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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thought I got lucky on a closeout deal for some Moog springs, but the ones I got are 9 coils, and so long it looks like the control arm would be darn near vertical to get them in without compressing, and they'd bottom out not much below my current (low, but not that awful) ride height.

Not sure if it's a mislabeled box or if I just got the wrong part number. Cheap enough to eat it if it was my bad for not triple checking the number, but can anyone tell me the right Moog PN for this car?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
And I guess while I'm under there, anybody tried using a slam hammer on the trailing arm outer bolt? Inner came out just fine, outer turns, but I can't get straight in the back side to drive it out with a punch.

Aw hell, might as well redo the sway bar end links I just did maybe 18mo ago that now look worse than the originals. Recommendations on those, and how tight should they actually be?
 

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can anyone tell me the right Moog PN for this car?
Moog catalog shows 2 pns for rear springs: 80099 and 80135. RA catalogs shows the same. Both springs show for 2000-2004 Focus. Specs are similar but it looks like 80099 is slightly softer. Moog spec says they should be a little over 14 inches free length, 4.25 inches OD, and .43 inch wire diameter. What do the ones you have measure?

For reference here is a picture of the rear spring from my 2005 ZX4 which is essentially similar to the 00-04 spring (slightly larger .45 inch wire diameter but same free length and OD). The lower control arm was a 'little' rotted but the spring was fine and I reused it with the new arm.


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Paul
 
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And I guess while I'm under there, anybody tried using a slam hammer on the trailing arm outer bolt? Inner came out just fine, outer turns, but I can't get straight in the back side to drive it out with a punch.
Trailing arm or lower control arm? (which are two different things). Trailing arm is 2. LCA is 5.

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Trailing arm or lower control arm? (which are two different things). Trailing arm is 2. LCA is 5.
Uh 4. Thing's got a different name from every manufacturer, rear forward lower, trailing, lateral, etc. At this point, I check the pictures more than the names when buying.

Can't get at the nut end directly due to part of the knuckle being in the way, but it looks like I might be able to get the right slide hammer attachment on the head and beat it out that way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Moog catalog shows 2 pns for rear springs: 80099 and 80135. RA catalogs shows the same. Both springs show for 2000-2004 Focus.
OK, I got 80135s, but what's on there only has six coils, and looks way shorter even with the suspension completely unloaded. As in the Moog looks like it'll have to be compressed a lot just to get everything back together.

I'll yank the wheel back off sometime this weekend and get some photos. I suppose it's possible I'm not on stock suspension anymore, but it seems unlikely from the previous owner. (Maybe they weren't first, though: I didn't bother asking since the car was $600 running.) I hsve replacements for all three arms, and they look the same, but of course I can't really measure things out until I get the old ones out.
 

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OK, I got 80135s, but what's on there only has six coils, and looks way shorter even with the suspension completely unloaded. As in the Moog looks like it'll have to be compressed a lot just to get everything back together.
If you unbolt everything from the lower control arm and let it hang free you will have enough room to install the spring and jack up the control arm high enough to bolt everything back up.
 

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If you unbolt everything from the lower control arm and let it hang free you will have enough room to install the spring and jack up the control arm high enough to bolt everything back up.
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OK, I got 80135s, but what's on there only has six coils, and looks way shorter even with the suspension completely unloaded. As in the Moog looks like it'll have to be compressed a lot just to get everything back together.
What is the free length of the Moogs you bought?

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
What is the free length of the Moogs you bought?
Just a hair over 14". Didn't have the tape handy while I had the car up, but I held one up to the installed spring and it looked close to double the length.

So I guess the next question is how high the car needs to be to get that done. I'm at the third position (second notch) on some cheap WalMart jack stands, and that's about as high as I'm comfortable taking it with the jack I have working, and IIRC, pretty much the limit of my floor jack that's more likely to get replaced altogether than get the new seals it needs at this point.
 

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Just a hair over 14". Didn't have the tape handy while I had the car up, but I held one up to the installed spring and it looked close to double the length.

So I guess the next question is how high the car needs to be to get that done. I'm at the third position (second notch) on some cheap WalMart jack stands, and that's about as high as I'm comfortable taking it with the jack I have working, and IIRC, pretty much the limit of my floor jack that's more likely to get replaced altogether than get the new seals it needs at this point.
As I stated previously the spec on a stock spring free length is just over 14 inches so I believe you have the correct springs. Installed length should be 9 inches. You can see from my pics how high I had my car.

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Just a hair over 14". Didn't have the tape handy while I had the car up, but I held one up to the installed spring and it looked close to double the length.

So I guess the next question is how high the car needs to be to get that done. I'm at the third position (second notch) on some cheap WalMart jack stands, and that's about as high as I'm comfortable taking it with the jack I have working, and IIRC, pretty much the limit of my floor jack that's more likely to get replaced altogether than get the new seals it needs at this point.
That is high enough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks to whatever idiots thought 12 point sockets even had some excuse for existing, the bolt head for the lower control arm is now even more round than Ford's standard melted butter impressionist sculpture of a hex-like form. Looking around town to correct my tool bag, three different places only sell regular sets in 12 point. Six point in deep, but of course that comes with the problem of the wrench head being unnecessarily far back from the bolt, levering the socket sideways.

Adding to the stupidity, every extractor set OReilly and AutoZone have in stock locally lacks a 15mm. I can't see 9/16 or 5/8 working well, since 15 is pretty much dead center between them. Not a "gee, we sold out of the useful sets" issue either: I remember having the same problem trying to find one for a previous car, and every set skipped very common sizes.

Anybody got the specs on that bolt?
 

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Thanks to whatever idiots thought 12 point sockets even had some excuse for existing, the bolt head for the lower control arm is now even more round than Ford's standard melted butter impressionist sculpture of a hex-like form. Looking around town to correct my tool bag, three different places only sell regular sets in 12 point. Six point in deep, but of course that comes with the problem of the wrench head being unnecessarily far back from the bolt, levering the socket sideways.

Adding to the stupidity, every extractor set OReilly and AutoZone have in stock locally lacks a 15mm. I can't see 9/16 or 5/8 working well, since 15 is pretty much dead center between them. Not a "gee, we sold out of the useful sets" issue either: I remember having the same problem trying to find one for a previous car, and every set skipped very common sizes.

Anybody got the specs on that bolt?
Can you be more specific of what bolt you are working on?

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Paul
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Can you be more specific of what bolt you are working on?

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2, I think. The big control arm to the knuckle. Got all three arms for both sides, and ordered some Moog bushings for the sway bar end links that should be here by the time my bolt extractor set shows up next week.

Should have been a clue when I had to tighten the end links after a few months to get the middle part to quit rattling around. The bushings are still under two years old and actually look worse than the ones they replaced, which may well have been original.

I'm guessing the lateral arm isn't supposed to sit like this. Doesn't look like anything's bent, so I'm guessing it's mostly down to old bushings and springs.

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As for the springs, comparing on the other side looks probably manageable. Just seems odd to have way more coils on the replacement. Am I going to end up looking downhill until I get around to doing struts and front springs?
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That lower control arm always sits like that.

Keep in mind that all the bolts that go thru the control arms and into the trailing arm (rear knuckle) go into nuts that are welded (captivated) to the trailing arm. Also those bolts/nuts all have locktite on them from the factory so you need to heat them up really hot before you try to remove them.

The bolt that attaches the outboard end of the rear lower arm (large arm with spring) is Ford W500746S439 (M12 x 75)

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I gotta remember to try the torch on everything first. At least last time I did remember to soak everything with Sea Foam Deep Creep the day before, but I doubt that does anything at all to loctite.

Got the elusive 15mm extractor and my Moog sway bar end links in, so I think that's the final part for this round. Just need to find some time to do the work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Well, of course the bolt is seized into the bushing so hard even my best Tonya Harding Special and a pin punch couldn't get it to budge. New bolt should come in Monday, and then I get the fun of figuring out how to cut the old one out without damaging the knuckle.

Driver side went smooth, though. Looks like I gave up 1/4 of the way through putting a 3" lift kit on. Hopefully all the gnawing, prying and bashing didn't leave anything in a too-unsafe condition for the drive to work and the parts counter Monday.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Ok, in case I trash it cutting the bolt, what else is the knuckle/trailing arm called? Looking online for "rear knuckle" or "trailing arm" finds literally everything else except that part. I could literally build out the complete four wheel suspension from hits on those searches, except for that part.

Oh wait, I take that back: I've also not found the rubber bump stop that goes on the rear LCA. Nothing wrong with mine now, but why the hell is that part impossible to buy? It's nerve wracking trying to get it off knowing that if it's damaged the only option for replacement is wandering around the local scrapyard hoping they've gotten a compatible Focus since last time I looked, and then having to spend the time there to pull the darn thing. (No doubt after dealing with an equally seized bolt but without the benefit of having electricity nearby.) Though FWIW, some Deep Creep and a pickle fork took the left one off quick and easy.
 
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