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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Went to AutoZone today and purchased rear brakes.

I was given these.


Something doesn't seam right here.

Alldata shows this for the back brakes.


I suppose I should go back and get the correct brakes.

But seeing as I cannot remove the drum yet I haven't been able to see inside to know for sure.
I see that it tells me to loosen barking brake adjustment at the pull handle inside the car and I have done that. Tried pulling the drum off but it doesn't move. It is free as I can wiggle it and the drum turns freely.

I watched this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RPBl1y1trOM

Looks like it would be the same but doesn't go as he shows. :( Am I not pulling hard enough on the drum?
 

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Vince your Moderator
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Remember, the rear spindle nut MUST be torqued to 173 ft.lbs.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
torque torque torque.. god I hope a good one doesn't cost to much $$$..
 

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Vince your Moderator
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Timken and SKF are the bearings to have the turdalast ones will not last in the long run.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Bearings?
 

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Vince your Moderator
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Yes.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You've lost me. Thread about brakes. You come in with torque and bearing suggestions. Are you saying I should replace my rear spindle bearings with one of the brands bearings you've mentioned?
 

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Vince your Moderator
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That works but, when you need bearings those are the ones.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Lol man you're crazy.

I hope it works but I have my doubts as I can see that the drum is free of the spindle. Least it appears to be from what I can see.
 

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Humphrey, I'm as puzzled as you are by the replies to this thread.

It looks like the parts store sold you brake pads assuming you have disc brakes in the rear, but you actually have drums and will need to return these for brake shoes. I can tell you, I had a hell of a time repairing the rear brakes on my 2005. The drums were hell to get off. They were worn and had a ridge that I had to pull over the shoes, and the puller I was using was for a larger vehicle, so that didn't help. Miraculously, the bearings survived and I reused the drums as-were. I was broke at the time. I replaced brake shoes only, reusing the spindles, hardware, and everything.

One problem I ran into was seized slack adjusters. I had to close them in a vice and free them with an acetylene torch -- not something I have at home. Since then they've been fine, but be prepared to fight with those. I did the rear brakes around 140,000 miles and I don't think they had ever been touched. If you have money, replace the drums and bearings, too. Mine need to come off soon because they've rotted too thin, which is a shame because the brake linings are still okay. As someone suggested, it's best to buy drums without bearings already pressed in because they won't be good bearings. Just get drums, buy good quality Timken bearings, and have them pressed in for a few bucks each.

Toby
 

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Adding to what Toby said...

After installing new shoes, the (slack) Auto Adjuster will often prevent you from sliding-on the drum. The auto adjuster can be easily adjusted ONLY AFTER you figure out how to do it. Carefully pushing/prying on the half-moon shaped toothed gear wheel using a small screwdriver will allow you to figure it out. The trick is finding the right angle to make it move; while not using lots of force. Once the auto adjuster is manually adjusted into the proper position, the drum will slide on.

Pulling the drum off can often be a problem because the shoes are hanging-up on the drum. Before pulling the drum off, you do not have access to the auto adjuster, so you are kinda stuck... and need to use different mallet-tapping and prying techniques to get the drum off.

 

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Discussion Starter #13
Happy happy joy joy.

Thanks for the replies gents. Ill be returning these brakes for the correct ones and will post later on the out come.

Money is/nt an issue right now but I am going to use the old hardware for now.
 

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Moved to Brakes, Suspension & Chassis.

FWIW - I've replaced lots of rear shoes without new hdwe., then I learned that a hdwe. kit with new springs/clips etc. was usually only a few dollars (does both sides) and stopped doing that whenever a kit was avail.. Enough of a PITA to do that getting along with hdwe. that might not do the job wasn't worth it.

Freemind likes to emphasize torquing the bearings right after seeing many comments here on problems resulting from not doing so. There are plenty of other possible hints, that one is most often ignored.

Torque wrench can be rented/borrowed from many parts stores, worth the hassle of an extra trip to return it if you don't have one available.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Should have specified that id be using old spindle and drum. just checked the price of parking brake kit which has the springs etc is pretty cheap and ill get it.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Okay so here is what I got.
 

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That looks like it'll get you a LOT further than what they handed you the first time....
 

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Discussion Starter #18
And here we are..

Drum Off... Finally.


Old stuff removed..


initial clean and wire brush, whipped out some of that dust with paper towel.


New brakes and hardware in. Not pictured is the 6 spots that needed some grease. I took all this back off and did that later.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Noticed that my rear sounded funny (lol) and it was the back brakes. Seems the auto adjusters are working as I had to loosen up the parking brake adjustment screw. Turning freely again.
 

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Curious, why did you remove the drum by taking it off the spindle? When I've pull my cover to look at how much is left on the pads, I undid the 4 bolts and took the whole drum and spindle off as one piece. What's the advantage or reason for doing it this way?
 
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