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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, been having a problem for a couple weeks, it started out of no where after the car had sat all weekend, then I went to start the car and it wouldn't start, and it made a noise like the firing order was off, I replaced the spark plugs since they are old and the car started but really rough, and I would have to keep the throttle at full to keep it running, and after a couple miles it's like a flick of the switch and takes off like a rocket and will run perfect until the next day when I go to work.

I am running a header with egr delete, and only the upstream O2 sensor. So I get cel's for those but now one showed up P1132 I think it was, I use torquePro for my scan tool and it said lack of O2 sensor, running rich.

So I bought a new upstream O2 sensor and it started right up and seemed great, until after work, in the -20 weather here in wisconsin, it did the usual, run like crap for a couple miles then take off like a rocket. I also noticed the lights were dim during the period it ran rough, then when it takes off everything returns to normal.

I have also cleaned the MAF, and checked for vacuum leaks and found none. Fuel pressure indicated by scan tool is 39.6 at idle.

I replaced timing belt a year ago when I swapped the engine in, also has new pcv valve, water pump, thermostat and housing, serpentine belt, tensioner, throttle body gasket. I've been running full synthetic since I put the engine in, and all fluids are normal level.

Some ideas on my to-do list are clean the IAC valve and check the TPS. I just wanted to see if anyone had any other ideas to check. Thanks.
 

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FF's Night Security
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Coil pack plug connector. They tend to get pulled out and break causing misfires and poor running. Being that the problem clears up all of a sudden would suggest to me a loose connection on something and that would be my first guess would be the coil pack plug since it is a common problem on the first gen focus.
 

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Vince your Moderator
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^This

You are looking for cracked and/or pulled wires. Also, pull the coil and look all around it for any cracks. Have you pulled and inspected the plugs and tested the plug wires for resistance?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'll check it out later today. I haven't checked the plugs since I put them in but I know I've been getting about 15mpg, and I tried swapping an extra set of plug wires and it didn't help.

I know my coil connector is missing the metal spring that locks the connector. But it's a pretty tight fit and has been fine for a year now. I've unplugged it several times looking around at things. I didn't notice any bad wires in the engine bay, but i also remember a couple weeks ago I cleaned a mouse nest out of my glove box. So I will also check the wiring by the ECU.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I was just thinking. What about the coolant temp sensor? It seemed normal on my scan tool, but it kind of fits into the drive a couple mile and things warm up idea. My temp gauge on the car hasn't really moved above the first line of the middle bracket on the gauge, since it been so cold since November.

Update: I checked coil and it seemed fine, also should add the car revs fine in park, so just under a load it won't rev unless I hold the throttle down for a while then it takes off, and then after a couple miles it starts running better throughout the whole rpm range
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Well today I unplugged the MAF while I took off the intake tube to look around and then when I put it together it ran perfect.

**update next start I did it ran like crap.

Another update, so this morning when I unplugged the MAF and looked around and then put it back together, it started great and ran great and I drove 4 miles into town to meet my wife and son for checkup, met at her work (daycare) and we took her vehicle to hospital

When I got back, car started ok, but had acceleration issues, not as bad as usual, but it cleared up at full throttle. I stopped by hardware store and was inside for about 5 minutes, came out and started car, and left everything was perfect.

Left or work at 4 and it idles ok, but still has trouble accelerating unless full throttle.

All this has me believing it's the MAF connector/sensor itself. At full throttle the computer doesn't use the MAF right? Which would be why it clears up? The MAF harness looks ok, but I did wiggle it once while running and I think it might of made it run better.

So definitely this weekend since it's gonna be 36 degrees, I'll run to junkyard and get a couple MAF connectors and maybe another MAF.

At idle right now the MAF rate according to scan tool bounces between 3.85g/s -5.09g/s

O2 sensor upstream is at 0.14V which is higher then what it was this morning, about .08 at idle. That is the bank 1 sensor 1 O2 which is upstream right?

Fuel trim, short term bank 1 is at 0%, same as Long term.

Fuel flow rate at idle is 1.41 Liters/hr

39 -40 psi

Engine load is at 41.96-43% at idle

Only CEL is the P1132
 

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Only CEL is the P1132
Follow the code or you will be guessin and throwing every sensor at it until your wallet is drained.

P1132 does NOT mean the upstream O2 is bad - just that the sensor is no longer 'switching' because the system is too lean. Common issues are vacuum leaks or EGR valve sticking.

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok, I did a lot of research on those numbers I posted. It seems the MAF is fine.
What I don't understand is in my freeze frame data, STFT is at 17% which is correct, it's adding fuel to compensate for the excess oxygen. But why isn't it going above 17%? Ive read cars running up to 25% and if mine is at 17% why is my O2 sensor not switching?

I don't have an egr on this car anymore, I've triple checked the vacuum lines. I will do a compression check today, and possibly fuel filter.

And look over these possible causes

Air Induction System Leak
Injector Blockage
Mass Air Flow Meter
Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
Fuel Pressure
Gas Leakage from the Exhaust System
Open or Short in the Oxygen Sensor or associated wiring
Oxygen Sensor Defective
Engine Control Unit


Thanks for help so far guys.
 

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As I understand it, Your upstream O2 sensor should be constantly switching from lean to rich, use LIVE data view to confirm this. If it is not then I would think the O2 sensor would be bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Just finished a compression test
Cylinder 1: 60
Cylinder 2: 200
Cylinder 3: 195
Cylinder 4: 195

I added some oil to #1 and it went up to about 70 psi

I was using a brand new craftsman test gauge. Cylinder 1 spark plug was brown but had some wetness to it. The other 3 were perfect color.
 

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Oh, that's not nice to see.

Try a "wet" test with a little bit of oil in the cyl. to see what those results are first.

No change from that, it's time to try the "Italian Tune Up" of some hard driving with hard accel./high revs and maybe even a "seafoam" type treatment just in case there's some carbon holding a valve partially open.

Can't hurt to try, the only other test would be a leakdown to confirm where it's leaking - the "wet" test is to determine if it's piston/rings or valves so some of that would be covered.

See if it's better after that.
 

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Check spark for that cyl. as well, it could carbon up if that one hasn't been firing well.

(going for every check possible short of tearing into it first)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well I've been driving her harder since this problem started, since the car would only get going when I had it at full throttle.

My compression tester kit did come with the adapter for the air test, so I'll do that tonight
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Finished the leak test, air is blowing right through the intake.

It's definitely not cam timing as the other cylinders would have bad compression too.

A leaking intake valve also explains the lean running condition.

I've never had a valve job done before, can anyone give me some advice before I call around?

I would only need a valve job done on that cylinder right? Can I bring my head to the machinist with the cams in and have them disassemble and reassemble and check clearances?
 

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Regarding the repair, well you need to pull the head and inspect. It could be a broken intake spring, a lodged foreign object, etc. Depending on what you see determines what the required repair is. While yes it appears that just one cylinder has failed, you don't want to go cheap on the repair just to have a head problem with a different cylinder in 5,000 miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yes intake valve. I called my local carquest machine shop and it will be $252 for cleaning, milling the head, valve job ($8per valve x 16), and that price includes disassembly an reassembly of the cams. And there could be a bent valve or something I'm sure.

And then a gasket set and new head bolts will probably be $150 if I buy it from rock auto.

Now just gotta figure out how I'll get to work while this is getting fixed.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
So I finally took the head off, I found damage on the #1 piston and scoring on the cylinder that my finger nail catches in.



 
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