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Discussion Starter #42
small update. Mostly waiting on parts to come in now.
Still waiting for:
  • intake cam/gear 38 tooth
  • Front seal
  • flywheel bolts
  • misc crap that I can't remember but mostly maintenace stuff that needs replacements, belts, pulleys, etc.
I cleaned up the 2.3 timing cover I got, and I think I decided I'm going to run the fusion oil pan and valve cover. Thanks to the Escape forums (looks like everyone is doing this swap!), I saw how it was possible to keep the VCT as a plug in the valve cover while looking relatively clean so that's the cheap and easy way for me! Bonus is i keep the oil pan, oil pickup tube, and just run the BSD. Things are shaping up just stalled now cause of parts.
 

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w/ my magic bag
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Great 411, Vince. Is there any advantage of running the 25 dipsick or the 23 dipsick? I assume the differences are the oil pan, cam cover & dipstick? If your going to use a 23 head, I get using the 23 front cover. Whats the story w/ the 23/25 front covers? How much taller is the deck height is the 25, to affect installing a fwerks header or is that just a case of using a long flex? or?
 

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Discussion Starter #44 (Edited)
No real advantage to either dipstick. Tho I won't have to screw the dipstick back to the manifold like it is in the 2.3. So thats a plus. (I remember it being a PIT-A to get on and off with those torx bolts pressed up against the radiator). I also like that the oil fill is closer to the front on the 2.5 valve cover Im using. Only reason to swap oil pans is to allow the use of the 2.3 dipstick, since the 2.5 doesn't have a provision for that. And since you have a different oil pan with the 2.3 you'll want the oil pickup tube to go with it. I still need to peak under my car one more time just to make sure the oil pan is going work but I think it will.

You HAVE to use the 2.3 front cover. Deck height is the same between the 2.3 and 2.5. the major difference is the mounting of the passenger side motor mount. On the fusion 2.5 cover the mount is rotated clockwise slightly and has 3 studs vs the 2.3 timing covers 2 studs. There is also a small difference with an oil passage that the 2.5 cover allows for but is blocked by the 2.3 cover. Lots of mazda guys are just blocking it and are not having trouble. Also the crank pulley is a larger on the fusion and the smaller focus 2.3 pulley doesn't fit on the 2.5 cover. I'll get pictures later and post the difference between the covers.

Everything should fit up back to factory look if you use the 2.3 head. Including that header. If you use the 2.3 head, you'll want the oil pan, oil pick-up, and valve cover since you'll want to be able to check your oil now and then. There is also an oil passage (can't remember if it is on the 2.5 block or 2.3 head) that needs to be tapped and plugged when running the 2.3 head.

If anyone comes out with an adapter for fusion->focus cable TB, (if you are drive-by-wire you can use the fusion throttle body and intake manifold no problem) i'll look into switching to the Mazda 3 2.5 intake manifold since it also has the dual runners. If down the line nothing appears I'll look into porting a cossie knockoff and run home made gasket.
 

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w/ my magic bag
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Great 411, Vince. Happen to know if the Fusion 23's used the in head dipstick's?
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Yes I believe the fusion 23 and 25 both have the dipstick in the head, while the escape 23's did not and were like the focus. The ranger head as we know is the same as the 2.0. The 23 head on the fusion has VCT so that is useless unless you want to go with the VCT delete. The 2.3 head from the escape remains a mystery to me but it looks the same as the 23 focus head WRT sensors and height.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Was doing some reading last night and was wondering if I need to replace the Camshaft bolt and washer? I also ended up on some MZR forums stating that there was a diamond coated washer on the camshaft. Well the used Intake cam I got had the gear on it and when I took it off there was no diamond coated washer. So I'm wondering if there is even a diamond coated washer there that i need put in?

There are also 2 diamond coated washers on the crank that nobody seems to have said you need to replace but all the readings/manuals I find say to replace them if the crank bolt is removed. Crank Bolt-->Crank Pulley->Diamond Washer->Timing/oil pump gear->Diamond Washer->Crank
 

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br/o/stang
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The only bolts I would replace are ones that are supposed to stretch as you tighten them (aka torque to yield). Otherwise I've always reused them as long as they look OK
 

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Old Phart
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Don't think any of the Ford engines use those washers on the cams. Seen them mentioned avail. from Cosworth and maybe used on some MZR engines. Optional where not originally used.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
The only bolts I would replace are ones that are supposed to stretch as you tighten them (aka torque to yield). Otherwise I've always reused them as long as they look OK
Ya just wasn't sure if the cam bolt was TTY.

Don't think any of the Ford engines use those washers on the cams. Seen them mentioned avail. from Cosworth and maybe used on some MZR engines. Optional where not originally used.
Awesome, that is exactly what I wanted to hear! I couldn't find any in the part diagrams either so I was just really confused.

Got the timing set today and spent alot of time cleaning the damn silicone off the timing cover/block but I still need to go get some plastic razor blades to finish cleaning the silicone off the engine block. Then she gets bolted back together.
 

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w/ my magic bag
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I thought about those washers & passed, if the oem doesn't use them & its not a Formula Atlantic motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Update Time!
Got the timing all set, front cover on and pulley torque (74ft-lbs + 90*) Now lets walk through this for anyone curious as to what to do.

Torque Values:
Cam Cap Bolts: 11ft-lb
Crank Pulley: 74ft-lb + 90*
Timing Tensioner: 89in-lb <------THIS IS INCH POUNDS NOT FOOT LBS
Front Cover:
8mm: 10ft-lb
13mm: 34ft-lb
Cam Gear: 53 ft-lb

Valve Tappet Gap:
Intake: .008-.011"
Exhaust: .010-.013"

Pre-step:
Throughout the entire time I had the cover off, the engine never left TDC. Keep it that way.

Step 1:
Place your intake cam into position and torque down the bolts in the order provided you should have made sure the caps went on the same direction and spot as they came off. Notice how mine are labeled.. Get both cams so the alignment bar fits in between them and then while holding the cam torque the cam gear into place. I did NOT use the diamond coated washers found on some MZR/duratec engines since there wasn't one there to begin with I'll assume that I don't need one. (I think I did this at the wrong time and it should be done right after the crank pulley bolt gets put on but I had no issues getting the timing right so up to you)



step 2:
Slip the chain around the cam gears and the crank gear. Then bolt/slip the chain guides into place. If you were like me, you removed the chain tensioner. Push it back the spring in while holding the teeth up. You'll know what I mean once you are there. I'm not sure removing the tensioner was required but I did it. Put the tensioner in and torque the bolts.



step 3:
Clean the mating surfaces of the timing cover and replace the timing cover front seal and block/head. Apply a thin 1/4" bead of sealant all the way around. You need to do this part quickly. Attach the front cover and torque the bolts in the order shown below. The 8mm and 13mm bolts have different torque values. I let this sit for 20-30 minutes before installing the crank pulley. You'll notice my bead is a little thin at the bottom but thats ok since I'll be pulling the pan off anyhow and that is where it is mated to.






step 4:
add a little oil to the edge of the front seal and then slip the crank pulley into position. You'll want to line up the bolt hole on the bottom and slip in a 6mm bolt (same size of the timing cover so you can use one of those once it dries if you don't have any).



Step 5:
Torque the crankshaft bolt to the engine. When I did this, I took out the timing bar in the cams after having it finger tight then I torque it with the crank pulley locator bolt and Timing Pin in so it wouldn't leave TDC while I did this. Seemed to work fine. Had to pull out the big breaker bar to get the final 90* turn on the bolt.




Step 6:
Now that your bolt is torque now is the time to check to make sure it is timed. Remove the crank TDC bolt and the 6mm bolt from the Crank pulley. Spin the engine clockwise a few revolutions to make sure nothing is hitting. Then while you are doing this measure the valve tappet gap when each lobe is pointing to the center like lobe 1 would be at TDC. You need to measure the intake side since the cam changed. Mine were go and I had not issues. I measured the exhaust side for peace of mind as well. To no surprise they were perfect. Now spin the crank one last time around and get it back to TDC. Insert the timing pin and turn the crank to rest against it. Now insert the cam timing bar and 6mm pulley locator bolt into the crank pulley. If you can't do this you F'd the timing [facepalm] and need to redo it. (need a new crank pulley bolt as well)








Step 7:
Attach the Crank Position Sensor, you definelty need a new one here as it comes with the alignment tool and the fusion part is not the same. If you bought you crank pulley new or even if its used there should (might if used) be a white mark that you'll use the CKPS alignment tool. The white mark goes in between the alignment tools teeth. Torque down the CKPS and remove the alignment tool.




That's as far as I got today. Everything back together basically with spark plugs in [headbang]. Still need to pull the pan and do the BSD delete. I've fully decided on using the 2.3 valve cover, dipstick, and oil pan. Mostly because I ordered all the gaskets and stuff for them and got the parts cheap. I also still need a VCT delete since I couldn't get a hold of the blocker on the other side. Ordered today. Probably going to try and start the pulling of the old engine this weekend if time permits.


Thinking about just leaving the trans in the car while I do this. Any thoughts on that?
 

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Old Phart
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I'm quite sure that it's not physically possible to pull the engine with the trans in place if you have a manual. Maybe barely possible with an automatic.

Just not room for the sideways shift needed to split the pieces, and once you unbolt the trans from the mount for more room you're dealing with a second loose major part to juggle.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Thats a damn shame. guess that just means a little bit of extra wrenching for me! [wrenchin] Not a big deal tho thanks for the tip!
 

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Old Phart
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Yeah, judge for yourself - I've seen engines pulled by themselves but it seemed more difficult than pulling the unit.
 

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Out the top nope, drop out the bottom yea. Great write up & pix, Vince. See you used a plastic blade, so not to nic up the surfaces. Awesome job.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
So driving my car to my moms (she has a garage I can use) I found out that a squirrel had been chewing on one of my transmission wiring harness. He seemed to have found a leak in Completely removed the oil pressure sensor wire from it and disabled my speedo. Not even being kind enough to leave a pigtail for me to fix. Luckily not anything else that made the car undriveable. I am now on the hunt for the little punk [hatchet][:(!]

Other than that, The engine will be ready to drop today and hopefully will be out of the car before the sun sets. Got most of everything out of the engine bay w.r.t. wiring, intake and exhaust manifolds. Just gotta pull the alt, A/C, starter, and the powersteering. Fairly simple just ran out of light yesterday (i'm a 1 man team doing this for the first time so im fairly slow at everything [wrenchin]) I just cut the belt off when it was in place. That way I didn't have to remove the motor mount to get the belt.

Plan for the engine to be dropped out the bottom with the trans unbolted and sitting in the engine bay (I hope!). I'm not sure I understand why the engine can't be pulled from the top like this. but I'm not going to question the experience of those who have done it over just my initial look over. With how difficult it was to get the exhaust manifold out I think i'm just going to put the header on and cheat the 02. Eventually I'll have a highflow cat welded in the catback. I wanna see how loud it is first.

I also need to do my fuel pump will the car is undergoing the knife. Just scared to dremel a hole in my floor. But I'm also way to lazy to drop the tank so i just gotta suck it up here soon and cut the access panel.

Not many pics that are good to look at but here is how gross the engine looks with the valve cover off. Keep in mind I've done 3 oil changes in the last 10,000 miles (how long i've owned it) + i was burning oil at a stupid rate there at the end.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Well didn't get as far as I wanted. Old engine still sits in the bay. Basically the only thing left tho. Everything has been removed and only the bell housing bolts and engine mount remain to support it. Next day to get on it is saturday. got a couple of friends that are goin help up I need the muscle!

Here is some interesting information that I have found. The 2013 2.5 fusion engine is not compatible with the 2005 2.3 focus. The inlet is to large on the 2.5 engine that the o-ring would have gotten sucked up into the oil passage. The spacing on the bolts was also slightly off so that they would not thread in correctly. You can force it but it wouldn't have been right and probably stripped the bolts. So it looks like i'm going to end up using the 2.5 valve cover and oil pan. Will have to make a plug for the vct hole. I have an idea for that so not to worried.
 

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Discussion Starter #60 (Edited)
Lack of updates but not lack of progress. 2 weekends ago I pulled the motor out. Had a couple of friends come and help me. Dropped right out of the bottom with some finagling. Trans still sits in the engine bay. Yesterday I put the new clutch on the motor. Went smoothly. Today gonna get the slave cylinder in and get ready for the engine reinstall which should happen on Saturday at the latest.

Old engine out:


Big hole in the engine bay:


I also weighed the new clutch vs the old DMF.
DMF/friction disk/pressure plate: 31lbs
Exedy OEM replacement Flywheel/friction disk/pressure plate: 28lbs

Granted that clutch has 134k miles on it but the disk looked to be near perfect still. It is also substaintially shorter than the OEM one so putting it back into the bell housing should be easier than taking it out (every inch counts there!)

Old Clutch:




New clutch Installed:



From my previous posts i found out that I had to use the 2.5 oil pickup tube which then requires me to run the 2.5 oilpan and the 2.5 valve cover. Now the 2.5 valve cover has a giant hole in it for the VCT solenoid and since I needed to delete the solenoid I needed to come up with a way to plug the hole. With some searching around, I found on the Escape forums where someone cut the old VCT solenoid and installed it on top of the VCT delete. Being a "free" option I thought I'd try it out.





Works great! Might try and find a rubber cap to make it look a little cleaner on the outside but for now this will work perfectly!

Now I think once the slave cylinder is done It will be time to put the engine back in. Saturday is the goal to have the engine in by and Sunday up and running. We shall see. Considering how this project has been going it'll probably be another 2 months[popcorn]
 
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