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Thats What She Said
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just got back from the local "international" auto show where the Utah Salt Flats Racing Association for Bonneville Salt Flats. talking to him about the 130+ club and was wanting to know if it was at all possible. In a few threads below there was talk about hitting 140 but guessing that's on asphalt or concrete and not the salt. Also only have 1 mile to do it. My guess is that this cant happen unless I am pushing over 200+ HP

I have full bolt-ons and built motor and such with a tune.

I do have 4.10 gears though so would that auto limit my top speed? what is the RPM at 130 MPH on 4.10 gears?

but could it be possible?

Thanks!
 

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To bad I didn't collect data when I was cruising around the flats at 120mph, bouncing off the governor. [driving]

I was driving my stock 05 ST (about 150 crank hp) with 3.8 gears. Problem is traction off the line. Any sudden inputs on the salt breaks traction so launching is hard and your 4.10s may make that harder. But once it grabs, you're golden.

Sorry I don't have any data to support this but I think if you are making a little more power than I am and aren't rev or speed limited, I think 130 in a mile is possible.
 

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Thats What She Said
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Really wonder what the RPMs are. I know I can do the maths but a bit lazy right now. I am at 3.5k at 80 MPH in 5th gear. its 3k at around 70 so 130 I would be sitting at 5.5k rpm... assuming linear scaling. that's not as bad as I thought it might be.

my zetec was built but really for a turbo which I still dont have. I am also an open diff still which will make launching all the much harder.

I found a list of people that are in the 130 club but just the names, no car information.
 

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Thats What She Said
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
doing maths it looks like if I can maintain an average of .11g of acceleration (accelerate at an average rate of 3.42f/sec) i can hit 130 MPH in 1 mile.

sound doable in a focus on salt?
 

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Using the math you used to figure the acceleration rate you need, what would be the rate of a standard focus doing the quarter mile on pavement? My focus is rated at 16sec @ 86mph (assuming you would be similar). ...And let's pretend it's linear, like what you said.

I'm curious how close the dry pavement acceleration is compared to what you need to achieve on salt. Once you get traction on the salt, it's almost as good as pavement. Once you lose traction, it's like driving on ice.
 

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Thats What She Said
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
They post what the grip is for the salt and its around .45 to .25. asphalt is usually a .6 wet or a .8 when dry

So its quite a bit less.
 

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Compared my ZTS 2.3 to the '85 Alfa GTV-6 I once owned, and weight/size/HP was comparable to to that car's 2.5 V6. It made your target speed a few times but I never timed it/tried to get there as fast as possible.

Aero is important, you'd want to tweak that a bit with some small changes at least.
 

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Thats What She Said
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yea I dont think my wide open front bumper would be very helpful for top speed.
 

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Prob. not, and a lip at the end of the roof helps - gotta break the air away clean when it can't follow the curves...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Been looking at getting an SVT spoiler... will have to watch the TopGear where they go to the salt flats again.... the use of duct tape helped them.
 

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You said you need to avg 3.42f/s/s acceleration to hit your mark.

A stock focus making 150hp will avg 7.88f/s/s on a dry pavement 1/4 mile.

And the salt has less than half the grip. So that's cutting it close or not good enough for the first quarter mile. Your guess is as good as mine for the remaining 3/4 mile.

EDIT: anybody have a 0-top speed time for the focus on pavement?

Edit again haha: when I was messing around out there, traction wasnt a problem above about 40mph. So really, I don't think traction will be your limiting factor. Unless you are making way more than 150hp...
 

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Really wonder what the RPMs are. I know I can do the maths but a bit lazy right now. I am at 3.5k at 80 MPH in 5th gear. its 3k at around 70 so 130 I would be sitting at 5.5k rpm... assuming linear scaling. that's not as bad as I thought it might be.

my zetec was built but really for a turbo which I still dont have. I am also an open diff still which will make launching all the much harder.

I found a list of people that are in the 130 club but just the names, no car information.
If your tach is accurate then calculting it would be 127 or 128. I used both sets of info that you supplied and came up with about a half a mile an hour difference. Assuming you can pull more than 5.5k rpm should be no problem to reach 130. I thought salt flat runs were timed in a mile but you have much more distance to get to that point of measurement.
 

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So I take it your car hasnt seen those speeds on asphalt before? No other standing mile races type things yet?

There was this guy, different motor but had intake/header/exhaust/tune and looks to have maxed out at 129mph on asphalt. Typically those mods on a 2.0l duratec put hp/tq around 130-140 at the wheels.
http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=254759

Makes me think getting to 130 on salt will be tricky. I am really curious though to see what your car can do [:)]
 

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Thats What She Said
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I have not gotten to that speed on asphalt. The longest bit of track is about 1,200 feet and hit about 90ish on that at Miller Motorsports Park. While in Germany I got a Ford C-Max 1.0L Eco boost to 115-119mph and was only limited by power. so I would hope my 2.0l would help.

I know the 4.10 gears would limit top speed but more in theory right because the focus is going to not have enough power before I run out of RPM range.

the motor is built and can handle 7k RPM all day long. (no billet oil pump but new stock one and all forged internals)

thanks for the link.

The salt its a standing mile. the 150 club you have to have more safety that I don't have and its in 2 miles.

Salt will have MUCH less traction off the line which is where the 4.10 gears can hurt but I can also always launch in 2nd. have one less gear change.

His mods he said were: fswerks cai, f2 header and exhaust

I have the SVT exhaust full system so would have a bit more power there. Also have full 2000 intake manifold port matched to the 65mmTB and cold air intake. also have the built motor with forged internals and upgraded valve train.

I might work on trying to get cam gears and cams and my dyno tune done prior to it so I can have the more power at the higher band. I am working a a lot of over time lately so I am sure I can convince the wife to let the some extra $ each month be spent on some car parts. the next race is in the fall so have 8 months.
 

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Thats What She Said
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
yes sorry he does say he has a local tune done. I for got to mention that. else wise he would max out around 115MPH.
 

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Aero is super important at those speeds and can mean the difference between reaching your goal or not. I like MPG but the aero principles that get more miles out of a gallon are also what allow you to reach higher speeds. Some notes:

1. No, your wide open front bumper is not good for aero. Just some duct tape might not be sturdy enough to bridge the gap.

2. Reduced ground clearance keeps the air around the car and not causing problems under it, so your longer than normal bumper is also a benefit.

3. Front air dam keeping air from under the car, side skirts to help keep the air from coming in between the wheels and a smooth belly pan under the rear section help slip through the air. If you can't do side skirts, the smoother the underside of the car is, the better.

4. Sailor is correct, a sharp edge at the back of the car (all sides) helps the air separate cleanly and reduces the rear drag. A boat tail is best but sharp edges do help immensely.

5. You need engine cooling but its best to get air flow from as low as possible so that the air doesn't create turbulence traveling through the engine compartment toward it's exit under the car.

6. Smooth wheels covers

7. Seal up other areas of the front end. Any holes that allow air into the front end cause turbulence increase drag and slow you down.

8. Since this is also kind of a drag race, weight reduction will help you take full advantage of the HP within the time/space parameters.

9. Remove mud flaps (if equipped) and install tire spats (little air blockers in front of tires on many new cars)

10. Fill any gap between tire and fender to keep air flowing around body instead of turbulence in the wheel well, rear wheel skirts even better. "Stance" or "tucking tire" is the idea here, and if you can't lower the car any more, extend the body to close around the tire.

11. Taller tires give you basically a lower (numerically) final drive, theoretically increasing your top speed if you have the power to keep cutting through the air.

12. Skinny tires have less rolling resistance, not sure how important this in on the salt but thought I should add it. Most salt flat cars I've seen on the web run relatively skinny tires.

13. Google salt flat cars to see all their little streamlining tricks and salt-scraping air dams.

HTH
 
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