[chadwick.byers]

Okay, I have been through every thread I can find on this subject until my eyes are literally pulling my eye lids shut. I have asked people at a number of different auto shops etc... I am trying to simply replace the valve stem seals on my 06 zx3. It has the 2.0 duratec motor with the dual overhead cams. I was told (disclaimer: "by a mechanic at O'Reilly's") that in order to get the seals out I need to take apart the entire timing chain assembly in order to get the cam shafts out and get to the valves. [chair] IS THERE ANY OTHER WAY? If not, can someone shoot me a message or post a process on how to get this accomplished without taking the motor out to get the front cover off?

Forever greatful for some help!!! Thanks. [wrenchin]

 

[elsolo]

You can remove and reinstall camshafts without pulling the motor or head, or even the timing cover.

Google : ford focus duratec cam swap

I found the Cosworth instructions easy to find, they explain how to release the tension from the timing chain tensioner, where to put the 3/16 pin to hold the tensioner back, etc.

 

[polygon]

If you suspect the stem seals, I'd take the head off and inspect the valves and seating for wear. It's not that much of a big job really and since you'll be removing the cams anyway, you're 50% there already. I've seen clips of stem seals replacement with the valves held in place under compression but the Duratec's are deep seated and not sure whether it can be done like that on this engine. Probably not.

 

[chadwick.byers]

Alright I'll look more ino the cos worth instructions. Thanks for the input. My biggest concern was messing with the timing and not getting everything adjusted back to where it was. I just had the car tuned and didn't want to wind up making another trip back. I watched a video of some people using the rope method where they stuck about 6ft of rope into the cylinder to keep te valves from dropping. Think that won't work with this motor?

 

[elsolo]

The "clothesline in the chamber" method requires you rotate the engine so the cylinder you are working on is near TDC. Gonna be tricky to do that with the timing chain dangling off the front.

If you need valve stem seals, the valve guides are quite possibly worn too. All cylinder head work is better done on the bench.

 

[polygon]

While I cannot say that I have good knowledge of the valve train arrangement on this 2L engine, you will definitely need to re-time it once you remove the cams. The cam oil seals will have to be replaced and the cam end bearing caps at the sprocket end will need to be sealed with a gasket maker.

Re-timing the engine is easy enough - I believe Duratec requires the use of a TDC pin that goes in the block to hold the crank in place and a cam plate that slots in at the cam ends when in TDC position. Others on this forum that have done this job will surely help you here.

If you plan to use a rope (some do this even for timing but I never felt comfortable with this method), just make sure you don't leave any residue in the piston chamber.

 

[sailor]

Why do you want to do this might be the best question.

 

[chadwick.byers]

Okay. I figured I'd have to re-time it ok I figured I would have to re-time it once I'm done. ill have to pick up the cam oil seals and the pin to stop the crank. I want to do this myself because i was quoted between 1500-1800 to have someone else do it

 

[elsolo]

What cam oil seals? The pulleys are inside the crankcase, unlike a belt driven cam.

What makes you think this needs to be done?

 

[chadwick.byers]

I am unsure about the cam oil deals too. Polygon said they'd need to be replaced. I know the bearing caps will be resealed but idk what the cam oil seals are. It smokes like crazy at start up for a little bit then goes away for the rest of the day. I know the seals are bad.

 

[chadwick.byers]

So to get the timing chain off I just need to loosen the chain tensioner and it should come off?

 

[elsolo]

Loosen the pawl, rotate the crank backwards a tad to push the tensioner in, insert a 3/16 pin to hold the tensioner back. That will let you remove the can sprockets. You gotta keep the chain from slacking too much so it stays on the crank sprocket though.

Two pistons will be at tdc, two at bdc. You won't be able to rotate the crank 180 with it like that though.

You can (probably) use compressed air with a spark plug hole adapter on the bdc pistons to hold the valves in place though. I never use those on a piston that is anything except bdc, the air pressure will push the piston to bdc really quickly with lots of force. That unexpected rotation of the crank will screw you up, even move a car in gear.

You have about 9.5" of square inch area on the piston, 100 psi makes it 950 pounds of force trying to get the piston to bdc.

 

[iminhell]

I am unsure about the cam oil deals too. Polygon said they'd need to be replaced. I know the bearing caps will be resealed but idk what the cam oil seals are. It smokes like crazy at start up for a little bit then goes away for the rest of the day. I know the seals are bad.

Pretty doubtful it's stem seals.

I'd look into the PCV first.

 

[polygon]

Like I said, I don't have enough knowledge of this particular engine. So I was now forced to dig up some old literature and made some scans which I upload here -

http://i59.tinypic.com/262mc5d.jpg
http://i59.tinypic.com/2po46j7.jpg
http://i57.tinypic.com/5ww29v.jpg
http://i60.tinypic.com/30mlvki.jpg
http://i59.tinypic.com/30nglfn.jpg
http://i58.tinypic.com/20jpjeh.jpg
http://i60.tinypic.com/2lbja8n.jpg
http://i62.tinypic.com/157en2x.jpg
http://i61.tinypic.com/1zej9de.jpg
http://i62.tinypic.com/2nvbg90.jpg

I hope that I got everything covered for this job on the 2L Duratec. This is from a Haynes manual and I suggest that you buy a copy if you find the above useful. One thing that I forgot to include is the torque settings so let me know if you plan to go ahead with the work.

Good luck.

 

[chadwick.byers]

Thanks again everyone for all this info. I will look into the manuals tho. I don't know why I never thought of buying one for my car anyway.

 

[chadwick.byers]

How do you get a bad or plugged PCV from smoke upon initial start up? Maybe if I had multiple seal or gasket failures, drips, noise, loss of pressure or constantly throwing a dtc...? I'll check to see if the lines are clogged and when I have the head pulled I'll know if there is a ton of sludge built up too, but I'm just a bit confused how you think pcv first and not the valve seals

 

[sailor]

Your info lists it as turbocharged, just how the PCV system is handled with that mod. can result in Oil smoking problems. iminhell might have been thinking of that for one possibility.

Sure the Turbo itself is OK?

Have you checked the intake/outlet pipes for oil? That can possibly tell if it's coming from somewhere OTHER than the valve stem seals.

 

[chadwick.byers]

Okay I see what you're saying. The turbo is a Garrett gt28rs and fairly new which is why I never really suspected it but I pulled the outlet tube from the turbo and there is a small amount of oil build up on the inside. Think it could now be a failing seal within the turbo?

 

[chadwick.byers]

Oil on the inside of the down tube on the cold side of the turbo. Think it could make its way through the intercooler up into the intake manifold down the valves and into the cylinder and cause initial smoking?

 

[elsolo]

Much more likely than vsalve stem seals.

Can't believe you would neglect to mention a turbo setup when asking for engine help.