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Discussion Starter #1
Hello I'm in the middle of my diy style turbo conversion on my zetec and as I'm getting close to end I'm wondering if what I'm using will work ok or not. I've researched as much as possible before this but still want clarification if anyone can help. I built my own turbo manifold and using a TD04HL-14T turbo setup as a top mount. I clocked turbo and deleted internal wastegate.. I have a Tial ext. wg on the way with a 14psi spring. I plan on keeping engine stock for now and ordered OE head gasket and timing kit thru my work. I have 2.5" intercooler piping with EB Mustang IC, then up to 3" beforeTB for MAF housing. I have a slot type MAF from 11 F150 5.0 that I really want to use but haven't found anyone using one on a zetec focus yet to know it will work. I haven't researched throttle bodies much but by looking at factory bore it looks like I should be going bigger. Lastly, if my car is EEC-V will I need a chip in my PCM, or does my PCM have FEPROM to have my tune uploaded thru an XCal4? this is where I'm hoping the Pro Tom can help me.
TIA.. this forum has been awesome to me over the last few years ?
Paul
 

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Use the stock type MAF , the slot isnt better

I dont see a spot for your waste gate ?

What Injectors are you running ?

You doing a blow through MAF ?

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The wastegate is in shipping.. it will have a 38mm vband welded to bottom of turbo manifold.
I planned on going blow thru for MAF just before throttle body in 3 inch housing, I ordered a slot/card type weld on flange, will it still be possible with that MAF or will I need to change to factory style MAF 3 inch housing?
I have Siemens 60lb injectors on the way.
 

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... and buy a MAFia. I went slot type because of researching and read that the card type worked well on cold side of charge pipe in a 3 inch housing it could read the higher amount of Hertz. I'm only a Ford tech and just getting into the tuning now and there isn't alot of help advice in my area.
 

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Thats incorrect they both have the same range 0-5 volts , unless you have it all welded and everything ordered I would stick with the stock MAF type

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
okay I haven't welded the flange on yet so I will go with oe MAF setup like you're saying. So I will need a MAFia and also should I be using a 3 inch oe style MAF housing?
 

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Yes I would go 2.5 piping to the 3 inch MAF then back to 2.5 piping and I would do it blow through

There is some nice 3 inch billet MAF for 90.00 on ebay unless you can make your own

Tom
 

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Update on my build.. I have completed aside from finishing the rest of the exhaust system. I do have my wideband lambda sensor installed. Car starts up well, eventually had a nice sounding idle, but is running very rich. On to the tuning, I'm hoping Tom can tune it. Should I be contacting Tom through here or focus-power? I downloaded the required programs needed through their website. Wondering if the X4 will connect to my laptop via usb, I have a few printer usb cables laying around. Also, do I need to connect my wideband to my laptop somehow for remote tuning? Trying to have everything ready to roll.
 

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Do you have any particular power goal or power curve you're looking for? Reason for asking is the 14t is kind of an odd ball, at least in regards to the compressor wheel. I build turbos and size them for apps so im just wondering.

There's no map readily available for the 14T. it was mainly a limited use OEM turbo and MHI didn't feel the need to throw it on a gas stand and generate a map. At least for public consumption.

To give you an idea of what to expect, using the TD04H 13T map as a rough baseline (13T does have larger compreesor wheel)

13T
Inducer: 40.7 mm
Exducer: 56 mm
14T
Inducer: 39.60 mm
Exducer: 51.00 mm

The 13T has a maximum flow rate of roughly 360CFM or 24.84lb/min at a pressure ratio of 2.0. So roughly 250hp at 14-15psi. Its peak efficiency is 76% and at a 2.0PR that ends at roughly 275CFM or 19lb/min or 190hp. Keep in mind these are ratings at the flywheel.

What will help is you have the larger HL turbine wheel, now by larger I mean it has a 1.4mm larger inducer

TD04HL: 45.6mm exducer, 52.0mm inducer

So you've definitely got a decently sized turbine wheel for the application, it all comes down to what CM size the turbine housing is.

Given what I know you should expect to see around 190-200whp maybe a tad more, at what rpm I cannot say for sure, too many variables there. So it will come on quick and have decent midrange but expect a fair amount of top end loss. If you want more you can always swap a 19T compresor wheel on it. They support around 325hp with the HL turbine wheel and its as easy as purchasing a wheel and housing which they make as a billet wheel with better aerodynamics and they utilize extended tips.

I would personally find a lower spring rate to start. You're not really sure how its gonna perform at 14psi and with a stock headgasket and headbolts you could be playing with fire (lifting the head for starters). Also I wouldn't run that turbo much past 14psi regardless as it becomes nothing more than a heat pump. Compressor efficiency drops and compressor outlet temps skyrocket so the power gains per psi after that point are purely speculative.

Which TiAL are you using? The older 35/38mm F series or a newer mvr/mvs? I would recommend an 8psi spring and a good boost controller, start small and work your way up. Its safer thay way and ultimately easier to tune. Plus if you ever get a tank of bad fuel or an extreme weather change (very cold or very hot) you have a safety net where you can reduce boost pressure to preserve engine health. Running an external on this application is a bit overkill IMO especially on a log manifold and small turbo/low power use. The internal is sufficient in maintaining boost pressures with no issue given its port and flapper size (you can port the opening a bit to increase its flow rate). If you run into boost control issues I wouldn't waste the time to tweak the external. I'd go back internal and use an aftermarket actuator with interchangeable springs. They can be sourced fairly easily and are cost effective but if the external works then hey, roll with it (just my. 02 lol)

If you're still on a stock clutch I'd change that very soon. Any dramatic increase in torque over stock and it'll smoke the friction material before you use up your first tank of fuel.

In regards to your wideband it should have a 0-5v output wire for data logging purposes. Theres no way to connect it directly to your laptop. IIRC the X4 does have 2 analog inputs for this exact reason, simply connect that reference output from your wideband to one of those inputs, configure it in the programmer (specific values for voltage output vs lambda reading should be in your wideband user manual as i doubt the X4 has a preset selection) and you should be able to datalog no problem, just use the SCT live link software on your laptop to view the logs. And yes the tuner connects via USB, should just be a standard micro USB cable.

Sorry for the super long post, just trying to help out as best I can 😂
 

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Update on my build.. I have completed aside from finishing the rest of the exhaust system. I do have my wideband lambda sensor installed. Car starts up well, eventually had a nice sounding idle, but is running very rich. On to the tuning, I'm hoping Tom can tune it. Should I be contacting Tom through here or focus-power? I downloaded the required programs needed through their website. Wondering if the X4 will connect to my laptop via usb, I have a few printer usb cables laying around. Also, do I need to connect my wideband to my laptop somehow for remote tuning? Trying to have everything ready to roll.
You can PM me here
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Call me 704 249 3745 , Cell 980 318 3377

Tom
 
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