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If it hasn't been known by now that there only a few companies that market turbo systems for the Duratec Focus. A few members here and myself aren't willing to pay $3,000-$4,000 + S&H for a pre-fabbed kit. Some of us just want to liberty to say "yea... I built it myself".
Thankfully FF has some people with a great amount of knowledge (or balls) to make their own systems. I personally want to give a BIG shout-out to Sporadic for taking the time to post all of his information and pictures here on FF for all of us to study. Without his inspiration I probably wouldn't even consider attemping to build my own system.
With that out of the way I will list all the parts I will be using during my build:
- IHI RHB52 from 1987-1988 T-Bird Turbocoupe
- 60lb/hr Siemen Fuel Injectors w/ C-F-M Adapter Harness
- 2.5" Universal Front Mount Intercooler 24" x 7" x 3"
- 2.5" Intercooler Piping & Silicone Couplers (Turbo-to-Intercooler)
- 3.0" Intercooler Piping & Silicone Couplers (Intercooler-to-Throttle Body)
- Pre-Fabbed 2.5" Intercooler Pipe w/ HKS SSQV BOV mount
- 3.0" Blow-Thru MAF house w/ 2005+ Mustang GT MAF sensor
- JGS Turbo Manifold
- SCT Flash Tuner
- Oil Supply Line w/ Adapters & .06 Restrictor
- Oil Drain Line w/ Adapters & Oil Pan Weld-on Bung
- 2.5" Home made Downpipe Assembly w/ 2-O2 Sensor Bungs
- Oil Catch Can
** Equipment for Later **
- A Pillar Gauge Pod
- Boost/Vac Gauge
- Electric Oil Pressure Gauge
- Electric Water Temperature Gauge
- Wideband O2 Sensor
The plan is to run my Turbo System at a low PSI to keep things safe. I am running my setup to utilize a Blow Off Valve. Heck, if you have a turbo system then you probably would like to hear it. I know I would.
I am using the HKS SSQV because of their high reputation. The RHB52 turbo can be hard to find replacement parts for so I would suggest to everyone who considers building your own project to look for the T3 turbo used in the later years of the Ford SVO/TurboCoupe or even the Merkur XR4TI. This will save you a big headache if you run into the same problems I have.
Some of you reading this are probably wondering about a few things, so I will answer a few before I post some pictures:
"If the IHI RHB5 is hard to get parts for, then why didn't you purchase the T3 Instead?"
Simple, the T3 is even harder to find used because they are universal. There are a million places that carry parts for it. The T3 may be bigger in size but I feel safer starting with a smaller turbo.
"I have been told that running a BOV on a car with a MAF style computer system can cause engine damage."
This is absolutly correct! Running a BOV after a MAF sensor will make your engine stumble & stutter because all the air that has just been "metered" has now been released into the atmosphere. The computer doesn't recognize this and will continue to allow a high amount of fuel to enter the engine while there isn't an adequate amount of air to compensate for the extra fuel. In other words your engine will be extremely rich. If a BOV is placed before the MAF sensor then there won't be a problem because the MAF sensor hasn't metered the air yet. That also goes to say that if your engine's computer system relies on a MAP sensor then you can run a BOV regardless because the MAP sensor reads the Vacuum/Pressure inside the Intake Manifold. So there isn't any problem this way. The other way to run a system is by doing what most Manufacturers do. They run a Diverter valve that recirculates the air back to the turbo inlet. This is typically the safest way to run any turbo system.
"If you are running a BOV before the MAF sensor then that would mean you are placing the MAF sensor in the compressor's outlet side?"
This is also correct. This setup requires a particular type of MAF sensor housing known as a "Blow-Thru MAF Housing" which isn't what most vehicles use as OEM. Most cars would use a "Suck-Thru" MAF housing like a factory MAF would be on a Focus. The only difference is the suck-thru has air being sucked thru and the Blow-thru has air pressure inside of it and usually is secure to a pipe with a strong clamp unlike a suck-thru.
"Why don't you use the DiabloSport MAFia instead of a Custom MAF housing and Mustang GT MAF sensor?"
Well... that is because I plan on using the BOV like I mentioned before and this requires me to put the housing in the pressurized side (blow-thru). So I would need a new housing regradless. I suppose I could use my factory MAF sensor with the MAFia, but the Mustang GT MAF is good to around 400HP. If I even come close to pegging out the Mustang MAF sensor then I still have the option of using a MAFia.
So here is what I have so far. There are alot of parts on order and I am lucky enough to have a good friend to let me use his MIG welder that has Argon purge. Please keep in mind that this is a work in progress!!! Thanks, enjoy the pictures!
The good:
Thankfully FF has some people with a great amount of knowledge (or balls) to make their own systems. I personally want to give a BIG shout-out to Sporadic for taking the time to post all of his information and pictures here on FF for all of us to study. Without his inspiration I probably wouldn't even consider attemping to build my own system.
With that out of the way I will list all the parts I will be using during my build:
- IHI RHB52 from 1987-1988 T-Bird Turbocoupe
- 60lb/hr Siemen Fuel Injectors w/ C-F-M Adapter Harness
- 2.5" Universal Front Mount Intercooler 24" x 7" x 3"
- 2.5" Intercooler Piping & Silicone Couplers (Turbo-to-Intercooler)
- 3.0" Intercooler Piping & Silicone Couplers (Intercooler-to-Throttle Body)
- Pre-Fabbed 2.5" Intercooler Pipe w/ HKS SSQV BOV mount
- 3.0" Blow-Thru MAF house w/ 2005+ Mustang GT MAF sensor
- JGS Turbo Manifold
- SCT Flash Tuner
- Oil Supply Line w/ Adapters & .06 Restrictor
- Oil Drain Line w/ Adapters & Oil Pan Weld-on Bung
- 2.5" Home made Downpipe Assembly w/ 2-O2 Sensor Bungs
- Oil Catch Can
** Equipment for Later **
- A Pillar Gauge Pod
- Boost/Vac Gauge
- Electric Oil Pressure Gauge
- Electric Water Temperature Gauge
- Wideband O2 Sensor
The plan is to run my Turbo System at a low PSI to keep things safe. I am running my setup to utilize a Blow Off Valve. Heck, if you have a turbo system then you probably would like to hear it. I know I would.
I am using the HKS SSQV because of their high reputation. The RHB52 turbo can be hard to find replacement parts for so I would suggest to everyone who considers building your own project to look for the T3 turbo used in the later years of the Ford SVO/TurboCoupe or even the Merkur XR4TI. This will save you a big headache if you run into the same problems I have.
Some of you reading this are probably wondering about a few things, so I will answer a few before I post some pictures:
"If the IHI RHB5 is hard to get parts for, then why didn't you purchase the T3 Instead?"
Simple, the T3 is even harder to find used because they are universal. There are a million places that carry parts for it. The T3 may be bigger in size but I feel safer starting with a smaller turbo.
"I have been told that running a BOV on a car with a MAF style computer system can cause engine damage."
This is absolutly correct! Running a BOV after a MAF sensor will make your engine stumble & stutter because all the air that has just been "metered" has now been released into the atmosphere. The computer doesn't recognize this and will continue to allow a high amount of fuel to enter the engine while there isn't an adequate amount of air to compensate for the extra fuel. In other words your engine will be extremely rich. If a BOV is placed before the MAF sensor then there won't be a problem because the MAF sensor hasn't metered the air yet. That also goes to say that if your engine's computer system relies on a MAP sensor then you can run a BOV regardless because the MAP sensor reads the Vacuum/Pressure inside the Intake Manifold. So there isn't any problem this way. The other way to run a system is by doing what most Manufacturers do. They run a Diverter valve that recirculates the air back to the turbo inlet. This is typically the safest way to run any turbo system.
"If you are running a BOV before the MAF sensor then that would mean you are placing the MAF sensor in the compressor's outlet side?"
This is also correct. This setup requires a particular type of MAF sensor housing known as a "Blow-Thru MAF Housing" which isn't what most vehicles use as OEM. Most cars would use a "Suck-Thru" MAF housing like a factory MAF would be on a Focus. The only difference is the suck-thru has air being sucked thru and the Blow-thru has air pressure inside of it and usually is secure to a pipe with a strong clamp unlike a suck-thru.
"Why don't you use the DiabloSport MAFia instead of a Custom MAF housing and Mustang GT MAF sensor?"
Well... that is because I plan on using the BOV like I mentioned before and this requires me to put the housing in the pressurized side (blow-thru). So I would need a new housing regradless. I suppose I could use my factory MAF sensor with the MAFia, but the Mustang GT MAF is good to around 400HP. If I even come close to pegging out the Mustang MAF sensor then I still have the option of using a MAFia.
So here is what I have so far. There are alot of parts on order and I am lucky enough to have a good friend to let me use his MIG welder that has Argon purge. Please keep in mind that this is a work in progress!!! Thanks, enjoy the pictures!
The good:
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