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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,
I'm wanting to put a 2.3 Duratec in to my dune/woods buddy.
I have been trying to see if I can use the stock wiring, ECU and engine from a bone yard car and make this swap at a reasonable cost.
I really dont want to do a Ecotec or a Subaru swap that seems to be usual choice.
Also the stand alone ECU/Wiring harness is out of the budjet.
I can get a adaptor kit and clutch for the transaxle from KEP.
I know I will need the alt., rad. ect.
I seen some mention about swapping engines (2.0 to 2.3) from manual, auto trans to the same manual, auto cars. There are no wires on the VW transaxle besides the back up switch.
What will I need to get it to run?
I have tried to get answers other places with out much luck. I e-mail enginewiring.com and no reply. (I guess they dont support Fords)
Anyway, thanks for any info that you might have.[8D]
Norm
 

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Fins Up!
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any thing can be done. if i were you i would use a 2.0zetec. they are cheaper to buy and to build. and if you get a svt engine they can handle 350whp stock.

as for stock harness and ecu and engine sure.. no reason why you cant. just remember that they have a pats system which will prevent the car car from starting with out the correct key.
 

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if you can get a 2.3L duratec to fit, then just save up a little coin and get a Mazdaspeed turbo DISI motor and wiring harness.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the response.
Focusboy5,
I have seen the project that Focusbaja has been working on. I wonder if it’s running yet. Its looks like he is using the stock ECU and SCT to tune it. If that works I would like to do mine the same way. The part that I’m not sure about is what he kept and removed from the wiring harness (page 4).

Turbo Turtle,
I like both the Zetec and the Duratec.
Right now my buggy weights about 1500 lbs and a stock 1600 with a carbs and a header (about 50 hp). I’m hopping to stay under 1800 lbs with a 150 -200 hp modern engine.
I know I could build a VW with that much hp but that requires a lot of money and it also requires and maintenance to keep it running at its peak.
I think with a Duratec I can beat on it all weekend long and still drive it to work the next week without doing much besides checking the oil.
I have a stock 3 rib transaxle now it’s good for about 150 hp. I have been looking for a 6 rib trans, they are good for about 200 hp stock. If I decide to up the hp I will have to get it beefed up.

I have access to a junk yard (Dad owns one). I been looking around and have seen a few 2.0 duratec engine there. I only seen one 2.3 and it had the head off (it was in the trunk). So if I do hurt the engine I should be able to get a replacement cheep. This is a family toy and a budget buggy so I have to keep the cost low on performance parts.
I have also seen a few Ecotec engine. I know I can get an Ecotec wiring harness reworked at enginewring.com for about $250 and have just 3 wires to hook up. But I’m never been a GM fan. But it may be the cheapest way to run.

I would like to know how Focusbaja wired his baja and is it running.
Has anybody used a SCT to turn off the pats?
Sorry for the long story.
Norm
 

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Discussion Starter #8
if you can get a 2.3L duratec to fit, then just save up a little coin and get a Mazdaspeed turbo DISI motor and wiring harness.
I'm not sure what a Mazdaspeed DISI motor is. I'll have to search around and see.
Norm

Just looked, unless I find a good deal for one in a junk yard its going to be to much money.
 

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I'm not sure what a Mazdaspeed DISI motor is. I'll have to search around and see.
Norm

Just looked, unless I find a good deal for one in a junk yard its going to be to much money.
same motor out the Mazdaspeed 3, mazdaspeed 6, and CX-7

Idenitcal to the duratec, but stronger internals, direct injected, and turbo charged.
 

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HEY! we have some FF peeps in the b-town and tampa area! check out the regional section.

Think a zetec will be easier (can do ITBs!) or carb it...with itbs i think youd have to run megasquirt or something along those lines.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
HEY! we have some FF peeps in the b-town and tampa area! check out the regional section.

Think a zetec will be easier (can do ITBs!) or carb it...with itbs i think youd have to run megasquirt or something along those lines.
Is there much difference in the weight of the 2 engines?

I have been reading the thread "Contour SVT Swap!". And with all the help he had and after 2 plus years he is going to give up using the factory ECU and go with a Megasquirt.

I guess that seems to be the cheepest way to get a Duratec to run in a car that it was not orig. in.

I wonder if Focusbaja ever got his running.

Like every thing else, the lighter it is the better it will perform.
From what I have found,
Approxment
Type 1 VW 50hp, 215 lbs (Stock)
Type 2 VW 90hp, 315 lbs (Stock)
Duratec 2.0 140hp, 270 lbs
Duratec 2.3 150hp, 280 lbs
Zetec 2.0 130hp, 370 lbs
Ecotec 2.2 140hp, 350 lbs (L61)
Ecotec 2.0 205hp, (LSJ)
Ecotec 2.0 210hp, (210)

Its hard to tell about engine weights. I have been trying to find complete with acc.

I'm not sure about any of the weights, I have found the weight for a 2.0 Duratec range from 210 to 330lbs.

I'm trying to keep it light and dependable.
I have see alot of Ecotec swaps. There are a lot of part available for this and can be done at a reasonable cost.
I just like Fords more and it would be different.

It looks like I wont be able to use the factory stuff and make a Duratec run.

Also this has been a good forum to get the answer I have been looking for.
Thank you, Norm
 

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that thread you are talking about is for a duratec v-6 from the contour svt.

The ITB zetec's can put out 200+hp (canterham 7's use them, but without a/c, ps) with much success. Might check out one of their forums for additional information.

Are those weights with our without the tranny?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
that thread you are talking about is for a duratec v-6 from the contour svt.

The ITB zetec's can put out 200+hp (canterham 7's use them, but without a/c, ps) with much success. Might check out one of their forums for additional information.

Are those weights with our without the tranny?
I have seen a few sites about the canterham 7'. Nice and light cars. It seems like in Europe there is a lot of support for Ford engines to be used. I have also seen that the cost of some of their stand alone ECU is $1500 and then $1000 for the wiring harness. More money than I want to spent for those parts.
I only paid about $3000 for the whole buggy. So it just a toy/hobby car to play with.

About the engine weights, I think its without the trans.
http://fixrambler.com/engineweightchart.txt

Here are a few GM swaps done at a reasonable cost. The 1st one done for about $2000. The 2nd a little more cause its super charge.
I know that its cost more to use a Ford and thats ok. I was wanting to keep the cost down.
http://www.woodsbuggy.com/index.php?option=com_jfusion&Itemid=10&jfile=viewtopic.php&f=23&t=7789
http://www.woodsbuggy.com/index.php?option=com_jfusion&Itemid=10&jfile=viewtopic.php&f=23&t=5179

Norm
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I have seen a few sites about the canterham 7'. Nice and light cars. It seems like in Europe there is a lot of support for Ford engines to be used. I have also seen that the cost of some of their stand alone ECU is $1500 and then $1000 for the wiring harness. More money than I want to spent for those parts.
I only paid about $3000 for the whole buggy. So it just a toy/hobby car to play with.

About the engine weights, I think its without the trans.
http://fixrambler.com/engineweightchart.txt

Here are a few GM swaps done at a reasonable cost. The 1st one done for about $2000. The 2nd a little more cause its super charge.
I know that its cost more to use a Ford and thats ok. I was wanting to keep the cost down.
http://www.woodsbuggy.com/index.php?option=com_jfusion&Itemid=10&jfile=viewtopic.php&f=23&t=7789
http://www.woodsbuggy.com/index.php?option=com_jfusion&Itemid=10&jfile=viewtopic.php&f=23&t=5179

Norm

Yes I know that that thread was about using a V6. Are you saying that I wont have the same problems with the ECU and harness using a I4 ?
 

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running no. no IM or EX man or oil pan. just saying 230lb extra is a lot w/o having the tranny on it.

on that site it doesnt say for sure and says it is varied in the the form the engine was weighed. it could have had full accessories, act, alt, ps, flywheel and clutch, ex man and cat... they could have just pulled it complete and weighed it. i could see that weighing that much.
 

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I have also seen that the cost of some of their stand alone ECU is $1500 and then $1000 for the wiring harness. More money than I want to spent for those parts.
I only paid about $3000 for the whole buggy. So it just a toy/hobby car to play with.
have you looked into megasquirt? how much experience do you have or care to learn about diy ecu's. the price is unmatchable and megatune is nice. but you have to know how to do it all yourself. if you can get stock ecu, wiring, and sct to work then that is your best bet.. but megasquirt will work very well.
 

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running no. no IM or EX man or oil pan. just saying 230lb extra is a lot w/o having the tranny on it.

on that site it doesnt say for sure and says it is varied in the the form the engine was weighed. it could have had full accessories, act, alt, ps, flywheel and clutch, ex man and cat... they could have just pulled it complete and weighed it. i could see that weighing that much.
Its hard to tell about engine weights. I'm looking for the weight of a running engine. There is no set standard for this to compare engines that I have found.
 

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have you looked into megasquirt? how much experience do you have or care to learn about diy ecu's. the price is unmatchable and megatune is nice. but you have to know how to do it all yourself. if you can get stock ecu, wiring, and sct to work then that is your best bet.. but megasquirt will work very well.
I will get the wiring harness and the ecu from the junk car. I have also looked at sct website. I cant see it anywhere that it said you will be able to turn off the anti thelf system or pat system.
I have a sct for my ford f150 and their is no user option to turn pat off.
Here is a link to the manual, on page 8 list the user adjustment option.
http://www.sctflash.com/PDF/3000-3015 small.pdf

I have looked at the Megasquirt. It looks like it is the way to go.
I dont have any experience in this type of wring and thats what I'm worried about.
I have rewired my lights,brake,turn signals and guages for my buggy. I know its alot more involved than that. I have seen the video on megasquit about how easy it is I'm not to sure about it.
I guess I'll call them and talk to them mainly about how much customer support there is if I'm having a problem.
Norm
 
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