require) new shorter flywheel bolts, 2.3L engines can reuse the factory flywheel bolts but new ones are recommended. SKU: 2S7Z6379AA


And lastly you’ll have to purchase 3 qt of Motorcraft XT-M5-QS trans fluid, also available on FSWERKS. Let me know if you need any other clarifications!
OK thank you for that info. What is interesting (or strange) is that the Exedy website does not show this clutch/kit. Maybe FSWerks puts this 'kit' together from several individual Exedy components. But wouldnt those components show at their website catalog?

Paul
 

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Works with duratec focuses up to 2011 and the 2.5 swap engines.

Thank you. See my post above to the OP.

Paul
 

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'09 Coupe 2.5L swap
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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
OK thank you for that info. What is interesting (or strange) is that the Exedy website does not show this clutch/kit. Maybe FSWerks puts this 'kit' together from several individual Exedy components. But wouldnt those components show at their website catalog?

Paul
You’d be correct about FSWERKS compiling the kit. I received all the parts in their respective EXEDY boxes, all together in a FSWERKS box. They know their stuff. I think some of the components are custom made for FSWERKS but I could be wrong.
Ben
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
Hey all, little update, working on adding some more custom features/bells and whistles!

I figured out how to activate all the little numbers and icons in the radio screen that are unused from the factory. It's actually really simple, you can use a CAN-BUS interface to send the signals to the radio screen to turn them on, and display custom information.

This is a neat project, and the parts are inexpensive! Just need to learn some more C++ for programming the Arduino. I'm mainly doing this because this summer I'm installing an aftermarket CarPlay head-unit, and I don't want the factory radio screen to say FORD FOCUS all the time. Now, it will display useful information!

(notice anything different?)
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Here are my future plans for this project:
  • Display time and date neatly in the center of the screen instead of "FORD FOCUS" (already achieved!)
  • Implement compass module into Arduino kit, so I can display the compass on-screen like the '10/'11 cars. I already discovered how to display the compass and change its values, so all I need to do is add the module and I'm set! Check it out:
    309305

  • Retain "EXT TEMP" display (CAN-BUS pass-through)
  • Connect Arduino to climate control blower motor switch to sense which fan level, and then display corresponding fan bars on the screen
  • Connect Arduino to temperature blend door actuator position sensor (that's a mouthful) and display "set" climate control temperatures in top corners of the screen (white digits) based on the blend door position. There are 30 total positions, so temperature display will range from 60ºF-90ºF in increments of 1ºF.
  • Connect Arduino to my AEM wideband AFR gauge output, read signal voltage, convert to true AFR and display live-on-screen where the radio/Sirius station would normally go (top left-ish, blue-green digits).
  • Lastly, read engine coolant temperature value from CANBUS network, and display realtime ECT in ºF where the clock would be in the top-right corner of the radio display.

I'm also installing heated seat pads in my cloth seats this week, and hooking them up to the pre-existing (I hope!!) factory harness. They will be activated by the factory heated seat buttons in the new HVAC module I installed last month. However, I'll also install the kit's mode switches out of sight on the sides of the seats, so you can still switch between HI and LO if needed. I anticipate I'll just use LO most of the time, and the on/off factory buttons will do the trick! I'll post an update once I finish this project up too.

Cheers for now!

-Ben
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Heated seats are IN! Factory controls in the HVAC cluster with working lights, which trigger relays I installed under each seat. The relays then send high-current 12V to a pair of aftermarket heated seat kits from Amazon ($47 for all). So you can turn them on/off on the dash with the factory buttons like it came with them! But the advantage to these are that the aftermarket kits come with HI/LO switches, which I installed on the sides of the seats. I just leave that on LO most of the time, unless I need a temperature boost, then I can flick it to HI. They turn off automatically when the engine is off, and can only turn on when the engine is running. Just like factory. Digging it!
 
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Finally finished the mountain of work I had planned for this car, so I figured I'd start an official thread to document everything. I got this car about two and a half years ago and started off by polishing it up and restoring it to mint factory condition. Then I started with some tasteful mods and upgrades, such as an upgraded steering wheel, enabling cruise control and radio buttons, adding a dome light and trunk release button in the interior, etc...

Then I got into the mechanical side of things, and it quickly escalated out of control.

As of right now, I have sucessfully swapped in a 2.5 from a 2014 Fusion with 92xxx mi on it. This replaced my old 2.0 with 158xxx on it. I'm working on getting it tuned, but even driving gently on the stock 2.0 tune it is unbelievably quick compared to how it used to be, and it runs quite well. All work was done in my garage with my novice mechanical skills, and just basic tools: a compressor and impact wrench, a single floor jack and 4 jack stands. I used FocusFanatics and YouTube for supplemental guidance. Only thing I had to have done professionally was the (multiple...arghhh) alignments. Because duh.

I'll post a few pictures here, there will certainly be more to come, as well as some videos potentially. If you guys have any requests (such as exhaust note, flyby vid, walk around, etc) I'll be happy to share media at my nearest convenience!

So without any further ado, I will just go ahead and post the master list of every single thing I've done to this car, and if you guys have any questions or comments, fire away! There is not a single thing on this car I haven't touched, so you can literally ask me ANYTHING you want about it. I will most likely have an answer.

Thanks for the read!

-Ben


------------------------------- 2009 2.5L-SWAPPED FOCUS SE COUPE ---------------------------------

Here's where I started, which was already pretty solid:
View attachment 307843

Before tint and engine swap:
View attachment 307841

Ready-to-drop-in 2.5L sitting pretty on the stand:
View attachment 307842

2.5L under the hood:
View attachment 307844

Before tint:
View attachment 307846

After tint :)
View attachment 307845


This is essentially the ultimate daily driver Focus. All the power you could ever want is on tap, powerful but smooth brakes to stop it all. Tight, yet comfy, and much more neutral/predictable handling thanks to Ford SVT suspension and stiffer Fiesta ST wheels with ultra-low-profile tires. High flow, throaty exhaust, yet still quiet enough on the highway for commuting, and NO rasp whatsoever. Thing hauls ass, both in the hills and on the highway, but is still tame enough to drive friends/significant other around in. The gas mileage actually improved noticeably after the swap too! Anyhow, I get that fluttery feeling every time I so much as think about driving it now, and that's what it's all about.


Quick Specs:
  • 2009 SE Coupe, Vista Blue (code G9) paint, Medium Stone interior.
  • 2.5L from 2014 Fusion, est. 188whp/210ish @crank. Numbers are from a dyne sheet for another Focus with nearly identical specs. Will update if I ever get it dynoed!
  • Engine has stock internals and cams. Full bolt-ons, listed below.
  • Stock 5-speed MTX-75 transmission.
  • Fiesta ST 17x7" wheels wrapped in 205/40R17 Michelin Pilot Sport tires, 15mm hub adapter/spacers (to clear brakes but also for stance, and really makes a difference in handling).
  • Ford SVT suspension/rear sway bar conversion (using Massive's OMNI-KIT).
  • Eagle Eye bi-xenon projector headlights with 5000K 55W HIDs, integrated LED fogs, full LED lighting conversion throughout the vehicle (interior and exterior).
  • 20% tint, 15% visor strip.
FULL Build Log, in very graphic detail:
  • New Steering wheel, Added Cruise Control and enabled SWC
    • Steering wheel upgrade (Black leather/buttons, pulled from junkyard in excellent condition) $19
    • Cruise control enabled at dealer via IDS: $56
    • FORSCAN ELM327 tool (off Amazon, used to enable steering wheel controls for radio): $20
    • New Motorcraft steering wheel buttons (dealer): $98

  • Lighting Upgrades:
    • "Eagle Eyes" EBay Halo Projector Headlights: $268
    • EBay Blacked-out Integrated projector LED Fog Lights: $54
    • 5000K 55W Innovited HID kit from Amazon: $48

  • Exterior Mods/Cosmetic Upgrades
    • DIY front splitter using garage door flashing from Lowe's: $10
    • Black Fiesta ST Wheels with ~75% tires (Craigslist): $440
      • New ACDelco TPMS Sensors - mine died, and needed different style for new wheels anyway: $120
      • TPMS sensor install (local Les Schwab): $32
    • Emblem Overlays + full exterior blackout (black Plasti-dip with Glossifier): $30
    • 20% tints + 15% visor strip (local shop): $275 installed
    • Replaced worn/rattling trunk hinges (junkyard): $29
    • Replaced shot trunk lifts (RockAuto): $15
    • Replaced dinged hood with near-perfect used one (junkyard): $48
    • Horn upgrade from crap single-tone to less-crappy Wolo dual-tone (AutoZone): $40
    • Rek-Gen MK3 Focus Mudflaps (from Amazon, required some finangling): $88

  • Interior Mods/Cosmetic Upgrades:
    • Complete sound-deadening throughout cabin/trunk (using foam duct insulation from Lowe's): $100
    • WeatherTech Floor Mats: $60
    • Head-unit upgrade (work-in-progress): $11 so far
    • New Infinity dual-channel speakers all-around: $180
    • Rockville 12" subwoofer (bought off a friend, installed in trunk): $50
    • Integrated Bluetooth handsfree/streaming kit thru AUX port, hidden under dash (from Amazon): $40ish
    • APEMAN C770 Dashcam - front/rear, 128gb storage (from Amazon): $150
    • Custom rear dome light from MK3 Focus with LED (EBay): $15
    • Reinforced worn door/trunk gaskets for tighter seal and firmer slam (material from Lowe's): $16

  • Performance - Handling/Driver Interface:
    • SVT Suspension Upgrade kit (Jegs): $300
    • Massive OMNI-KIT (to enable '00-'07 struts to fit '08-'11 cars): $88
    • New lower control arms all-around (RockAuto): $120
    • 2x Alignment at local Les Schwab Tire Center: $110 each
    • New front brakes - calipers, rotors and performance pads (RockAuto/Napa): $300ish
    • Steeda Short throw shifter with billet Aluminum knob: $140
    • AlexTheMachinist shift cable/shift base bushings: $83 shipped

  • Performance - Drivetrain:
    • New Exedy OEM-spec Clutch with Hydraulics: $569
    • New Motorcraft CV axles, and new Cardone jack-shaft: $363
    • Tom’s Tune/SCT X4 tune (Focus-Power.com/@1turbofocus): $462
    • Drop-in ProTuningLabs performance panel filter: $27
    • Notched front grille in front of cold air intake scoop for lower intake temps
    • AEM UEGO 30-4110 wideband air/fuel sensor (Amazon): $173
    • New Motorcraft upstream O2 sensor: $60
    • New hubs/bearings/tie rod ends: $288

  • 2.5L Swap:
    • Tools I had to buy/rent (beyond my existing set of sockets, torque wrench, impact gun, etc.... YMMV):
      • Massive cam timing kit for Duratec engines: $30
      • Engine stand (Craigslist): $40
      • Hydraulic engine hoist (Craigslist): $100
      • Engine stand bolts/washers (M10 - 1.5 x 90mm IIRC?): $8
      • Air tools/60gal compressor: borrowed from family member with a shop
    • Re-used from stock 2.0 setup:
      • Oil pan
      • Dipstick
      • Pickup tube
      • Most sensors/electronics
      • ECU
      • Air box with performance filter already installed
      • Valve cover
      • All accessories, e.g. power steering pump, A/C compressor, alternator, etc.
      • Crankshaft pulley
    • Acquired from junkyard/Craigslist:
      • 2.5L Duratec Motor from 2014 Fusion: $275
      • Timing cover from manual 2.3L 2006 Focus ST: $19
      • 70mm electronic throttle body from 2009 Taurus: $51
    • Parts bought online:
      • Massive Balance Shaft Delete Kit: $35
      • Massive VCT Delete kit: $30
      • New Motorcraft crankshaft bolt (single-use/TTY): $15
      • New ACDelco water pump (just do it while the engine's out guys): $35
      • 4x Motorcraft SP411 spark plugs - correct reach, platinum, 1 step colder: $12
      • FSWERKS Stealth exhaust: $480
      • EBay OBX 4-1 stainless steel-alloy header: $349
      • Titanium header wrap with ties (EBay): $18
      • New EGR gasket: $1
      • Replaced my leaking P/S reservoir cap: $9
      • Coolant burp housing gasket: $3
      • New rear main seal/all lower seals (kit): $54
      • New 180º thermostat/housing assembly with gasket: $17
      • New 2.0/2.3 crank position sensor with alignment tool: $15
      • New 2.5L throttle body gasket: $1
      • New Motorcraft FL910S oil filter: $4
      • Intake manifold gasket kit: $6
      • Had a family mechanic friend weld in my AEM wideband bung to the header, wrap the header, and custom-fab an internally-fluted adapter for the 70mm throttle body to fit onto the 2.5L intake manifold: $262
      • Brake fluid (need a ton for full brake flush and clutch bleed procedure): $16
      • Motorcraft New Yellow coolant concentrate - 1 U.S. Gallon: $28
      • 90" Continental 4060900 drive belt - someone on FF said to use a 91" belt and IT IS TOO BIG, it will slip and fits loosely at best. Get the Conti 90" one. You're welcome :)
At the end of it all, I recognize that this was a ton of money and work to put into a $4,000 Ford Focus hooptie. But to me it was worth it regardless. This car is a passion of mine, it was fun doing all the work to it and I'm glad to have had both the experience as well as the opportunity to do this in the first place, both logistically and financially (well, financially, I definitely shouldn't have...but that's how this works ;) ). Now I have a sweet daily driver, and lots of bragging rights. I'm planning to drive it for the next 4+ years, hopefully without issues! I'll also definitely be checking into the local car scene, there are some meets I've been wanting to check out. Thanks for reading, and again hit me up with any feedback!

Peace,

-Ben
Ben, I own exactly the same car, color and all. I love mine too! I've been looking for information about a bolt in swap. Is there step by step instructions to follow? Your parts list is invaluable, but I need instructions to follow. I've done some mods: K&N filter, lowered (shocks, struts, springs) tower braces front and rear. The easy stuff. I would love to swap the engine, but I need directions to follow. Any help you can offer or direction you could point me in would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Hokeypoke
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
Ben, I own exactly the same car, color and all. I love mine too! I've been looking for information about a bolt in swap. Is there step by step instructions to follow? Your parts list is invaluable, but I need instructions to follow. I've done some mods: K&N filter, lowered (shocks, struts, springs) tower braces front and rear. The easy stuff. I would love to swap the engine, but I need directions to follow. Any help you can offer or direction you could point me in would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Hokeypoke
Hey Hokeypoke, thanks for the reply! I’m gonna offer you some really solid advice that I wish someone had before I did my swap...if this is your daily driver, DON’T. It’s been a year and I’m still working on the tune and dialing everything in. if you can stomach that, then by all means, but it is a LOT of blood, sweat, and tears to get right, despite how straightforward and simple the swap seems.

With that disclaimer out of the way, if you don’t daily this car and want to swap it, there are quite a few guides available on FF, which are entirely what I used. I am pretty sure I linked all of the guides I used in my original post. But if you Google the phrase “focusfanatics” and then “2.5 swap”, a LOT will come up. There’s also a master list of torque specs that I am also pretty sure I linked.

Before I did the engine swap, I was a novice mechanic at best. I’d never done anything like it before. However, I also had done more than a year of research on these forums, as well as FocalJet, and some Miata forums to see what others were doing. There was also a sticky in one of the MassiveSpeed forums that was helpful, here’s the link:So you want to swap a 2.5 Duratec I4 in, Eh? 2.5 Recipes and secrets

Anyhow, if you’re serious about it, but also haven’t done something like this before, plan to decommission your car for a LONG time, and expect it to never again be as perfect as it was before you messed with it! Do enough studying that you’re able to stand in the shower and mentally rehearse the entire process, down to the torque spec on each nut and bolt. That was the point I got myself to before I was ready to pull the trigger. Got it done in 28 days, under 100hours of actual work. But that doesn’t include the thousands of hours of R&D beforehand, or the hundreds of hours spent fine-tuning afterwards. Or the thousands of $$$ spent on alignments, replacement parts that I got wrong or were defective, fluid refills, etc. etc....

Moral of the story is: it’s a whole friggin’ can of worms you’re about to open, my friend. If I were to do it over, I would’ve either just bought the FSWERKS turbo kit and been done with it, or just saved my $7,000 that I ended up spending on this and just traded for a WRX. But if you’re still serious about it, go ahead!! I just want to warn you ahead of time that it’s not all rainbows. It’s a lot more of a pain than it seems, for what you get afterwards :)
 

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I second that. It's a simple yet daunting swap to do. Easy in the sense that nearly everything swaps over but once you start digging in, it can seem overwhelming. I would recommend buying a Haynes or Chilton manual for your car for most of the information, like torque specs. Some of the specs are different with the 2.5 engine, but close enough to not make much of a difference. I did my swap for about $3000, give or take, but I also added cams, replaced lots of seals, added gauges, new fluids everywhere, head gasket and head bolts. There's also a lot of information that you can't find in the forums and I recommend just asking questions.

Tuning is what took the longest. Yes, you can drive the car on the factory tune, but you can't drive it safely with it. With that being said, you need to buy an sct programmer from someone who is willing to tune it.

I put about 5,000 miles on my 2.5 then decided to buy an fswerks turbo kit and build the engine in the process. When I tore apart the engine I discovered it was hydrolocked at one point and had a bent rod. These are some things you should keep in mine when buying a junkyard engine. The engine might be dirt cheap but you don't know what's going on with it until you open it up and look which will end up costing more money. Plan ahead and anticipate that it could be more expensive than you though. But if you truly enjoy the car, it's a really good feeling when you put new life back into it and it's better than it was prior to the swap.
 

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What a great project! Are you documenting your code work for reprogramming the display? Others may be interested.
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
What a great project! Are you documenting your code work for reprogramming the display? Others may be interested.
I do have it saved, but I basically ended up writing my own custom program to get it to do what I wanted it to do. I have a different program that I send to the Arduino to set the time and date on the RTC module, then I flash it back to the normal operating program where it reads from the RTC and translates to the 3F2 CAN line and sends it to the display.


That link will take you to the thread I wrote for this project specifically, and in it I include all of the links I used to get started with this project.


This kind of thing unfortunately won't be something where you can just buy the components and plug it in and have it work. One of the links will take you to a GitHub page by user "p1ne", where he describes the operation principles of the FDIM and how you can control it over CAN-BUS. There's another link for a blog on Medium.com that will describe exactly how to set your Arduino up to read CAN-BUS messages, and you'll have to go and teach yourself Arduino and some basic C++ to be able to put it all together. It's really simple and anyone can do it if they set their mind to it! Don't let yourself be swayed, but be forewarned that it is a bit of work. Took me about a month from when I found out about all this/taught myself CAN/learned C++/bought the parts and started coding, to where I had it working.

My motivation was mainly to prove to myself that this kind of stuff can be done. This project was really complicated but the result is extremely subtle. To me it is more the proof of concept that matters. But what that means is I can program the display to show more useful information when I eventually replace the factory radio, and I can take control over parts of the car that would otherwise go unused. Now I know it can be done, and that's what matters the most!
 
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