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Daily Driver: 2.5-swapped '09 SE Coupe
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Finally finished the mountain of work I had planned for this car, so I figured I'd start an official thread to document everything. I got this car about two and a half years ago and started off by polishing it up and restoring it to mint factory condition. Then I started with some tasteful mods and upgrades, such as an upgraded steering wheel, enabling cruise control and radio buttons, adding a dome light and trunk release button in the interior, etc...

Then I got into the mechanical side of things, and it quickly escalated out of control.

As of right now, I have sucessfully swapped in a 2.5 from a 2014 Fusion with 92xxx mi on it. This replaced my old 2.0 with 158xxx on it. I'm working on getting it tuned, but even driving gently on the stock 2.0 tune it is unbelievably quick compared to how it used to be, and it runs quite well. All work was done in my garage with my novice mechanical skills, and just basic tools: a compressor and impact wrench, a single floor jack and 4 jack stands. I used FocusFanatics and YouTube for supplemental guidance. Only thing I had to have done professionally was the (multiple...arghhh) alignments. Because duh.

I'll post a few pictures here, there will certainly be more to come, as well as some videos potentially. If you guys have any requests (such as exhaust note, flyby vid, walk around, etc) I'll be happy to share media at my nearest convenience!

So without any further ado, I will just go ahead and post the master list of every single thing I've done to this car, and if you guys have any questions or comments, fire away! There is not a single thing on this car I haven't touched, so you can literally ask me ANYTHING you want about it. I will most likely have an answer.

Thanks for the read!

-Ben


------------------------------- 2009 2.5L-SWAPPED FOCUS SE COUPE ---------------------------------

Here's where I started, which was already pretty solid:
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Before tint and engine swap:
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Ready-to-drop-in 2.5L sitting pretty on the stand:
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2.5L under the hood:
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Before tint:
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After tint :)
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This is essentially the ultimate daily driver Focus. All the power you could ever want is on tap, powerful but smooth brakes to stop it all. Tight, yet comfy, and much more neutral/predictable handling thanks to Ford SVT suspension and stiffer Fiesta ST wheels with ultra-low-profile tires. High flow, throaty exhaust, yet still quiet enough on the highway for commuting, and NO rasp whatsoever. Thing hauls ass, both in the hills and on the highway, but is still tame enough to drive friends/significant other around in. The gas mileage actually improved noticeably after the swap too! Anyhow, I get that fluttery feeling every time I so much as think about driving it now, and that's what it's all about.


Quick Specs:
  • 2009 SE Coupe, Vista Blue (code G9) paint, Medium Stone interior.
  • 2.5L from 2014 Fusion, est. 188whp/210ish @crank. Numbers are from a dyne sheet for another Focus with nearly identical specs. Will update if I ever get it dynoed!
  • Engine has stock internals and cams. Full bolt-ons, listed below.
  • Stock 5-speed MTX-75 transmission.
  • Fiesta ST 17x7" wheels wrapped in 205/40R17 Michelin Pilot Sport tires, 15mm hub adapter/spacers (to clear brakes but also for stance, and really makes a difference in handling).
  • Ford SVT suspension/rear sway bar conversion (using Massive's OMNI-KIT).
  • Eagle Eye bi-xenon projector headlights with 5000K 55W HIDs, integrated LED fogs, full LED lighting conversion throughout the vehicle (interior and exterior).
  • 20% tint, 15% visor strip.
FULL Build Log, in very graphic detail:
  • New Steering wheel, Added Cruise Control and enabled SWC
    • Steering wheel upgrade (Black leather/buttons, pulled from junkyard in excellent condition) $19
    • Cruise control enabled at dealer via IDS: $56
    • FORSCAN ELM327 tool (off Amazon, used to enable steering wheel controls for radio): $20
    • New Motorcraft steering wheel buttons (dealer): $98

  • Lighting Upgrades:
    • "Eagle Eyes" EBay Halo Projector Headlights: $268
    • EBay Blacked-out Integrated projector LED Fog Lights: $54
    • 5000K 55W Innovited HID kit from Amazon: $48

  • Exterior Mods/Cosmetic Upgrades
    • DIY front splitter using garage door flashing from Lowe's: $10
    • Black Fiesta ST Wheels with ~75% tires (Craigslist): $440
      • New ACDelco TPMS Sensors - mine died, and needed different style for new wheels anyway: $120
      • TPMS sensor install (local Les Schwab): $32
    • Emblem Overlays + full exterior blackout (black Plasti-dip with Glossifier): $30
    • 20% tints + 15% visor strip (local shop): $275 installed
    • Replaced worn/rattling trunk hinges (junkyard): $29
    • Replaced shot trunk lifts (RockAuto): $15
    • Replaced dinged hood with near-perfect used one (junkyard): $48
    • Horn upgrade from crap single-tone to less-crappy Wolo dual-tone (AutoZone): $40
    • Rek-Gen MK3 Focus Mudflaps (from Amazon, required some finangling): $88

  • Interior Mods/Cosmetic Upgrades:
    • Complete sound-deadening throughout cabin/trunk (using foam duct insulation from Lowe's): $100
    • WeatherTech Floor Mats: $60
    • Head-unit upgrade (work-in-progress): $11 so far
    • New Infinity dual-channel speakers all-around: $180
    • Rockville 12" subwoofer (bought off a friend, installed in trunk): $50
    • Integrated Bluetooth handsfree/streaming kit thru AUX port, hidden under dash (from Amazon): $40ish
    • APEMAN C770 Dashcam - front/rear, 128gb storage (from Amazon): $150
    • Custom rear dome light from MK3 Focus with LED (EBay): $15
    • Reinforced worn door/trunk gaskets for tighter seal and firmer slam (material from Lowe's): $16

  • Performance - Handling/Driver Interface:
    • SVT Suspension Upgrade kit (Jegs): $300
    • Massive OMNI-KIT (to enable '00-'07 struts to fit '08-'11 cars): $88
    • New lower control arms all-around (RockAuto): $120
    • 2x Alignment at local Les Schwab Tire Center: $110 each
    • New front brakes - calipers, rotors and performance pads (RockAuto/Napa): $300ish
    • Steeda Short throw shifter with billet Aluminum knob: $140
    • AlexTheMachinist shift cable/shift base bushings: $83 shipped

  • Performance - Drivetrain:
    • New Exedy OEM-spec Clutch with Hydraulics: $569
    • New Motorcraft CV axles, and new Cardone jack-shaft: $363
    • Tom’s Tune/SCT X4 tune (Focus-Power.com/@1turbofocus): $462
    • Drop-in ProTuningLabs performance panel filter: $27
    • Notched front grille in front of cold air intake scoop for lower intake temps
    • AEM UEGO 30-4110 wideband air/fuel sensor (Amazon): $173
    • New Motorcraft upstream O2 sensor: $60
    • New hubs/bearings/tie rod ends: $288

  • 2.5L Swap:
    • Tools I had to buy/rent (beyond my existing set of sockets, torque wrench, impact gun, etc.... YMMV):
      • Massive cam timing kit for Duratec engines: $30
      • Engine stand (Craigslist): $40
      • Hydraulic engine hoist (Craigslist): $100
      • Engine stand bolts/washers (M10 - 1.5 x 90mm IIRC?): $8
      • Air tools/60gal compressor: borrowed from family member with a shop
    • Re-used from stock 2.0 setup:
      • Oil pan
      • Dipstick
      • Pickup tube
      • Most sensors/electronics
      • ECU
      • Air box with performance filter already installed
      • Valve cover
      • All accessories, e.g. power steering pump, A/C compressor, alternator, etc.
      • Crankshaft pulley
    • Acquired from junkyard/Craigslist:
      • 2.5L Duratec Motor from 2014 Fusion: $275
      • Timing cover from manual 2.3L 2006 Focus ST: $19
      • 70mm electronic throttle body from 2009 Taurus: $51
    • Parts bought online:
      • Massive Balance Shaft Delete Kit: $35
      • Massive VCT Delete kit: $30
      • New Motorcraft crankshaft bolt (single-use/TTY): $15
      • New ACDelco water pump (just do it while the engine's out guys): $35
      • 4x Motorcraft SP411 spark plugs - correct reach, platinum, 1 step colder: $12
      • FSWERKS Stealth exhaust: $480
      • EBay OBX 4-1 stainless steel-alloy header: $349
      • Titanium header wrap with ties (EBay): $18
      • New EGR gasket: $1
      • Replaced my leaking P/S reservoir cap: $9
      • Coolant burp housing gasket: $3
      • New rear main seal/all lower seals (kit): $54
      • New 180º thermostat/housing assembly with gasket: $17
      • New 2.0/2.3 crank position sensor with alignment tool: $15
      • New 2.5L throttle body gasket: $1
      • New Motorcraft FL910S oil filter: $4
      • Intake manifold gasket kit: $6
      • Had a family mechanic friend weld in my AEM wideband bung to the header, wrap the header, and custom-fab an internally-fluted adapter for the 70mm throttle body to fit onto the 2.5L intake manifold: $262
      • Brake fluid (need a ton for full brake flush and clutch bleed procedure): $16
      • Motorcraft New Yellow coolant concentrate - 1 U.S. Gallon: $28
      • 90" Continental 4060900 drive belt - someone on FF said to use a 91" belt and IT IS TOO BIG, it will slip and fits loosely at best. Get the Conti 90" one. You're welcome :)
At the end of it all, I recognize that this was a ton of money and work to put into a $4,000 Ford Focus hooptie. But to me it was worth it regardless. This car is a passion of mine, it was fun doing all the work to it and I'm glad to have had both the experience as well as the opportunity to do this in the first place, both logistically and financially (well, financially, I definitely shouldn't have...but that's how this works ;) ). Now I have a sweet daily driver, and lots of bragging rights. I'm planning to drive it for the next 4+ years, hopefully without issues! I'll also definitely be checking into the local car scene, there are some meets I've been wanting to check out. Thanks for reading, and again hit me up with any feedback!

Peace,

-Ben
 

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This is the best write up I’ve seen here in a long time! Great job!

The Fiesta wheels are a good choice, but I’d say that because I’m biased....
 

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Daily Driver: 2.5-swapped '09 SE Coupe
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Discussion Starter #6
This is the best write up I’ve seen here in a long time! Great job!

The Fiesta wheels are a good choice, but I’d say that because I’m biased....
Thanks haha. I have been driving with the 15mm hub adapters for a while and am starting to get some bad vibration in the front...I’m gonna try swapping the rear and front adapters to see if that helps but I hope I don’t have to get rid of them as I love the stance :/
If I need to get rid of them I’ll probably get wider offset rims and sell my Rados. Hopefully I won’t haveto though!
 

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Thanks haha. I have been driving with the 15mm hub adapters for a while and am starting to get some bad vibration in the front...I’m gonna try swapping the rear and front adapters to see if that helps but I hope I don’t have to get rid of them as I love the stance :/
If I need to get rid of them I’ll probably get wider offset rims and sell my Rados. Hopefully I won’t haveto though!
I just ditched the front spacers altogether. None that I tried worked without vibration. Now I have 15mm in the rear only, no vibes. I like the way it looks a touch wider in the rear. The wheel well lip did rub, it self clearances to a reasonable level. Severe cornering or huge bump hits it’ll still rub for a second.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I just ditched the front spacers altogether. None that I tried worked without vibration. Now I have 15mm in the rear only, no vibes. I like the way it looks a touch wider in the rear. The wheel well lip did rub, it self clearances to a reasonable level. Severe cornering or huge bump hits it’ll still rub for a second.
Hm I'll have to see about grinding my calipers down so they clear, seems like I'd only need to take off a hair's breadth of metal to make it clear.

Did removing the front spacers affect your handling at all? I noticed with the spacers and upgraded wheels that there's a hell of a lot more turn-in, would hate to lose all the steering feel I have currently.

I've never had any rubbing issues, except one time my front passenger wheel well lost the screw that mates up to the front skid guard at the bottom of the wheel well liner. It only rubbed when I cranked it all the way to the left when I was parking. Jammed the loose skid guard into place again and haven't had issues since.

I'll play around with the spacer setup and let you know what happens!

Ben
 

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Great job!
Did you re-use the MTX-75 that was originally in the vehicle?
Id like to see pics of the old engine/trans removal and new/engine/trans install.

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Great job!
Did you re-use the MTX-75 that was originally in the vehicle?
Id like to see pics of the old engine/trans removal and new/engine/trans install.

Paul
Hey Paul,

Thanks! I did reuse my stock transmission. It has 160,000 on it but the MTX75 as I'm sure you know is bulletproof. I've gone through mine, never cracked it open but I've kept up on the fluids and always used Ford Honey, and I've also refurbished the shift tower and made sure the failure-prone dowel pin is intact. I made the stupid mistake of running the newly-swapped engine before I refilled the trans (I was excited)... thankfully it still had 0.5qt left inside so wasn't completely dry, but I'll never do that again. It had a little gear noise for the first 50ish miles but luckily quieted back down and has always been shifting smooth as silk.

Most people will drop the engine and trans out the bottom and lift the car away, but I had a floor jack and jack stands and a 2-car garage, so I just doubled down and pulled the engine alone, leaving the trans in the car. It was a bitch to get the stock engine out, because the stock flywheel/clutch setup is REALLY bulky. I managed to finagle it free though, after pulling the alternator for more clearance. I just unbolted the stock exhaust manifold and bungeed it out of the way so I could pull the motor. (Sidenote...The A/C and other accessories also just unbolt and bend out of the way, and there's no need to discharge the A/C. Can confirm, it works just as well as before after all said and done. I did have to drain the power steering though.) The new engine dropped in with considerably less effort, because I upgraded to an Exedy OEM clutch kit from FSWERKS with a new lightened flywheel that is considerably less bulky. That allowed the engine to slide right into place. The only hangup was trying to get the trans input shaft splines aligned with the engine crankshaft, but once I did it popped right into place and I was able to bolt down the bell housing easily.

Here's the photos, as requested. Sorry I don't have much on the install, kinda had to grind it out in a day due to time constraints, and was unable to properly document the process :/

Garage setup toward the beginning (with 2.5L stripped down on the stand, awaiting parts at the time):
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Pulling the 2.0:
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Few shots of the void left behind. Notice how I had to bend the EVAP check valve up and out of the way:
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A/C pump sitting down there still, the power steering pump is crammed up where the headlight was:
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As you can see I ratchet strapped the trans for support during the engine removal process, and also supported it with a floor jack from underneath. Had to remove the top mount but left the bottom dogbone one in place:
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Freshened up the bell housing with some WD40 and a rag so as not to create a cloud of clutch dust. Installed new slave and master clutch cylinders. Master was a pain in the ass. Slave took 2 minutes:
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Installed the header/flex before dropping in the 2.5, bungeed it out of the way for now:
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2.5 all buttoned-up and ready to drop:
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Close-up of the Exedy OEM clutch installed on the 2.5L:
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Whoops, reached my file upload limit. Continued in the next post...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Close-up of the engine before I hoisted it off the stand, notice how I had to zip-tie the oil dipstick tube to the side of the 2.5 intake manifold due to the lack of mounting brackets for it:
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Close-up of the custom billet fluted 70mm TB adapter:
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Cut a custom paper gasket for the TB-adapter interface, used a fresh 2.5 TB gasket for the intake mani-adapter interface:
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Close-up of the throttle body installed and torqued down:
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That's pretty much the extent of my photos of the actual process, here's a link to the video of my first startup! Listen with headphones :) Exhaust is an OBX header and FSWERKS Stealth.

Ben
 

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Ben,
Great job, write up, and pics! - thank you! Wow, that 2.5L is CLEAN!
Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Looking good

Esslinger is making a new TB for the 2.5 swap where you dont need an adapter

Tom
I saw, looks sweet but costs a pretty penny! Since the 08-11 is already DBW, I was able to scrounge a 70mm TB off a V6 Taurus that had the correct connector/internals since it’s from the same M.Y. Then I just had a family friend with a local shop fabricate me a billet adapter with internal flute for smooth flow.

Ben
 

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What size was the DBW TB on your original 2.0L and could you have used that or would it not bolt up/too small for 2014 intake?

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #17
What size was the DBW TB on your original 2.0L and could you have used that or would it not bolt up/too small for 2014 intake?

Paul
Stocker was 62mm, would have worked, but has a different bolt pattern and would still have required an adapter plate to be made. Since I had read it would be a potential restriction point, I decided go big or go home because I had to get an adapter made either way. I didn’t choose the 70mm because I expected huge gains or anything, but I know now it isn’t a point of restriction.

Another thing was that my stock TB’s position sensor was kind of screwy, so a nice side effect of upgrading to the 70mm one was that it had a fresher position sensor. Hopefully it solved the problem. Throttle response is extremely touchy due to the size of the TB now but I like it.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Have you run it yet to see if that TB will run and work ?

Tom
Oh yeah I’ve been driving it for a week now, throttle is jumpy but still daily driveable and a whole lot more fun. Running on the tune we left off on from the stock 2.0L, A/F is very rich at WOT so I’m sure we can squeeze more out of her! It’s running fantastically as is.

TB is from a junkyard 2009 Taurus 3.5L V6, it has an analog position sensor just like the stock Focus TB, and I made sure it worked before I bought it by plugging it into my car and verifying that the ECU would talk to it, and it works 100% the same!
 
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