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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My car is coming up on 120k and in the maintenance book it says I should replace the timing belt. I baby the car. Never dump the clutch or shift extremely hard on occasion I do to get on the highway but that's all.

Any of you guys know when I should replace it or if it will last if I keep babying it like I do?

Let me know!
 

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It doesn't really matter how you drive the car, it's wearing no matter what. If you can afford for it to break on you and leave you stranded and without a car for a day or two, keep driving it. If not you should plan on changing it soon. You could get a better idea by taking the upper timing cover off and looking at the belt, but in order to do that you need to remove the right engine mount since the upper cover is anchored by it, and it's a bit involved to do that.

Don't count on the belt lasting forever just because you're easy on the car, it doesn't work that way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Oh I understand that completely but if im rough on the car then the belt will go quicker. Ill replace it soon but I want some opinions before I have it done.
 

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I'm serious, you can baby the car all you want, but you'd need a metric shit ton of HP and drivetrain trauma that would break other stuff before it affected the belt. Daily driving or any slight tension or pulley misalignment is affecting your belt more than anything. It could last another 100K miles and it could go tomorrow. At this point it's nearly a decade old, do what you want but it's constantly wearing and will fail eventually.

Fords opinion is that the belt should have been changed already, that's a pretty well informed second opinion. Your car is not going to drive any differently before it lets go, it's just going to happen and then you'll be kind of [:)][:)][:)][:)][:)][:)]. If you intend to keep the car for another 20 or 30K miles, it needs to happen at some point soon. Save some money and do it.
 

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R.I.P Kona
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Yes 120k recommended. Did mine at 138k. Old belt looked great. No cracks or teeth damage. However some people have had theirs go out at 80k. Just depends on alot of stuff. If you took off timing cover you could inspect belt and see where you stand. Takes about 20 minutes or so if you have the tools and know how. Fyi dealer will charge you $1000+ for parts and labor. Be cheaper elsewhere and even more so if you do it yourself with a friend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
6SPD: It suggests 120k my car has 119k haha. I am doing it within the next month for sure. Like I said I wanted to get some opinions. Ive never owned a 4cyl. All V8 Chevys (305's) So I know guys like you know their stuff.

Dirt: Ok, cool but like i was saying to 6SPD I am having it done soon. I am not gonna mess it up so I am going to a shop to do it. Dual cams scare me lol. I've done a cam change by myself on my other Chevys but thats is cake compared to a 4 cyl


Should I get the kit and do the water pump and tensioners or just the belt? I am doing the kit and I got a quote for $550 so for a 4 hour or so job and the part being $170 labor at $40/hr + shop expenses and use. Just want more opinions.
 

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I have 67 on mine and I am thinking about doing it soon. I dont want it to go on my me @ 3am somewhere in maine or New Brusnwick on one of my trips.
 

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There's a gates belt kit (think it's TCK 294) that includes belt, tensioner and idler for around $70 or a little more, it's definitely worth spending a little more and changing all that. People have different opinions about the water pump, they think it's worth changing just because you're right there, but it's not driven by the timing belt so this is not an engine where new timing belt tension could affect the water pump bearings and cause it to seize. I think that's the misconception people have and why they think it should be done, it's a good rule of thumb if the water pump is timing belt driven, but this one isn't. I wouldn't bother with it, I can't recall ever reading here about water pump failure and I don't think it happens often on these cars.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks 6SPD. That last post made my last of my mind up because I was looking all over for a water pump failure for this engine but could never find one.

Thanks To everyone that help. I greatly appreciate it!
 

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PARTS HUNTER
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Its not about how u treat it its about how old the belt is. Fresher the rubber the better. This goes for tires,wipers,belts and hoses with aged rubber gets brittle instead of giving and stretching it snaps
 

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PARTS HUNTER
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Let's say u replace ur timing belt at 121k. And by luck ur water pump fails at 123k. Its easier just swapping it out than worrying about it there about $60 for a ford non-aftermarket one. It cut down labor costs too if u are not the one working on it
 

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ɔᴉʇɐuɐℲ snɔo&
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are there any signs to a timimg belt goin out (ie car runs funny)? mine has 67K and just curious..
Dude, not trying to be funny but the answere to your question was already mentioned a few times before right above man. Pay attention lol
 

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Dude, not trying to be funny but the answere to your question was already mentioned a few times before right above man. Pay attention lol
Well good thing cuz your not funny...where does it say anything about how the vehicle drives? I read how to check it. Pay attention to my question.
 

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ɔᴉʇɐuɐℲ snɔo&
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Your car will not tell you, no warning at all, no noises, vibrations, or anything. Just a good idea to look at it.

Your car is not going to drive any differently before it lets go, it's just going to happen and then you'll be kind of [:)][:)][:)][:)][:)][:)]. If you intend to keep the car for another 20 or 30K miles, it needs to happen at some point soon. Save some money and do it.
 

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I did my zetec one at 120K it seemed like it was still in good shape, I paid about $450 at the local mechanic, it included the water pump, the tensioners, idler pulley, and accessory drive belts as well as the timing belt replacement
 

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My work only car has 176K. original belt...i've ordered the parts last week to change it myself. Timing tools (amazon) $21.00, Belt (autozone) $32.00?, and a couple of tensioners also. total: $100. Won't be fun, but since i have ZX3 also i didn't want to spend $450x2. I've found great info on Youtube also, a very detailed two part video. Also a post just last week about someone changing their own timing belt.
 

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TURBO ZX3
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that youtube video really works it helped with me when i finished m y engine build
 

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coffee, have some
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There's a gates belt kit (think it's TCK 294) that includes belt, tensioner and idler for around $70 or a little more, it's definitely worth spending a little more and changing all that. People have different opinions about the water pump, they think it's worth changing just because you're right there, but it's not driven by the timing belt so this is not an engine where new timing belt tension could affect the water pump bearings and cause it to seize. I think that's the misconception people have and why they think it should be done, it's a good rule of thumb if the water pump is timing belt driven, but this one isn't. I wouldn't bother with it, I can't recall ever reading here about water pump failure and I don't think it happens often on these cars.
That's a good point about the water pump. I just figured why not replace it since you're right there already. I changed all pulleys, both belts and water pump at 100k on my last Focus.
 

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Jetsetter
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That's a good point about the water pump. I just figured why not replace it since you're right there already. I changed all pulleys, both belts and water pump at 100k on my last Focus.
not to mention you have to take the pulley off the water pump to replace the timing belt anyways, so whats 4 more bolts for an easy change?

I waited longer than I would have liked but I got to 152,000 on mine belt looked great but the pullets were shot.
 
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