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Discussion Starter #1
Have a 2006 Ford Focus and there's no air blowing at all through the vents or any other position. You can feel that it either cold or hot depending on the setting but it just won't blow on any speed. Before this happened it would only blow on one and three. Obviously Summer's almost here and it's getting a little warm so just needs suggestions on what the issue could be.
 

w/ my magic bag
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Welcome to FF....Check your blower resitor behind the glove box.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I will do that. Is there something specific to check for the resistor? And I did listen to the blower though and it sounds pretty sickly when it does kick on at 1 and 3 but it doesn't stay on for more than a few seconds and then it shuts off. Could the resistor cause the blower motor to sound that bad? Or could it just be both need to be replaced?
 

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Sounds like the blower is seizing. If it's the original, it's probably due for a replacement. The resistor is a cheap enough part, so you might want to do it at the same time as save doing it later. Usually it'll look burnt if it's no good.

Easy DIY, generally. Remove the glovebox for access.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I replaced both, however it did not resolve the issue of it blowing on only certain speeds. 馃馃馃 But I do have air blowing again. 馃榾馃榿馃榿
 

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I replaced both, however it did not resolve the issue of it blowing on only certain speeds. 馃馃馃 But I do have air blowing again. 馃榾馃榿馃榿
If the blower does not run on 4/HI then it can only be the motor or the switch. Since the blower works on some speeds then it must be the switch.

Attached 2005 diagram - I believe they are the same 2001-2007

Paul
 

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Captain TMI
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Dang too late, sorry BG.

Blower issues diagnosis:

1) Blows on 4 only = bad resistor.
2) Some speeds work but not others, excepting situation (1)= bad switch.
3) No speeds work= check fan motor resistance between fan leads should have no resistance, .01, or .1 ohms on electronic meters the same reading you get touching the leads to each other. If there is resistance or open line between the leads, then motor is bad. If the motor is not bad, you can also remove it and bench test it to verify operation, or test it with jumpers to the battery while in place, then it must be the blower control switch or a fuse. There are situations where the motor can blow the fuse like if the fan blades were stopped by obstructions, or if the fan motor shorts prior to the windings. These are rare but possible. A bench test or removal of the motor will reveal what an electrical tester can't.

Your problem was most definitely the switch. Sorry.
 

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Sorry - I should have included this in my earlier post. You can verify 100 percent that its the switch by jumpering (paperclip, etc) at the switch connector C2265 (pinout below):

Pin 2 to pin 1 - LO
Pin 2 to Pin 3 - Med LO
Pin 2 to Pin 5 - Med HI
Pin 2 to Pin 6 - HI

Good luck
Paul
 

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I think I have a faulty fan switch as well, can anyone describe how to remove the HVAC control cover to get at the switch? Or perhaps a video link. I'm think you probably just carefully pry the cover from the corners, but it's nice to hear it from someone who's already done this before.
 

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Sorry - I should have included this in my earlier post. You can verify 100 percent that its the switch by jumpering (paperclip, etc) at the switch connector C2265 (pinout below):

Pin 2 to pin 1 - LO
Pin 2 to Pin 3 - Med LO
Pin 2 to Pin 5 - Med HI
Pin 2 to Pin 6 - HI

Good luck
Paul
Thanks for the diagrams etc, it helped fix the problem on my 2005 Focus

In case anyone runs into a similar problem, I'll let you know what my issues was, as it wasn't the usuall resistor.

Symptoms: Blower Fan & A/C light did not function in speeds 1 or 2, but work fin on speed 3 & 4.

At first I thought it was the resistor, I changed it, nothing changed.

I then bought a Blower Fan Switch & changed that out & that fixed the problem.
I probably should of did a better diagnosis, (rather than just throw parts are it) but at first I was unsure how to remove the HVAC bezel to get at the switch so I went with the easy route by trying a new resistor. I later found out the switch was very easy to access by gently prying the HVAC bezel with a trim tool or putty knife.

The hardest part was just unplugging the harness from the old switch as Pin# 3 showed signs of being over heated (Slight melting a base of pin). It took a fair but of force, but I managed to remove the plug without doing any damage.

The new switch seemd to fix the issue, however I'm a bit concerned why the switch showed sins of being over heated. The fan blower seems to work fine, so I hope I didn't miss something that may cause the switch to over heat agan down the road.

Cheers
 
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