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Old Phart
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Stickie for reference.

Looking back a little, I'd be careful as you mention with final crank pulley torque with locating bolts in place. Tighten enough for location, torque to final then recheck might be better. Breaking tools with any slip could be a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #63
Very Nice and Very close . looking good

Tom
Thanks!

Stickie for reference.

Looking back a little, I'd be careful as you mention with final crank pulley torque with locating bolts in place. Tighten enough for location, torque to final then recheck might be better. Breaking tools with any slip could be a problem.
I did torque it to the final check with the crank pulley position bolt and crank TDC tool but without the cam tool in place. Not sure I would have been able to torque it down without doing that. I did whatever the torque was with an addition 90* turn. I had to pull out my giant break bar and it took everything I had on that to get the final torque.
 

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Old Phart
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Well, there is an official holder tool for the pulley that attaches to a std. bar - or other ways you might hold the crank in place as alternatives.

I just worry about that after old threads on zetec issues where timing pins got bent/broken. Getting a bent/broken one out of a zetec/duratec can be a difficult process. Small timing bolt to the cover might break before cover, still a smaller PITA there if it happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #65
I will admit it was risky. I was definitely keeping a close eye on everything to see if it sheering or bending. I figured if the crank pulley didn't move then it was ok. If it started to get out of place, then there would be issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #67
You did a bsd, Vince?
Yes! I didn't take pictures of that part, essentially the same process as any other 2.3 duratec. The oil pan is different though and doesn't have the markings on where to place the new sealant like the 2.3 pan. Just gotta follow a path and hope for the best. I haven't resealed it yet. Going to do that once it is in the car. Just want to do one last check in the car before sealing it all up. Paranoia at its best [scream]

Got the slave cylinder in today. Piece of cake. 3 bolts and clip. put a small amount of wheel bearing grease on the inside of the slave bore just in case. Don't think it should effect anything but probably won't hurt. I'm hoping tomorrow morning I can get the engine back in place. Its ready. [giddy] Forgot I picked up a work shift Saturday morning so I won't be able to do it then.
 

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w/ my magic bag
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I'd flip the motor over & install the pan= easier then in the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
Well good news! The engine is in! Took a little wiggling but it finally fell into place. no accessories hooked up so can't test it yet. Just got all the holes covered in masking tape to keep dirt and dust out. Though when lower the car with the engine still in it landed on the crank pulley and I am a little worried it will cause a stress fracture that will end up junking the motor. I certainly hope not, since i"m not going to take it back out to check. I am also a little worried that I didn't clean the diamond coated washer that sits between the crank pulley and drive gear. Might pull it off and do a cleaning. Thoughts? I know I'll need a new bolt. I already have a spare thanks to my forgetfulness.
 

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w/ my magic bag
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Not the much room w/ the trans in,,,,,maybe could of not installed the crank pulley till the motor was in the chassis, oh well its in,,,,,,,,great!
 

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Discussion Starter #73
Ya, and now with another motor out of the car all the parts to do it. I'll just hold onto it till i feel safe. Thanks for the vote of confidence! [thumb]. I'm excited now. Hard parts over. Now just need to reattach all the misc. stuff [hihi]. Good thing I bagged and labeled all the bolts!!
 

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Discussion Starter #76
Alright well. Everything is in. Filled with fluids. I go to start the car, put the key in, turn it on and get full power (battery at 12.24 volts) go to crank and nothing. Tried to see if it was the clutch pedal switch, Manually held it down and no crank with there either. Didn't have much time left before I needed to call it quits so i packed everything up and left. Now here is my plan for tomorrow for trouble shooting

  • Check starter voltage
  • Check fuses (any recommendations on where to start? obviously the starter but anything else?
Would the oil pressure sensor cause a no crank? I didn't swap that one over from my old engine and I am using the fusion one (same pigtail)

Would the crank pos. sensor out of place cause this issue?

I can turn the engine over by hand easily so I don't think there is any damage internally.

Any other thoughts or suggestions?
 

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Discussion Starter #77
I should also mention that PATS is working correctly. No ------ in the cluster. It shows my miles. And the only code it has is P1000 (go figure)
 

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w/ my magic bag
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I doubt its the oil pressure sensor or the crank sensor,,,,thinking it needs to at least crank over. Ground cables/wires? IK you only messed w/ the engine wiring, Does the pats work? You try the other key?
 

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Discussion Starter #79
I doubt its the oil pressure sensor or the crank sensor,,,,thinking it needs to at least crank over. Ground cables/wires? IK you only messed w/ the engine wiring, Does the pats work? You try the other key?
Pats is good. Didn't try the other key (need to find it but I will do that). I didn't Thats my thinking with the oil pressure and crank sensors. I'll take a look at grounds tomorrow as well.
 

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w/ my magic bag
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Pats is good. Didn't try the other key (need to find it but I will do that). I didn't Thats my thinking with the oil pressure and crank sensors. I'll take a look at grounds tomorrow as well.
Fresh rested mind helps,,,,,,,[thumb]
 
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