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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys its been a while since I have had an SVT but damn it feels good to own one again! I just picked up this 2004 EAP with 151k miles a few days ago. Its a 2 owner car and is bone stock which I love. The trans went out recently so the PO (very capable) replaced the trans wit ha 30k mile unit along with a new clutch, slave cylinder a few months ago. I have only driven the car maybe 25 miles since I got. IT runs fantastic but I noticed a small oil leak. I finally got it in the air today to find oil leaking from where the trans and motor meets. Unfortunately I think this is a rear main seal leak but wanted to know some more opinions. Any other possibilities? I have inspected it top to bottom and everything else looks good aside from a blown out passenger CV axle boot. I wanted to also find out if I can have this axle rebuilt instead of buying a crap aftermarket that wobbles like hell. Thanks in advance for the help and glad to finally be back to FF!


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Make sure that leak is oil and not coolant, it sure looks like antifreeze there. The typical stat housing fail these do so much commonly leaks right over the engine/trans split point to look like an oil leak.
 

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You can rebuild the CV axle. Although I’ve never done it, it looks like a job that’s feasible for most weekend mechanics. There are lots of YouTube videos and Internet info on rebuilding them.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You can rebuild the CV axle. Although I’ve never done it, it looks like a job that’s feasible for most weekend mechanics. There are lots of YouTube videos and Internet info on rebuilding them.
I rebuilt one in a CRV I had and it turned out so much better than the cheapo one I got from a local parts store. It was messy but worth it. I was hoping folks would have more input on the oil leak.

Sean
 

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Hi, new here and just (today) discovered the same problem on my '02 SVT that I bought a week ago. It is motor oil in my case as well.

Very interested to see replies on this.
 

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You can rebuild a FWD axle IF you can find parts for it, I used to do them from time to time. There is no way for you to recut the ball arcs in the rzeppa joint hub though, the rebuilders weld them up and regrind them to the correct size and arc. Boots used to be everywhere but hard to find now. Split type boots are a waste of time, don't bother unless it is a full boot.

Compare the oil drip to the trans fluid to figure out which one and trans comes out if rear main leak and flywheel comes off. Do NOT remove the seal holder, or you can make new part leak again, they are concentrically centered to crank to keep seal contacting equally all the way around. The seal itself is not in as tight as you think, you can install new one by simply pressing in with your fingers. Tapping in with something like old school seals can ruin it instantly. BTDT on late Contour zetec, exact same engine.
 

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Need to make sure thats not trans oil , the slave they send out now they stopped putting the o-ring on them and if you dont know or done check you will get a trans oil leak at the slave Cyl and it will look and act like a oil leak

Also rub around above the leak and make sure its not coming down from above

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Figured out the upper oil pan gasket is the culprit here. Having it repaired as we speak and will report back with hopefully good news. Mechanic is also going to regrease and re-boot the axle, install new shocks/struts and motor mounts while its in there.

Sean
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Update here guys. Well, after taking the car to a mechanic to have the upper pan gasket done, its still leaking a healthy amount of oil after its warmed up. I am not driving it and going crazy because I just want this fixed. Any ideas? Should I just have the motor rebuilt at this point?
 

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Is the mechanic giving you any troubleshooting assistance or is he just replacing the parts you’re telling him to replace?
 

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Looks exactly like the rear main seal leak I had on my 2004 SVT with 158K. PO had a clutch installed at a shop at 150k and also had them do the rear main but they must have done it wrong because when I pulled it out it was missing some of the seal.
 

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The mistake most make is removing the seal housing. If you don't have the alignment tool that comes with the ford seal the housing will be off center and leak.
 

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The seal is barely in there, you can hook it and pull it out easily. Even weirder, they simply push back in place by hand if you are careful. Except for some replacement parts which still have a light pressfit like most seals. If the outside diameter is ribbed silicone rather than steel sleeve it is one that goes in by hand.

Do NOT remove the seal holder part like said.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
This is all great info thanks guys. The car is going into a very reputable shop to get inspection in attempt to figure out what the culprit is. I will keep you all updated.

Sean
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The shop has inspected and confirmed that the slave cylinder is the culprit. The steering rack is also leaking...is this rebuild-able with new o-rings and seals or will I have to source another rack?

Sean
 

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I have rebuilt a steering rack on a miata and can say you should just by a new rack. Not worth the hassle.
 

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To chime in on Tom's comment, if the PO didn't transfer the o-ring from the old slave to the new that's a good place to look at. I had the same problem when my new slave showed up without an o-ring.
 
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