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Old 08-07-2017, 06:01 PM   #11
Thats What She Said
 
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Thanks, The Ball Joint is since I am running the C-F-M Control Arms I don't use a traditional ball joint so the approach to extend may not work or have to be tweaked. But understanding the idea and how its accomplished would still be good as I can figure out how to do that with the Heim end joint.

a LSD is very much on the list of things to get. I will keep that in mind and watch and feel out how things go.

The jerking could brake CV joints on the shafts and the diff if done repetitive and violently enough.
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Old 08-08-2017, 09:18 PM   #12
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Sounds like you are on your way in regards to the suspension set up. I'm more comfortable running a big rear bar and no front bar. Yea I lift the inside rear and never feel it, get lots of comments from those following. And when I tell them it's an independent rear then they really look shocked. I run big spring rates rear, 32mm barone bar adjustable. I have poly bushings all around. The failures I have experienced were axles, simple fix and easy to carry a spare. Alternator has become an item to keep watch on as we turn up the rpms. Seems they overheat as the air flow where mounted causes a tremendous heat soak. Actually carry a spare belt, we run that silly number nobody carries if you have gone ac delete. Electric items seem to be playing an issue now, map sensor recently failed, coil connections can fail, carry a repair kit. Axle nuts, check after every session, and if you remove for any reason I never reuse them if they have been off the car three times. We have turned off the computer operating signal for fan engagement. We run a switch for both fans. We run the factory twin setup. Tried an aftermarket and went back, factory did a great job. Oh and the most unbelievable one. The inertia switch. Yes they go bad and it's a bitch to diagnose. If it's a race car just remove it.
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Old 08-09-2017, 07:42 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magus2727 View Post
Thanks, The Ball Joint is since I am running the C-F-M Control Arms I don't use a traditional ball joint so the approach to extend may not work or have to be tweaked. But understanding the idea and how its accomplished would still be good as I can figure out how to do that with the Heim end joint.

a LSD is very much on the list of things to get. I will keep that in mind and watch and feel out how things go.

The jerking could brake CV joints on the shafts and the diff if done repetitive and violently enough.
Figure out the stud length after its thru the heim joint, then use a spacer between the spindle & arm & having enough thread for the nut or 2 jam nuts.
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Old 08-09-2017, 07:57 AM   #14
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Thanks for the info. Before I do any of that I need to get the joint unstuck in the tube body. I think I just need to get a good length of pipe and rotate it around in the joint. This is Off Topic but would that damage the Heim joint at all? There is no where else to really grip on the body of the joint.
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Old 08-09-2017, 08:12 AM   #15
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Sounds like you are on your way in regards to the suspension set up. I'm more comfortable running a big rear bar and no front bar. Yea I lift the inside rear and never feel it, get lots of comments from those following. And when I tell them it's an independent rear then they really look shocked. I run big spring rates rear, 32mm barone bar adjustable. I have poly bushings all around. The failures I have experienced were axles, simple fix and easy to carry a spare. Alternator has become an item to keep watch on as we turn up the rpms. Seems they overheat as the air flow where mounted causes a tremendous heat soak. Actually carry a spare belt, we run that silly number nobody carries if you have gone ac delete. Electric items seem to be playing an issue now, map sensor recently failed, coil connections can fail, carry a repair kit. Axle nuts, check after every session, and if you remove for any reason I never reuse them if they have been off the car three times. We have turned off the computer operating signal for fan engagement. We run a switch for both fans. We run the factory twin setup. Tried an aftermarket and went back, factory did a great job. Oh and the most unbelievable one. The inertia switch. Yes they go bad and it's a bitch to diagnose. If it's a race car just remove it.
Like to have you expound on the following:

Axles - How did they fail? CV joints just go bad? race bearing on the passenger side go out? Axle nut pop off? CV boot got torn? Do you now service them now on a regular basis of replace every 2 seasons or do you just carry a spare for each side?

Alternator - How many have you had fail? Any high rpm alternators out there for the Focus? If allowed in your class would hood vents or ducting likely help?

Belt - I am running a AC compressor at the current moment but that will likely be gone at some point in the next year or two once I am 100% sure my SVT which will be my DD will not need week + long repairs. Do you inspect belt just every weekend and replace as needed? Part of a standard routine or replace of every season?

Axle Nuts - I wish Ford still made their nice axle nuts. I found some at the junk yard on a vehicle that appeared to have all stock parts still (no replacements) so have been used once. I like the stacked design. Seems a lot stronger and less prone to rounding the nut. DO you TQ to stock spec still? or higher? What TQ bar do you use that works to the 190'ish ft-lbs?

Cooling - Do you run a glycol based coolant? I believe my track rules say no glycol due to clean up and damage to the racing surface. For the Fans do you run with both on full speed at all times or do you then now monitor your temps and as racing switch on fans? I can see how the switches allow for using the fans at full speed when you have no AC now, when parked and turned off and want to keep airflow, and to force high speed instead of low speed. Did you do this to lower engine temps on average? find you were having "spikes" in your temp with the ECU controlling?

Electronics - Those are the hard gremlins to always work out. with the inertia switch removed (need to look at the schematic) that also means airbags don't work right (one in the same switch?) right now I still have the factory steering wheel and have driver and passenger front airbags. at some point the dash will likely be removed and a new steering wheel will be used and will no have that. Wanting to make sure I know the operational state if the inertia switch is unplugged. That just works the fuel cut off?

Thanks for all the help and feedback!
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Old 08-10-2017, 10:30 PM   #16
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Ok let's see, first notes on every repair and every failure is in a book that stays in the tool box. The axles, two had boots fail, two due to hub failure which sheared the axle stub. We remove both axles and repack both ends with syn grease, redline or what's around. We then reclamp the boot or replace. We start with empi axles. Have had great success, not everyone does but we repack a brand new axle before its installed. And we carry spares for both sides. Alternator seem to be time related for us like every year we go thru one. Then we had a rash of bad units every other race. So which one, napa, nope, autozone, nope, advance nope. We have gone thru almost everyone's, motorcraft has been better than most then we went thru two in one month. So the failures, one shattered the case which was pretty amazing. Two had voltage regulators fail, and one caught fire when tire snot got caught around it and boy that was a pretty sight. Preventive maintance include, make sure no debri is ever on it. Always check belt tension, which then says look at the tensioner and its mounts. Get a gauge, first clue it's failing. It's the info u must have, oh I always carry a spare. The mount on the Duratec for the alt is done with two studs and one bolt. We replace the bolt with another stud, we shorten all three and put on the nuts. Allows for easier removal and service. The belt we carry a spare and check before every event. Axle nuts I have a stash and I just use the guide that we toss after three on/off events. We started that before the super hub and stayed with it. I have a snap on torque wrench, 250 is what we go for. Water, actually distilled water, water wetter that's what we have been using. We run the fans in the pits, and not until temp hits 190, when racing not until 210. One important feature which tom preaches is seal off the radiator as well as u can. It make a significant difference. Also look at where your air intake is. The Duratec we run the cold air intake down to the left of the radiator, and we isolate the intake filter away from the radiator. No air bags, race car, our inertia switch was removed after spending a fortune chasing ghosts of problems. It doesn't belong on a race car, a dual use car I understand but strictly race car, it's outta there. The switch just works the fuel pump. It sense motion and which end is up :). I speak from experience.
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Old 08-12-2017, 08:04 PM   #17
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For what it is worth, I wouldn't run aftermarket front control arms. I picked up a set from Dominic (Dominant Engineering) that failed on their second session at the track. As in the left front arm became a two piece arm, letting the wheel flop about in the wheel well.
They weren't dominant and they definitely weren't engineered.
Still waiting for the refund check that was promised 8 years ago.

I've had failures of the CFM SVT cat pipe, as has the maker of the SuperHubs. It cracked in two after the cat and I found the the convertor substrate missing as well, in under a year of use.
The Ford one went back on and 40k miles later, 100k miles total, it is still intact and working.
One of CFM's fancy aluminum idler pulleys made it six months before failing on my daily driver. The other one I had bought for the track car went straight into the recycling bin.
CFM's adjustable shifter, no matter how tight the set screws were, or the amount of Loctite applied, it would drop to the lowest setting when it felt like it.
That's three for three on the the failure front for CFM made products.
Now how do you feel about trusting a loaded suspension piece from them?

Now off the soapbox and on to track spares.

The following is based on running three different SVT's on track from 2004 till the present.
A PWSC SVT running Nitto NT01's, the dedicated track car. (Probably 10k to 12k in track miles, 30k in street miles to and from the track.)
A stock SVT running NT01's, the daily driver seeing three or four days a year on track.
A JRSC SVT running NT01's, the predecessor to the PWSC track car.

On the dedicated PWSC track car, front bearings lasted about eighteen months before failing.
Probably 15 to 20 track days, plus mileage to the track.
I believe brake heat cooks the grease, as each failed bearing had grease that looked like dried black paste. I could never come up with proper brake ducting that would last, so bearing replacement became the norm.

Note: Do not let the bearing completely fail, as once the bearing starts wobbling, it will ruin a SuperHub.
"I'll just torque that nut and drive it 400 miles home, then replace the bearing. What could it hurt?"

Check the torque when cold before each track day. The torque wrench should click and not move. If the torque wrench moves then clicks, replace the bearings.
Each time my bearings failed, the nut was actually loose after checking the torque that morning before going on track.
I usually discovered the issue when prepping the car before the next event and never noticed anything unusual when driving the car home with a failing front bearing.
Look for any grease stains radiating from the hub nut, a sure sign the grease is done and the bearings are soon to follow or already done.

I always carried spare loaded front knuckles, so if a bearing went bad on a trip, it could be swapped out in a half an hour or so at the track.
Once I got back to the shop, a new bearing was pressed in and the old knuckle went back into the spares bin.

Rear bearings seemed to burn up quicker and I began to replace them before each season. Iíve had them fail at AMP, Road America and NJMP.
The bearing that failed at Road America let go after the Kink and by the time I got back to the paddock, it had ruined the spindle, spindle nut, ABS sensor and caliper mounting bracket.
I had it all replaced before the next session along with the other sides rear hub for insurance.

My track spares consisted of:


Loaded front knuckles with nuts (Wasted sessions at Mosport purchasing a front hub, bearing and labor to press at a local Ford dealer 25 miles away $$$, when a new Motorcraft hub sheared off in turn one. Cue the creation of the SuperHub.)

Both half shafts (Wasted a half a day at the track, tracking down a SVT right half shaft at an AMP event after a new half shaft from EMPI, melted down the outer CV joint.)

Rear spindles, hub, caliper bracket, ABS sensor and nuts (See Road America issue above.)

All four brake calipers (Never had to use one.)

Brake pads front and rear (Have to get every last bit of Cobalt Friction pads, they are not cheap.)

Rotors front and rear (Heat checks turned to cracks on the front rotors at Road Atlanta.)

Serpentine idler pulley (One went bad on a JRSC SVT I had, missed sessions at Watkins Glen getting a replacement at the local Carquest or NAPA.)

Serpentine belt tensioner (You never know when they decide to fail.)

Serpentine belt (Powerworks cars have an odd length belt not commonly stocked at parts stores.)

Supercharger heat exchanger pump (Replaced at Mid Ohio after five years of track duty. It is not an off the shelf part.)

Front and rear Motorcraft O2 sensors (Sensors fail at the most inopportune times.)

Spark plugs pre gapped for the Powerworks

Assorted fuses and relays pulled from SVTs at the Pick-N-Pull

Specialty Track Tools consisted of:

Dust cap removal tool (Vim Tools V216 Hub and Dust Cap Plier) Have you priced a new Focus dust cap?

32mm and 30mm sockets for the front and rear spindle/axle nuts

Ball Joint Separator (Harbor Freight #99849 or equivalent)

Tie Rod Puller (Harbor Freight #62708 or equivalent)

3 Jaw Puller to push the half shaft from the front hub (Harbor Freight #69224 or equivalent)
Note that no hammers are needed in removing the front knuckle when using the three tools listed above. So no possibility of damaged threads or CV joints. The exception being separating the knuckle from the strut body, they often need a little persuasion.

Rear disc brake service tool (Harbor Freight #63264 or equivalent)

Front disc brake piston spreader (Harbor Freight #68973 or equivalent)

QuickJack BL5000SLX (5000lb only because all my track friends have late model Mustangs at or above 3500lbs)
This is one of the most useful tools at the track. Especially when you have to swap street and track tires at each event. Set it up at the beginning of the event, takes about ~ 5 minutes and you can get the car 2 feet in the air in ~1 minute afterwards.
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Old 08-12-2017, 08:15 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magus2727 View Post
Like to have you expound on the following:


Axle Nuts - DO you TQ to stock spec still? or higher? What TQ bar do you use that works to the 190'ish ft-lbs?
233 ft-lb front Ford spec
173 ft-lb rear Ford spec
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Old 08-12-2017, 11:46 PM   #19
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Ok just arrived home after two days at Charlotte motor speedway, the Rovol which the NASCAR boys will be using next sept. So now we had two cars that had two new for us failures. Power steering on both cars. The STL car we have never screwed with the ps pump, the ITA car had a new pump put in one month ago. So both cars puked all the fluid out. Weird, both could be the track, naw I don't believe it. Oh we entered 4 races and one enduro under the lights at cms. So 3 second places and one 4 th. And 1st in the enduro. All in all dam good weekend with one day left for honey do's.
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