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... Someone else posted (as a response to another post) that Ford should be called an a ticket should be opened. Does anyone have a phone number that I can call?
I believe there's an 800 number in the owner's manual. Another way to do that is to send a personal message to the Ford Service representatives who monitor this site:

Find a post by FordService. Click their username in the pane to the left of the comment, right under the date and time of the comment. On the list that drops down, click "Send a private message to FordService". (The same method works for any user, not just them.)

They usually ask owners who contact them to send their name, email address, VIN, and a description of the problem.

... I would like to learn more about cars (and am, a little at a time). ...
Youtube is the answer. For starters, try "PowerShift 6-speed Automatic Transmission" Uploaded on Aug 24, 2011 by fordowner.

I have a list of 20 other good ones I can send if you're interested. Of course, there are many more that are a waste of time, which I have watched too many of. I guess sometime soon I should start my own thread to post the links to the good ones I've found.
 

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...Someone else posted (as a response to another post) that Ford should be called an a ticket should be opened. Does anyone have a phone number that I can call?..
[wave] Hi there! Arco-Zakus below's got it spot on.

I believe there's an 800 number in the owner's manual. Another way to do that is to send a personal message to the Ford Service representatives who monitor this site:

Find a post by FordService. Click their username in the pane to the left of the comment, right under the date and time of the comment. On the list that drops down, click "Send a private message to FordService". (The same method works for any user, not just them.)

They usually ask owners who contact them to send their name, email address, VIN, and a description of the problem...
Thanks!

My SEL goes in Tuesday the 16th. Wish me luck?
I got your message. :) Looking now.

Meagan
 

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Just an update on ours: finally got it back yesterday and to my dismay, and despite repeatedly checking, we received the "D" clutches instead of the new "F" clutches. What will the long-term impact be? Being that we plan on dumping the car before the extended clutch warranty is up, hopefully nothing. As of now, car drives 1000x better than before - I'm glad we were at least able to get this update. However would have obviously preferred the newest clutch available giving that the update from D-->F indicates something was done to modify the clutch performance or spec.
 

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Just an update on ours: finally got it back yesterday and to my dismay, and despite repeatedly checking, we received the "D" clutches instead of the new "F" clutches.
I assume you had to ask them which clutch pack you received?

I'd like to know which revision I have, but it hasn't been into service yet (and hopefully never will be).
 

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Just an update on ours: finally got it back yesterday and to my dismay, and despite repeatedly checking, we received the "D" clutches instead of the new "F" clutches.
The moral of the story is if you want the "F" revision clutch, don't rush to get this repair done. Wait until Ford uses up their supply of "D" clutches.

I think that possibly the more important issue is to get the very latest input shaft seal which is the "D" seal. Oil contamination of the clutch is a major cause of shudder.
 

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The moral of the story is if you want the "F" revision clutch, don't rush to get this repair done. Wait until Ford uses up their supply of "D" clutches.
This is exactly why I'm waiting - well, if I even qualify for a new clutch. I already had the D revision clutch and new seal put it, but the grinding came back after 30k miles. [:(]

Although, I'm not sure if it's the clutch itself or the software. I'm just going to wait until next summer to replace it so that I get the most out of my clutch after my 125k mile extended warranty expires in the fall of next year.
 

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I assume you had to ask them which clutch pack you received?

I'd like to know which revision I have, but it hasn't been into service yet (and hopefully never will be).
The only way I knew is the "D" suffix on the end of the part number listed on my service invoice.

Agree with others: IF you can wait, deffinently do. I asked 3 separate times and was told yes, you'll receive the latest clutch referenced in the memo. Nothing I can do now. I doubt it'll matter in our case - car is the wife's now, she drives minimal mileage, and we have 4 years left on the warranty extension. We'll drive it for those 4 more years or until our family outgrows it then get rid of the car.
 

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Ford is currently repairing mine. As soon as it is out of the shop, it'll be going straight to CarMax. I've owned numerous Subaru's (current family hauler is a 2012 Outback), 2 Mazda's, an Acura, and a VW. I've owned this Focus now and have a 2000 Ford F-250 for heavy work. The only two vehicles to have been in the shop for anything more than routine maintenance are the two Fords, and both on multiple occasions. I swore off Ford after my F-250 5.4 triton blew the spark plugs through the head (read all about that issue elsewhere) and Ford hung me out to dry. Focus was what the wife wanted, so we got it. Now she can't wait to get back into another Subaru - vehicles which have NEVER left us stranded.

The Focus is so enticing - it drives great, awesome interior, great design. Had they just put in a normal torque converter transmission, the car would be lightyears better. My rental 2013 Civic is getting better MPG than my Focus is with a normal torque converter transmission and it shifts just fine. Oh well, off to something that'll provide my family more sanity after this one [driving]
Man, I have had 2 2012 focus' (the first was a stick and was primarily trouble free) the second is a lemon. And I had a 2000 F350 that disintegrated over night, literally just fell apart, granted it was a diesel with 200k+ miles on it, but it locked calipers like crazy, blew oil and fuel lines, the GEM Module freaked out and caused all sorts of electrical issues, etc. It was expected to have some issues on a truck with that many miles, but not overnight and as quickly as they happened, it was crazy....got out from under that one right away.

Gotta love my silverados I had before and after that ford.....my '09 silverado used some oil and was fixed right up under warranty with no problems at all from my dealer. 30k miles trouble free since that one bad oil change.....

As for us, Rose Rogers who is some sort of Great Lakes Director of customer service finally called me back today to schedule my repair, too little too late as we were able to escalate above her and find someone to help us. Dealer is supposed to call back thursday to schedule us....he couldn't believe how much stuff (steering, wheel bearings, sync, and trans) has gone bad on our car (all multiple times too).

As for the Subaru comment, I had a 99 RS coupe that used oil like crazy, but shifted fine (manual), drove fine, and never let me down in 160k miles or so....but it only started using oil later in life. Regardless we went and looked at a new Impreza last night. More thoughtfully laid out interior, better storage, cup holders, etc. Seats fold down and provide more room in the back than our focus (both hatches) and only 1-2 highway mpg worse with AWD.

Impreza is a very real replacement possiblity for this lemon.

I've never experienced such terrible customer service in my entire life.
 

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I think that is a little hasty. I was hoping to clarifies it to them. The seals are the root problem are they not? Causing fluid leakage. This intern causes the dual clutch pack to be contaminated with oil as it is intended to operate dry. The now contaminated clutch's then slip. So if you have your seals done the clutches have to be done. This is what I thought, and from the looks of it, it has to be done just right.
 

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I think that is a little hasty. I was hoping to clarifies it to them. The seals are the root problem are they not? Causing fluid leakage. This intern causes the dual clutch pack to be contaminated with oil as it is intended to operate dry. The now contaminated clutch's then slip. So if you have your seals done the clutches have to be done. This is what I thought, and from the looks of it, it has to be done just right.
It's really not all that hasty, I guess it depends, do you want to keep the car, or do you just want it fixed?

If you want it fixed for the long haul demand the "full job" not just halfsies....if you just want it fixed so you can rid yourself of the garbage just let them do the seals and then put the for sale sign in the window.

If they won't do the full job go to a different dealer who will fix the car properly.
 

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"Official" fix varies depending on symptoms & VIN (some get seals even if not leaking yet for example).

Not a fan of the intermediate level fix that involves cleaning the clutches, though it does avoid a fresh break in period somewhat.

Some have had luck getting a better diagnosis/measurement of the issue after getting the car NICE & warm from stop & go driving before the testing is done. The Dealer might go along with a recheck of this type to help you out - it's worked for some who's cars didn't meet the minimum std. for clutch work in the past.
 

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Don't know if it's normal for new clutches but I'm hearing some grinding after a week of having the car back from the dealer. I despise Ford and theyre incompetence of making a decent car. I'm filing Camvap and getting my money back from these blood suckers.
 

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"Official" fix varies depending on symptoms & VIN (some get seals even if not leaking yet for example).

Not a fan of the intermediate level fix that involves cleaning the clutches, though it does avoid a fresh break in period somewhat.

Some have had luck getting a better diagnosis/measurement of the issue after getting the car NICE & warm from stop & go driving before the testing is done. The Dealer might go along with a recheck of this type to help you out - it's worked for some who's cars didn't meet the minimum std. for clutch work in the past.
this is my feeling. Why, if my car shows symptoms, don't you do the complete fix. With new clutch pack and all. Also, I got my focus when it has 40,000+ miles I have put another 10,000 on it. What are the long term effects to the transmission if it has been loosing fluid this whole time.
 

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My early model 2013 Ford focus has 17,400 miles on it. The grinding and shuddering is very apparent and Ford called yesterday and it is getting the full clutch pack and seal installation. I will post up results later. Parts are ordered and they may have the car for a few days from what I was told. They issued a Rent-A-Car to me three days ago when I dropped the car off. This five-star Ford dealership is always treated me very well.
 
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