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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
14sec 1/4 with only bolt-on's

I just took my ride to the drag strip...I must say, I was impressed with the results. First off, last year when I ran the 1/4 mile, I was running 17.7sec with a 2001 ZX3 Zetec with an MTX75 tranny with only a short ram intake...not very impressive. Since that time, I've put on a few parts. Here's the list:
AEM Short ram intake
EX3 Tuning cold air kit
OBX-R 4-1 header, ORP and cat-back exhaust
Eibach sport-line suspension kit
Nex-0 NT-5 17x7 wheels with 205/45/17 Yokohama Parada Spec-2 tires
Custom Carbons Carbon Fiber hood
Bosal Flex-pipe
Ford Racing 9mm spark plug wires
Bosch Spark plugs (One-step cooler)
Steeda 180 degree thermostat
Focus central STS
All Royal Purple Fluids (Motor Oil, Tranny)
SCT SuperChip with a Hypnotic Illusions 92 octane tune

All of that was good for a time of 15.64sec 1/4 time. That was with ALOT of wheel-hop though. My 60ft time was terrible at 2.6sec. Launching a Focus is tough business.
My goal is to get my car into the 14's with no forced induction on a stock top and bottom-end. I want to use only bolt-on's, or semi-bolt-on's. Any help in reaching my goal would be sweet. This is what is planned for the future, these parts might help me with those 14sec times:

4.06 gear set (already bought, awaiting install)
Torsen T-2 LSD (already bought, awaiting install)
Centerforce Stage-2 Clutch
Lakewood Traction bars
Replace rear shocks with AGX adjustable set to max stiffness
Ford Racing 65mm throttle body
28lb Fuel injectors
AEM Fuel Rail
Ford Racing High-flow fuel Pump
Screamin' Demon Coil Pack and wires
Ford Racing Underdrive Crank pulley
AEM Alternator Pulley
Re-tune of SCT chip for new mods

If anybody has any suggestions, that would be great, Thanks!!
 

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( o Y o )
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also get some cam gears...once you have those you can mess around with the stock cams to get more power outta them, and then get a new tune for that and get even more outta the tune and motor.
 

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well, u wont need the injectors, fuel pump, alternator pulley, and the colder plugs are not needed unle ur running higher compression, NOS, or F/I.
if i were u, i'd learn to race, and get some stage 2 ford racing cams, cam gears, and dyno tune it. other wise if u could drive better, u'd be in the high 14s-mid 14s prety easily.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Learning to race isn't the problem. I've been dragging since I was 16. My launching problems come from the wheel-hop inherent in the front-drive design. I didn't know, however, that the injectors and fuel related stuff was not needed. I assumed it would help considering all the added air from the 65mm throttle body and the chips ability to make use of the new air/fuel mixture. I know the traction bars will help the wheel hop and the new rear struts will keep the weight forward as much as possible. I'm going to do the suspension work before anything else to see if that helps the 60' time.
Also, on the street doing a second gear rolling start I took a T/C Eagle Talon that runs 15.1's. So I know from that that from a dead stop my car is a pig...haha.
 

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( o Y o )
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have you tried feathering the clutch out when you launch? I thought this sounded bad, but rev the engine up to 4 or 5k rpms and dont just drop the clutch, let it out some to get a roll going and then drop it the rest of the way. with just my intake, flex and flex back i did that and ran 16.3s on wens night in like 75-80 degree weather (ive done 15.9s in winter). 60 foots were 2.3s, coming from 2.4s and higher when I didnt do this. I am not the best at doing this yet, but Im getting better. Drag racing just takes practice.
 

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bigred, you have to realize the altitude difference as well. he's up in ohio(higher altitude, meaning less oxygen concentration) and you are down in florida(damn near sea level, meaning almost max oxygen concentration). this results in gas not combusting very well in high altitude and combusting very well in low altitude.
 

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I know he was up in ohio, i was explaining about the wheel hop and launching and what it got me down in low altitudes. i want to get my times to where he is (mid 15s) with similar mods. Its all a matter of money and time...neither of which i have right now.
 

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aha, gotcha. i misunderstood what you were sayin'
 

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That Iowa Guy
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I agree with the cam gears, maybe even some cams if you could bring yourself to it. The 65mm TB is a good idea too, it should open it up a little more. To compliment the TB, you could also get a 2000 ported intake manifold.
 

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RespectMyAuthoritah!
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and you didn't let me know that you were going? DAMN YOU! I'm hoping to run a low 16 with my Mods and my new 17's. Now i just have to get a damn flasher so i can data log and fine tune everything. We're having a mini g2g at Dragway 42 in Lodi, OH here in the beginning of June! It'd be a great mini convoy on the way down.


you go to Norwalk or Dragway 42?
 

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Wow...looking at the times you can run with the MTX is just depressing.....I could only with that us less fortunate folks with the ATX could rung 15's with those mods.
 

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Im in the same situation as YellowZX3, bolt-ons and a tune running low 15's if I could get a decent 60'.

Heres some suggestions, you don't need the clutch unless the stocker is slipping in which case I would get another stocker.

None of the fuel components are needed as you still won't be pushing that much hp and still way within the limit of stock.

The aem alternator pulley doesn't do anything and is a pain in the ass to put on, if you want a pretty color pulley on there then get it. Go with the AFX udp if you want the most gains as I do believe it is the smallest, giving the most underdrive.

According to your mod list you have the obx shorty header into the orp? If so then get a long tube header as the shorty/orp won't give you near the gains a long tube will. I recommend either the obx 4-2-1, the fs 4-1, or the svt.

The throttle body won't really increase power, maybe 1whp at higher rpms, but the throttle response is awesome and makes the car alot more fun to drive ( Im running the 65mm FC tb).

The screamin demon coil also won't do anything for power, maybe increase smoothness of acceleration. Lots of people are running ALOT of hp on the stock coil and wires including the WRC focus. And I doubt

Also you might want to get a set of rubber spring blocks, I think they sell them at most auto parts stores. Jack up the rear put them inbetween the rear spring coils. This should help reduce weight transfer to the rear when launching. ( I plan on doing this next winter when I
go back to the track)

One last thing. All 3 motor/ tranny mounts from vf should help traction issues. I would take a look into getting those.

My current mod list: Iceman intake, FC 65mm TB, AFX UDP, OBX 4-2-1 header, FS Flex, MBRP exhaust, FS/SCT 93 oct tune, prothane dogbone mount inserts, custom upper tranny mount stiffener, and for suspension FK 60/40 kit which is about 2.3inch front/ 1.5inch rear.
 

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I wouldn't piss around with KYB-AGX shocks in the rear only riding on stock springs...they're not going to help you all that much, at least not enough to justify the high price on those (not to mention, your ride quality would be terrible with the butter stock front struts and hard rear dampers riding on stock springs on all four corners.)

The only mods I see in your list that will actually improve your 1/4 time are the LSD and 4.06 gears. The TB, 28# injectors, fuel rail, fuel pump and coil won't do much for you without a worked head, port-matched '00 intake manifold/aftermarket IM and STG III+ cams. I'd drop all of that stuff, the stock pump and rail put out enough fuel pressure to feed 42# injectors on an aggressive turbo setup, a 65mm TB doesn't do anything for N/A setups aside from shorten throttle response and the coil requires a richer A/F ratio (meaning you need to be running aggressive N/A or FI) before you'll see a benefit from the increased plug gap size aside from marginally better gas mileage. I'd take the money from all of that and get a decent suspension setup; SVT springs with KYB-AGX struts and dampers on all four corners.

Although, this all begs the question to be asked; why not just get something with eight cylinders and RWD if you're only concerned with drag racing?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well, I ordered the LSD last night and talked to my friend about installing the gears, clutch, and LSD. So, once it arrives, the Focus is going up on the lift for a week-end of tranny work and beer drinking. I'm ordering the VF motor mounts today after work, so I'll be installing those as well. I'm forgoing all of the fuel system, alternator pulley and ignition work and putting my time and money into the drivetrain and suspension. In terms of making a decent 1/4 mile car, that is the weakest point of the Focus. As for where I race, I do all my dragging at Norwalk, I've never been to 42, so when you all go Disco, hit me up, I'm always up for something new.
SkaAddict, I'm using the Focus as a 1/4 mile car because I want a sweet straight-line street car that is out of the ordinary. My first car was an 89 Mustang 5.0 with an ATX and I had that in the 13's. My last "real" car was an 87 Turbo Regal that ran a 10.55 on street tires...and it was a daily driver. I've had the rear drive/atx before, and they are a blast....especially the Regal that had both front tires off the ground for the first 60'...hehe. I want a 14sec Focus to have fun on the street. There are a lot of punks around where I live with V6 Mustangs and Civics with big Coffee-can mufflers who think that they are god's gift to the street. Its fun to humble them with my Bumble-bee looking Focus. I'm looking to humble even more powerful cars...there is a 350Z that needs a spanking...haha
 

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YellowZX3 good luck with your project, i set my focus up to be a sleeper, no one in my town gives it any credit and when I go to the track I get guys that say well its just a focus what they don’t know is it runs 15.1 and that was on bald street tries. I just got my 4.06 and LSD back last night and I'm going to put it back next week along with my stage 2 clutch. I'm always happy to seeing someone mod there Focus.

Good luck
 
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