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Discussion Starter #1
I now realize I blew out the EGR valve diaphragm when cleaning out the intake/EGR piping of valve seat debris. I initially tried disabling EGR & fooling the sensor - made the EGR code go away but a lean code came back. I have a new EGR valve in hand now. Going to have to keep the piece leading to the exhaust manifold attached and remove that when the EGR & that pipe are off the car (tried with 1 1/16" wrench but it slipped off the flats). Now I'm trying to loosen the two 10mm bolts- only can really get on it with a short extension and stubby ratchet.. but can't break them loose. Any suggestions? I really don't want to pull the intake manifold just for this. Once I get the bolts figured out, will the coil pack or thermostat housing have to be removed? Thanks for any thoughts. I did try searching but didn't find much.
 

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DTC P0606
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There really are no tips. Because it's related to the exhaust system, corrosion of the fasteners is going to be the biggest problem. Use lots of penetrating oil. It's sometimes easier to remove the whole EGR pipe and get it on the bench before you tackle the large EGR valve bottom nut, otherwise you end up damaging the EGR piping. (It'll crimp and twist.) That creates it's own set of problems though; You need to loosen the exhaust manifold fastener. That's easier to get to from under the car and some people here have said dropping the rad helps to create clearance. You need as much leverage as possible. GL
 

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Discussion Starter #3
There really are no tips. Because it's related to the exhaust system, corrosion of the fasteners is going to be the biggest problem. Use lots of penetrating oil. It's sometimes easier to remove the whole EGR pipe and get it on the bench before you tackle the large EGR valve bottom nut, otherwise you end up damaging the EGR piping. (It'll crimp and twist.) That creates it's own set of problems though; You need to loosen the exhaust manifold fastener. That's easier to get to from under the car and some people here have said dropping the rad helps to create clearance. You need as much leverage as possible. GL
Thanks for the help. On this car, the exhaust connection is two nuts studs that have been apart recently so will come apart with no issue. Agreed I should go after the big nut to pipe off the car.. then I can use heat and whatever is necessary. I just have to figure out how to get enough torque on those two 10mm bolts in the tight confines back there.
 

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DTC P0606
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Sometimes a universal joint socket extension with a straight 6" or 12" extension (to give the ratchet clearance) can help you apply the proper torque at the right angle. Those bolts should only be torqued to 20 ft-lbs.
Also - perhaps counter intuitively - tightening bolts a little can sometimes help "break" any seized threads before you back them out.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Done

Thanks again BC_ZX3. Plenty of room once you get the airbox out of the way. One of the two 10mm headed bolts was just too tight/tough. It came out a few threads and then snapped. The other thing I was fighting against initially is that I foolishly assumed the bolts were exactly perpendicular to the car- not quite. I put it back with one bolt on the egr- there was a good amount of stud left from the broken bolt to help locate. There was no way I was getting the bung out of the egr myself with just a propane hand torch. Guy in a shop heated the Egr cherry red and got it off for me. On my egr pipe, there is not connection down to the cat. Bung to the egr, flange with two studs/nuts to the exh. manifold.
 
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