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Hey guys,

New to this forum however I've used many articles to help me fix many issues.

I have a 02 SVT that I just replaced the negative battery connector, hooked everything back up and now my svt won't even attempt to start. Checked the fuses and everything looks good. Along the line of work one of the 8mm bolts in the fender well sheared off so I drilled a hole and put a bolt with a locknut on it.

Thought the issue might have been related to my clutch position switch so I put a wire between the two contacts on the plug and still have nothing. I can jump the starter by touching the wire that come up by the coil pack and the motor turns over.

I just noticed this morning that I don't hear the fuel pump kick on when I try to start it.

If there is anything you can give me that would help I would be grateful.

thanks.
Ben
 

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the fuel pump relays on these like to fail change it out with ur brights relay and see if that works. also did you make sure you got your groung hooked up and tightened down?
 

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Ok , you have either missed hooking up one of the small wires that go to the fender ( ecu ground) blown one of the odd looking black fuses in the under hood fuse box or set the PATS

DO NOT test the black fuses swap thm with key off and see if the ------ goes off and your reading comes back

The small wire I dont remember the color will set the ------ if not connected to a ground

If you have set the PATS then you will have to have the Focus towed to Ford for a ECU reset , make sure you take both keys , if you do not have both keys then they can do it with just one key and will try to make you buy another one but it isnt needed

I set the PATS on a Focus one day by connecting a fender ground and I didnt do it quickly and the ground connected then disconnected then connected then disconnected several times this will set the PATS

Tom
 

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Is there a definite way to tell if I set the PATS?

-Ben
I am not doubting Tom, but I have never heard of "setting PATS"... which then requires Ford to reset/reprogram the PCM??? OK, but that is new news for me.

When you drilled the new hole in the fender-well, did you prep, sand-down the mating area (remove the paint) so the terminal lug has good metal -to- metal contact?

Disconnect the car battery (negative cable) for 15 minutes. Reconnect and try to start car.

Do you have 2 keys that did start the car, 2 PATS keys, prior to this problem?

Is the PATS status LED (aka PATS light) in the dash blinking (normal) while the car is sitting without a key in it?

When turning key to ON, does the PATS light turn off -or- what does it do? PATS light turning off when key advanced to On = happy car.

The black fuses Tom mentioned are actually a Diode. PCM Power Diode, aka Power Hold Relay Diode. The other one is for the engine cooling fans I think. If that PCM Diode is fried = no start and dashes in the odometer.

The new hole you drilled and connected the ground cable to is a common ground to most all systems, including the PCM and the Power Hold Relay. For some reason the PCM is extra sensitive that THIS ground connection be very healthy. Other systems using this same shared ground might work perfectly, but the PCM and THIS ground connection have a long history of causing the PCM to complain and shows itself as dashes in the odometer. On the opposite end of this ground cable; the connection on the negative terminal of the battery is equally important.

You must also ensure the ground cable from the engine/trans block has a good connection to the Bat negative terminal: and/or some people add an extra engine ground cable that connects directly onto the car frame/chassis.
 

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Check the Engine Management fuse (a big 20A one in the engine compartment fuse box). This can blow if there are issues with the radio interference capacitor. See elsewhere on this forum. A quick test of that is to just unplug the capacitor (on passenger side in engine compartment).
In my case someone had just cut the capacitor out leaving bare wires dangling and I connected the dangling wires thinking they just went directly to ground! Woops, no car start, --- on the display, Key light flashing, OBD reader not able to connect to PCM. And the Engine Management fuse would blow every time the key was turned on.
 

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^^^^ Careful, you resurrected a thread from 2014 - and gave advice that fits a duratec engine NOT the SVT type this thread was started for.
 

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^^^^ Careful, you resurrected a thread from 2014 - and gave advice that fits a duratec engine NOT the SVT type this thread was started for.
Have to xD


Ok , you have either missed hooking up one of the small wires that go to the fender ( ecu ground) blown one of the odd looking black fuses in the under hood fuse box or set the PATS

DO NOT test the black fuses swap thm with key off and see if the ------ goes off and your reading comes back

The small wire I dont remember the color will set the ------ if not connected to a ground

If you have set the PATS then you will have to have the Focus towed to Ford for a ECU reset , make sure you take both keys , if you do not have both keys then they can do it with just one key and will try to make you buy another one but it isnt needed

I set the PATS on a Focus one day by connecting a fender ground and I didnt do it quickly and the ground connected then disconnected then connected then disconnected several times this will set the PATS

Tom
Not all focus's run to the chassis 2 of my wagons are on the battery one is on the fender, never touched, direct from ford i actually took a video of it to help a fellow member fix his no start issue, grins
2001 Early Feb Build on Chassis
2001 Late Feb Build on Battery
2002 Late Dec Build on Battery

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zld7UWRVd60
 

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Old Phart
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Oh geez, another to the rescue of the 2014 problem.

Tom couldn't remember the wire color offhand, but he was referring to the small ground wire from battery to HARNESS (blk/or on most) that is for the PCM. He's also mentioning the power side of that by talking about the black diodes in the underhood fuse box.
 

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Oh geez, another to the rescue of the 2014 problem.

Tom couldn't remember the wire color offhand, but he was referring to the small ground wire from battery to HARNESS (blk/or on most) that is for the PCM. He's also mentioning the power side of that by talking about the black diodes in the underhood fuse box.
oh i know xD but that exact wire is on all my cars but they are from the factory in 2 spots [dunno] either direct to ground lug on the battery or to the chassis... why i dont know [chair]
 

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Old Phart
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Direct to battery ground terminal is correct.

Running to the inner fender location where the small ground from the battery connects to the chassis adds ANOTHER failure point where the connection may be poor.
 

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Direct to battery ground terminal is correct.

Running to the inner fender location where the small ground from the battery connects to the chassis adds ANOTHER failure point where the connection may be poor.
hey i never placed them there i just leave them be they are all well sealed and protected as all the grounds on my car get a nice dose of contact sealer/corrosion inhibitor the same junk i use on my battery terminals xD
the only spot i have to keep replacing is the ground strap on the zetecs from the upper right eyelet to the chassis as that just vibrates itself into breaking the strands or being peckered to death from sand/salt slung around by the belt
 

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Old Phart
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Can't say who put it there on one of your cars, but the factory could have saved $ by running it direct to the chassis from the PCM.

Spending the extra to add the wire all the way through the harness to the battery area it's better to make the final connection there (battery) IMHO. Not that it can't work otherwise as your one connected differently proves once again.
 
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