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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
First off, to clear up any confusion, this write-up should not be used for any SVT, Zetec, or SPI. It is only meant to be a guide to help those who already have duratecs in there car. Either the 2.0 or 2.3.

So my 2.3 has developed a terrible knock, its been burning oil for awhile and I've just been driving it till it dies. Well now it can barely accelerate over 3k rpms so I've started looking seriously into new engines. Specifically the fusion 2.5 engine. Here is what I have gathered so far and need to make sure I have everything so this can go as smooth as possible. I will also be replacing the clutch at this point to since it has 134k on the stock clutch. I'm trying to do this as easily and cheaply as possible. I found someone on the fusion forums who makes an adapter plate for the 2.5 head->2.3 intake manifold, So I won't need to switch out the head. I know this isn't ideal as the 2.3 head is better but this will make it easier and cheaper. The engines i'm looking at have ~40k on them so I don't think it would be necessary to change the the water pump or oil pump.

EDIT INSERT: i'll try to keep track of prices as I do this for any future people to go off of. Obviously its going to be different depending on what you need, have, and want but I'm going for a pretty budget build for myself. Keeping the 2.5 head for simplicity of not removing my 2.3 head.

All accessories will remain as 2.3. Ie. Powersteering, alternator, starter.

Useful Threads:
Tools needed:
  • Torque wrench 1/2" and 3/8" drive
  • 1/2", 3/8", 1/4" drivers
  • 4,6,8,10,13,15,18,19,22mm sockets, both deepwell and non deep well.
  • impact gun (used both 1/4" and 3/8" adapters <--- not necessary but damn does it make things easy
  • 8mm allen wrench
  • tubing, funnel
  • Timing pin, Timing bar
  • crank pos. sensor tool (comes with new one)
  • clutch alignment tool (came with excedy oe kit)
  • Hammer
  • Torch
  • breaker bar 1/2"
  • Jack, Jackstands (at least 2)
  • 6 point <---i'll get the size later
  • reverse 6 point <--- I'll get the size later
  • syringe and tubing
  • friends
  • pliers: all types
  • magnet for when you drop the bolts and pieces
  • flashlight
Parts I know I need/have and prices:
  • 2.5 engine......................................................490$, 6k miles
  • Exedy Flywheel...............................................230$, new
  • Exedy OEM clutch w/ slave...............................150$ new
  • VCT delete kit.................................................33$ new
  • Timing Cover from 2.3......................................56$ used
  • 2.5->2.3 intake manifold adapter plate................95$, new
  • Serp Belt (got oem 2.3 length we'll see..)............30$ new
  • Wideband for Tune...........................................0$, already have
  • Grommet for wideband cord...............................1$
  • D25 Oil Pan.....................................................0$, will use off current D25
  • 2.3 camshaft...................................................70$, new
  • 2.5 camshaft gear............................................20$
  • D25 timing chain..............................................0$, will use off current D25
  • D25 Valve cover...............................................0$, will use off current D25
  • D25 Oil Pickup tube..........................................0$, will use off current D25
  • 2.3 crank pulley...............................................83$, new
  • 2.3 water block inlet.........................................0$ will use off current 2.3
  • 2.3 inlet block gasket........................................6$
  • 2.3 crank pos sensor.........................................24$
  • 2.3 Oil pressure sensor......................................0$, will use off current 2.3
  • 2.3 Cylinder Temp Sensor..................................0$, used old 2.3
  • D25 oil dipstick................................................0$, will use off current D25
  • waterpump gasket............................................4$
  • EGR Gasket......................................................8$, new
  • Throttle Body Gasket.........................................10$
Fluids
  • Oil 0w-20, 3 gallons..........................................36$
  • Coolant 1 gallons + 1 gallon water mix.................15$
  • Break fluid........................................................6$
  • Powersteering fluid............................................6$


Additional Parts I don't NEED but am getting/have anyways:
  • BSD delete.......................................................30$, new
  • 180* thermostat...............................................0$, will use off current 2.3 (<300 miles on that one)
TOTAL COST ~1400 All labor done by me. Not to bad considering that this includes a new clutch and last time i had a shop do the clutch in my zetec focus it cost ~800$. I already had all of the tools required for this to.

Parts to sell
  • intake manifold..................................................
  • throttle body......................................................
  • EGR sensor........................................................
  • Timing cover......................................................
  • EGR delete........................................................SOLD 15$
  • 2.3 engine.........................................................
So for those of you that have done this swap, Is there anything in the the "parts I may need" that is an absolute must for this swap or anything that I am just completely missing? I know there are sensors that should be swapped but I'm not sure which ones. Any tips that you guys have for engine removal would be great to. For example, would it be easier too leave the trans in the car or take it out as 1 whole unit.

I MAY have access to a lift but that is not guaranteed. I will try and document a writeup as I do this since I couldn't find a good one online yet even tho many have promised!!
--EDIT: didn't use the lift all was done on jackstands, trans stayed in the car though if I were to do it again I'd remove the trans with the engine.--

For the clutch I was looking at the Excedy OEM replacement. This should work fine correct? correct. Since i ordered one [grin]
--EDIT: clutch is working great so far, remember to reverse bleed the clutch, it takes <3minutes and is 10000x easier than pumping the pedal--

Is there any special tools I'll need besides the timing bar and pin?
--EDIT: the crank position sensor came with a tool that is needed, I didn't use any other special tools.--
 

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8 DAY HOMECOMING
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Probably not relevant Vincent...but I have the exedy clutch in my zetec and it works great. Been about 6000 miles now with no issues.

Consider me subscribed.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
How sure are you on that? I figure the chain and gear is required. But can I just keep the oil pan and valve cover? With the vct sensor unplugged? This would allow me to use the dipstick through the valve cover as well. Anything else I am missing? It's a pretty short list.
 

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w/ my magic bag
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I'd swap the head, it'd cost a head gasket + a little bit of time, It'd make it easier. Since your there, I'd also add a set of cams too.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Cams are out of budget unfortunately. Would love to run some just can't justify the cost. Ya, I agree, ideally a head swap would be great but I think its going to run me a bit more if I do that. Trying to keep costs down as much as possible for this swap. Really I would like to just use all the parts from my current engine but I need to keep my car running as long as possible since it is my DD, so i can't really pick it apart while i get the 2.5 ready.

FocusZX505: do you know what size serp belt I will need? I thought I read somewhere that a slightly longer one is necessary. Just don't remember finding a definitive answer.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Another question. Any difference that I need to be aware of between the 10-12 fusion engine and 13+ fusion engine?
 

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If your this far in the swap did u have any problem with the axles lining up I can get the one that bolts to the back of the motor to line up what and I missing here
Another question. Any difference that I need to be aware of between the 10-12 fusion engine and 13+ fusion engine?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Axles? I plan to reuse my mtx-75's. I'll be replacing the flywheel, clutch, slave, and throw-out bearing when I pull the trans off. Then mating The 2.5 engine with the new flywheel to the the mtx-75. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I think that is how others have done it.
 

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Yea that was my plan too but idk If I need a different mount plate or not I'm
trying to use the 2.0 axle mount and it's not lining to the 2.5 block holes so and trying to use the 2.0 axle idk if that's my problem or not
Axles? I plan to reuse my mtx-75's. I'll be replacing the flywheel, clutch, slave, and throw-out bearing when I pull the trans off. Then mating The 2.5 engine with the new flywheel to the the mtx-75. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I think that is how others have done it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I don't know what mount you are referring to. The carrier bearing on the passenger side? or the lower trans mount?
 

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Yes the one the mounts to the block to axle the hold the bearing I'm trying to use a 2.0 mount plate but not lining up is that my problem or not
 

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Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I always thought the 2.5 head was better, bigger intake ports is what i've heard. People switch to the 2.3 head so they don't have to delete the vct on the 2.5.
 

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Yep,

2.3 head already flows all you can use and there are multiple parts avail. for it as well as no VCT to deal with.

The huge 2.5 ports look good, but the package isn't as developed.

When someone went nutz on the 2.3 for better head flow it didn't add HP because it wasn't a limiting factor for the engine.
 

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Yep,

2.3 head already flows all you can use and there are multiple parts avail. for it as well as no VCT to deal with.

The huge 2.5 ports look good, but the package isn't as developed.

When someone went nutz on the 2.3 for better head flow it didn't add HP because it wasn't a limiting factor for the engine.
Limiting factor is the oem cams^^^^^^^^
 

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Ok has anyone made it to where there putting the axles back into the car and see if it worked or needed something else yet
Yep,

2.3 head already flows all you can use and there are multiple parts avail. for it as well as no VCT to deal with.

The huge 2.5 ports look good, but the package isn't as developed.

When someone went nutz on the 2.3 for better head flow it didn't add HP because it wasn't a limiting factor for the engine.
Limiting factor is the oem cams^^^^^^^^
 

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Why would the axles be different? The few who have done this haven't mentioned anything about that.
 

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w/ my magic bag
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I don't know what mount you are referring to. The carrier bearing on the passenger side? or the lower trans mount?
Yes the one the mounts to the block to axle the hold the bearing I'm trying to use a 2.0 mount plate but not lining up is that my problem or not
I'd think that the carrier bearing bracket would bolt right up to the block, using the oem style axle.
 

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So I'm still stuck on finding a bracket to work with this for the axle to the block as any one made it to this yet on ur builds really starting to frustrate me after coming this far and not being able to do anything with it yet
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Did you use the 2.3 timing cover or keep the stock 2.5? Also the lower torque mount attaches to the transmission. The only mount that attaches to the block is the PSM. It sounds like you didn't change over the timing cover. Since I believe the one guy who did it with the 2.5 timing cover used spacers there.
 
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