Focus Fanatics Forum banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
108 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Originally Posted by whynotthinkwhynot
There is a 13/16 or 21mm flat spot cut into the cams between cyl 1 and 2. It's easy to miss, but it's there. Use that to hold the cams still. Do not use the camshaft alignment tool to hold the cams still. Yeah, some guys might not break the back off their cams using the tool, but do you want to take that chance yourself?
I'm ready to buy the parts for this job on my daughter's '02 wagon (Zetec, I believe?). I've got a 21mm wrench to go on the cam flats. Do I also need to buy the camshaft alignment tool?

I found this thread for Zetec T-belt work.
It lists all of these extra parts:
Timing belt kit from NAPA, contains the belt, idler pulley and tensioner
Water pump
Serp belt tensioner
Serp belt idler pulley bearing, no one in town had the assemble but found the bearing.
2-O2 sensors
P-side motor mount

Her wagon has ~145k mi on it, so I'll replace the water pump at the same time. Should I do everything on the above list?

Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
158 Posts
Short answer do you need the tool Yes.

You can make the tools for like $10. Very easy 1-3 on the difficulty scale of 1-10 10 being the most difficult.

Home depot has flat stock that is what I used and a bolt for the TDC stop.

The Haynes repair book gives dimensions for the TDC bolt.



Makes the job much easier.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
108 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Paul, I appreciate the info. How long did it take you to make the tool? I have a small belt grinder & small drill press, but no power saws or tap kit.

Do you know if I should be replacing all of the parts on the list I attached?
 

·
Hatch Nation #136
Joined
·
2,043 Posts
I wouldn't mess with the O2 sensors if you aren't throwing codes. The serp belt tensioner isn't 100% needed. The motor mount will be fine if it isn't already blown. I'd do the water pump while your in there, since you've got the best access at that time. I'd also do the timing belt tensioner and idle pulley.

You can get a good price on the kit from rockauto.com. If you do a search for Rock Auto dicount codes, there is a guy that regularly posts a 5% off code, too.
 

·
FF Affiliate
Joined
·
31,095 Posts
If you know and understand engines all you need is a file and a screw driver

Remove #1 plug and get piston to TDC , drop LONG screwdriver (dial indicator works great) in plug hole so it rests on piston and slowly turn engine by crank bolt with all plugs out , make sure your at TDC by moving engine back and forth ever so slightly and screw driver shouldnt move up or down

Use file in the cams as the plate works perfect and you more then likelt have one

All things most guys have that would attempt to change a timing belt

Tom
 

·
Hatch Nation #136
Joined
·
2,043 Posts
If you know and understand engines all you need is a file and a screw driver

Remove #1 plug and get piston to TDC , drop LONG screwdriver (dial indicator works great) in plug hole so it rests on piston and slowly turn engine by crank bolt with all plugs out , make sure your at TDC by moving engine back and forth ever so slightly and screw driver shouldnt move up or down

Use file in the cams as the plate works perfect and you more then likelt have one

All things most guys have that would attempt to change a timing belt

Tom
That is exactly how I did mine, but if you have to ask, you should use the pin and bar.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
146 Posts
Look at Amazon for Gates Kit. Usually includes free shipping. The kits are about $65 including pulley, tensioner, and belt. Kit is TCK294B. I may have an extra NEW belt, pulley and tensioner (Gates). PM me if interested.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,543 Posts
Weird that you found a timing belt how-to telling you to buy accessory belt stuff, and a passenger motor mount? That's all totally peripheral to the timing belt, some of it maybe a good idea to change it but not necessary if you don't have problems. The water pump might be a good idea since you're there and it's a pain to get to, but it's driven by the accessory belt and new tension on the timing belt won't adversely effect any accessory belt stuff. I probably wouldn't worry about the water pump if I were you, my brothers 01 ZX3 has 195K on the original water pump and my moms 05 Duratec ZX3 has about 200K miles on that water pump. They last awhile. If the accessory belt looks rough, change it. As for the pulleys and O2 sensors, they're a separate deal and probably not worth involving in the timing belt change if they aren't causing issues.

You'll need a couple irregular things, the cam sprocket bolts need a Torx T55 (big) male bit and the passenger side engine mount studs that need to come out take an E10 female Torx bit. The cam holder bar needs to be 5 mm to fit into the cam slots and the timing pin needs to be 10mm diameter with 1.5 threads/mm at the shank. You should honestly just buy the timing kit from Massive speed system, you get precision machined stuff for a little over $30. I'm pretty sure the camshaft flat spots need a 24mm wrench, 21 sounds too small.

If you want I could probably lend you the Torx stuff and cam holder/timing pin for the cost of shipping, since I'm sure you're a trustworthy dude and would ship it back.

EDIT: I said 24 mm to hold cams based on a 99 escort zetec I dealt with earlier, later zetecs might well be 21mm.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
158 Posts
Thanks Paul, I appreciate the info. How long did it take you to make the tool? I have a small belt grinder & small drill press, but no power saws or tap kit.

Do you know if I should be replacing all of the parts on the list I attached?
Maybe an hour tops. You can get away with a 1/2" drill, file and a hack saw to make the pieces. You will need a tap set for the cam holding tool. This is the way the factory services these engines. There are more ways to get it done but hey if it works for them it is good enough for me. TDC bolt works like a charm. It is the way to go for the first time DIY guys.

Now if it was a race engine I would get the dial indicator and degree wheel out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
The water pump might be a good idea since you're there and it's a pain to get to, but it's driven by the accessory belt and new tension on the timing belt won't adversely effect any accessory belt stuff. I probably wouldn't worry about the water pump if I were you, my brothers 01 ZX3 has 195K on the original water pump and my moms 05 Duratec ZX3 has about 200K miles on that water pump. They last awhile.
Changing the TB at 155k on an 03 Zetec SE Wagon. Looking to get past 250k. Sounds like I should just do the water pump while in there and then not have to worry about it. Of course, there is always the "If it ain't broken, don't [neener][neener][neener][neener] with it!" train of thought. Any thoughts on the subject greatly appreciated. What is the probability of the original water pump getting to 250k?

Also, knowing that I want to keep this car to 250k, what other things should be replaced while I'm in there?

Any thoughts about the "tightening of the crank bolt" would be greatly appreciated. How do you ensure that it is properly torqued?
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top